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coclimber26
Aug 16, 2003, 1:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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Going through 3 guidebooks for the GoG, all 3 are different on the lower toprope area of the east face of keyhole rock. The routes in question are angel dust, rocket dust, pig dust and suprise. Most of the pitons from the first ascents have disapeared. There is one promenant route with 2 pitons and a bolt that apears to be angel dust 5.10b. Bob D'Antonio's falcon guide for the area says the next route to the right is pig dust 5.11d but after climbing it, it feels like suprise 5.8. The next route further right he has as rocket dust 5.10b but another guide has sloping shelves 5.7. I agree with the 5.7 but I'm wondering where the other two routes are? Anyone with knowledge please reply..
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dylanscott
May 19, 2004, 4:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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I know where you're talking about. I had the same confusion as you. I thought I was climbing a 5.10b and zipped right up it. I agree it seems more like a 5.8. I don't know if they are the right climbs or not. I know this doesn't help you any, but thought I'd let you know that you're not alone!
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coclimber26
May 19, 2004, 4:51 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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most of the routes that used to have pitons don't anymore so I use one of the only routes that has bolts. In the center of the wall is a route with two bolts and a piton and is either rocket dust or angel dust? It felt like a .10- I can see a lone high piton 15ft. to the left and assume that it is the .11 in the guidebook (looked harder). To the right of angel dust are some ledges that are around .8...total confusion.
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