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Climbing to new hights
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ktownclimber


Apr 23, 2002, 8:19 AM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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Climbing to new hights
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I've spent all of last summer climbing hard. My current climbing partner is learning and willing/able to follow me up anything. I just can't seem to get past leading 5.9's and the odd 5.10. Any suggestions for improving my skills/strength/technique to get over this hurdle? Is bouldering the answer?


[ This Message was edited by: ktownclimber on 2002-04-23 08:20 ]


radistrad


Apr 23, 2002, 8:23 AM
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Top rope some harder climbs, then you can per place your pro and "pink" point the climb.
Pratice pratice pratice.
One of the hardest things to learn is to climb on your feet. Watch your feet until they are on their hold. Watch each foot and push hard with your legs. You will also find that "baby steps" will get you through some hard problems. When I crack climb, I reach and step as high as possible, sometimes reaching through the crux.


vaness


Apr 23, 2002, 8:49 AM
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climb more... its the most effective way to get better
give it time


jt512


Apr 23, 2002, 9:17 AM
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Bouldering is probably not the answer at the 5.10- level. Bouldering builds power, and power is rarely the limiting factor on routes of this grade. Most often, the "5.10 barrier" is broken by improving technique, and maybe by improving endurance. Both get better with practice.

How often do you climb? If it is less than 3 days a week, your progress will be slow. Can you team up at least some of the time with climbers who are better than you? If so, your technique will improve much faster.

-Jay


killclimbz


Apr 23, 2002, 9:28 AM
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Work your routes. Find that odd 5.10 that you struggle up. One that you can climb, but not without taking a fall or hanging. Work over and over again on the lead until you redpoint it. This will allow you to work out your feet, hands, and body position in general.
It may sound a little boring to do the same route over and over again, but the experience you will gain is immeasurable. Once you succeed move on to another route.
If you can find a partner who is a better climber than you, have them drag you up some stuff that you usually wouldn't attempt.
I have to agree with both JT and Radistrad that technique is probably what you need to work on. Usually this boils down to footwork at this level. Practice using your feet to remove as much weight as possible off of your arms. Try to find rests and use them, etc. Practice, practice, practice...


ktownclimber


Apr 23, 2002, 4:52 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I'll try to pink point some more 5.10's and really focus on the foot work!



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