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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 2:58 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks to Eric horst and all of his helpers that have done an amazing job with bubba City. The new hardware and trails are fantastic!! great job, keep up the great work at the NRG!
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troutboy
Jun 1, 2004, 3:05 PM
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And buy the Bubba City guide book direct from Eric to help defray costs ! TS
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j_ung
Jun 1, 2004, 3:51 PM
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Other than a few bolted cracks, I'll second that. Those guys really put in a lot of effort.
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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 3:56 PM
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In reply to: Other than a few bolted cracks, I'll second that. Those guys really put in a lot of effort. "A few"? LOL . . . most of the "new" climbs we got on this weekend were definitely gear friendly. But I think part of the idea with Bubba was to make it more user friendly because it saw so little traffic and yet had so much potential. My understanding is that anything that was retrobolted was done either by the FA'ist or with their approval. If nothing eelse, the replacement of shuts and anchors was a marvelous job. BTW- anyone headed there . . you MUST get on Michelin Man . . . an absolutely superb climb . .. now one of my favorites anywhere in the gorge.
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send513
Jun 1, 2004, 4:08 PM
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did ya send??? (and which one, the new or the old version!)
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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 4:11 PM
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In reply to: did ya send??? (and which one, the new or the old version!) CHUFFER!!!! I think the new ending is better than the old . .. I could care less about the difference in grade . . . finishing the new way (breaking left at 6th bolt) is more consistent with the rest of the climb and still requires a committing crux section!
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send513
Jun 1, 2004, 4:14 PM
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why am I a chuffer??? I wanted to know if you sent... I haven't been on it, but think it looks cool... I just got my butt handed to me on 11b this weekend, sure not up for anything harder!
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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 4:19 PM
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Just givin' you a hard time Karin! I did not get the onsight - and managed to tweak my left hand ring finger so I could not get another attempt in on sat. It is a stellar line, classic NRG crimps and long reaches.
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kinslerar
Jun 1, 2004, 4:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2004
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What are the highlights of Bubba? How's the approach? I've been to the NRG quite a bit but usually spend most my time at Summersville, Endless, or Bridge Area. Thanks for the info.
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kimmyt
Jun 1, 2004, 4:50 PM
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sweet...I'm heading there in June, I'm so psyched! K.
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j_ung
Jun 1, 2004, 5:03 PM
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You'll love it, Kimmyt. Kinslerar, the approach is cake. What to hit depends on how hard you want to climb, but the rock quality is, for the most part, as good as many of the other areas. The walls tend to be a bit shorter, however. Definitely stop by the shop and pick up the Bubba book. You won't be sorry.
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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 5:18 PM
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In reply to: What are the highlights of Bubba? How's the approach? I've been to the NRG quite a bit but usually spend most my time at Summersville, Endless, or Bridge Area. Thanks for the info. The approach has been greatly improved. There are now multiple acces points that allow you to avoid a lengthy traverse along the base of the cliffs Essentially you can drop in to the cliffs at numerous locations and the descents do not really invovle any technical climbing. The original trail has also been vastly improved. Bubba is likely to seen a bit of a boom due to the addition of many easy and moderate sport routes - now there are routes bolted down to 5.5 and it is one of the few areas with numerous sport climbs 5.9 and down. But, Bubba also boast a plethora of 5.11's and 5.12's. I found that the ratings were a little inconsistent, but generally the ratings are just slightly stiffer than other areas of the New.
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jackmguirk
Jun 1, 2004, 5:25 PM
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If you go back there, a climb that I think is as good as Michelin Man is Feng Shui. I think it was near where all the french stuff is. A recommendation though if you do the route. stick clip the 2nd bolt and traverse in from the left, the rock at the very bottom is way shitty, but the rest of the route is great, and quite weird. Jay
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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 5:30 PM
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Cool. i will check it out. I was hoping to get on a few routes (such as Tongulation and Likme), but they were wet. In fact, a lot was still wet from all of the rain that fell the previous week. Oh well . . good to have more things to try when I am back in shape.
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send513
Jun 1, 2004, 7:40 PM
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I have done Tongulation... I would consider it 11c and not 11a, but whatever, its a fabulous route!! Other things to do at Bubba- >> Exobubba (though its rather 'sporty') >> Skinhead Grin >> So Much Freaking Fun >> Imaculate Combustion >> Inconsistent Irony >> Sheer Energy (or is it Smore Energy, I get them confused!) >> Stellar Idea >> Face it Bubba (though its mixed) The aretes next to Skinhead Grin look SUPERB and actually so does Reaches From Hell which I am going to do just because I think it will be funny! So much to do! :-)
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leaverbiner
Jun 1, 2004, 7:42 PM
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In reply to: I have done Tongulation... I would consider it 11c and not 11a, but whatever, its a fabulous route!! Other things to do at Bubba- >> Exobubba (though its rather 'sporty') >> Skinhead Grin >> So Much Freaking Fun >> Imaculate Combustion >> Inconsistent Irony >> Sheer Energy (or is it Smore Energy, I get them confused!) >> Stellar Idea >> Face it Bubba (though its mixed) The aretes next to Skinhead Grin look SUPERB and actually so does Reaches From Hell which I am going to do just because I think it will be funny! So much to do! :-) S'More Energy is at Endless - I believe.
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j_ung
Jun 1, 2004, 7:45 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: I have done Tongulation... I would consider it 11c and not 11a, but whatever, its a fabulous route!! Other things to do at Bubba- >> Exobubba (though its rather 'sporty') >> Skinhead Grin >> So Much Freaking Fun >> Imaculate Combustion >> Inconsistent Irony >> Sheer Energy (or is it Smore Energy, I get them confused!) >> Stellar Idea >> Face it Bubba (though its mixed) The aretes next to Skinhead Grin look SUPERB and actually so does Reaches From Hell which I am going to do just because I think it will be funny! So much to do! :-) S'More Energy is at Endless - I believe. Yah, Sheer Energy is at Central Bubba. Fine route. So's Stellar Idea, though I wish it were longer.
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send513
Jun 1, 2004, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2002
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whatever... sheer or s'more, they are both good to do :-)
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mccallew
Jun 2, 2004, 2:56 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2004
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"I haven't done it myself, so take this with a grain of salt, but word on my end of the street is that Tongulation is the sandbag of the century. I guess it goes along with what you were saying about ratings being a little inconsistent." Tongulation IS 11c or so if you do it the way Rico put it up... staright up. But, Lynn Hill did a dogleg right a bolt or so below the roof bringing the grade down to 11a. Great route!
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