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Going the extra inch...
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ilookfunnyinrolleduppants


Apr 25, 2002, 3:29 PM
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Going the extra inch...
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Just wondering if any of you out there have some suggestions for reaching and stretching for handholds and such.

I dunno about anyone else, but I get pretty frustrated when theres a hold just inches out of my reach and no matter how much I claw and stretch for it, I always seem to be just a little short.

Thanks.


daisuke


Apr 25, 2002, 3:46 PM
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That's where you have to deadpoint or dyno, also try doing a tip toe reach, it may or may not be possible and hurts like hell but it's worked for me at times
and I literally mean stand on the tips of your toes to go for it not just raised hell


dustinap
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Apr 25, 2002, 3:53 PM
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How tall are you? If you're 6'6 I don't want to hear about it.

If you're talking about indoors, doing a deadpoint, dyno or just standing up all the way. Many people DO NOT realize they aren't standing up all the way when they could be and dyno instead.

If you're talking outside when you're jammed in cracks, my best advice is that if you have a good jam move your feet up high, then pull in.


crackaddict


Apr 25, 2002, 4:02 PM
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Most of the time when the hold is out of reach.
I have to check my feet.
Sometimes they are not in the right spot.
And all it take is just some re-adjustment or some smearing really helps me get to that hold.
Deadpointing helps a lot if my feet don't do the trick.
I rarley do any dynoing on routes. Mostly on boulders or at the gym. I guess I just have'nt been on enough routes that require it.

Rockitup!


phreakdigital


Apr 25, 2002, 4:34 PM
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What exactly is deadpointing?


clmbng_addict


Apr 25, 2002, 5:45 PM
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Sup Kurt, glad to see you finally registered! I assume your question is general, but i think i know of one reach in particular you're thinking of (for the rest of you, it's a pretty far reach on a pumpy, slightly overhanging crag w/ a lot of footholds, but no real handholds at this one point).

The only thing i have to add to what people have already said about deadpointing, lunging, and dynoing is look for intermediate handholds--ones that you can't stay on for more than a second or two, but can use to help move your body up the wall quickly. Get your feet up as high and as comfortable as possible, stay into the rock and see if you can find any handholds to use for a short moment while you move up to the better hold. Push w/ your legs as much as you can rather than pull w/ your arms--your arms should mainly just be holding you into the rock while you stand up. If you don't know what i mean, i'll see if i can show you next time we go to 50 foot, although i'm still kind of sketchy w/ this type of move.
Later man.

phreakdigital--somebody please correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe deadpointing is when you make like a lunge for a move and then grab it right at the peak of your motion, when you stop and are about to come back down.


miagi


Apr 25, 2002, 9:34 PM
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Ways to get that extra inch:
1. Dyno it if the hold is big enough for you to hold on to.
2. Dead point it. Like a dyno, but your body doesnt leave the rock. You usually keep a hand and foot on the rock while your other arm swings up for the hold.
3. Bump off intermediate holds - If the hold your looking for is too small to dyno, look for smaller holds inbetween, and "tic tac" your way up the little holds to the big one. They are somewhat like small deadpoints in a row.
4. Stretch your legs or hands to a different hold to raise you up lol
5. Front point - Stand on your toes
6. More advanced and not used by many is the figure 4 move. Hard to explain but if you look it up on google you will find it


qacwac


Apr 25, 2002, 10:02 PM
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If the hand holds are good enough, smear with both feet. Step about halfway up with one foot, then the other. Stand up a bit, and reach for it.

Also look for footholds way off to the side. If they're off to the side and higher up then you can maybe twist reach to it.



ponyryan


Apr 26, 2002, 3:34 PM
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A couple of things that work for me:

On one course in my gym I can't reach the hold without turning my hip towards the wall and putting my foot pigeon toed on the wall (outside of one foot against the wall) That puts my hips closer to the wall allowing my body to reach that much higher.

Along that line, you can try to get your hips closer to the wall. This straightening of your midsection will give you an extra inch or two, or maybe more, depending on your current technique.

One more idea is to put get your opposite foot under you (if you're reaching with your right hand, put your left foot on the hold most under you, if possible) Experiment with moving your feet around, turning them and moving them. Each person has idea of how they do it, so develop your own.

That's my theory on reaching that much further (besides the previously mentioned techniques like dyno, redpointing....)


maculated


Apr 26, 2002, 3:44 PM
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Think about the ways you can extend yourself. I'm always the shortest one in my group climbing, and sometimes there just aren't holds with feet that will get me up. One method I use often is side pulling and laybacks. I get myself suspended that way and can stand up to a new hold. Also, leaning backward toward a hold extends your reach.


jgorris


Apr 26, 2002, 5:51 PM
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Simply backstepping on vertical or steeper will get you and inch or more.
It is goofy to dyno or deadpoint a move on lead which can be done statically and more efficiently by backstepping.

[ This Message was edited by: jgorris on 2002-04-26 18:02 ]


maddie


Apr 26, 2002, 6:53 PM
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Try twisting your body! To prove this therory; stand facing a wall and put one arm up on the wall... then, do the same thing but twist your body out towards your you arm. As you will notice a couple of inches are gained by doing this simple move!


paintinhaler


Apr 26, 2002, 7:09 PM
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dropknee


clam


Apr 26, 2002, 7:33 PM
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clmbng_addict, you're right about the deadpoint. Here's how John Long describes it. "...the climber exploits the moment of weightlessness that occurs at the apex of the leap - the dead point - to grab the hold with accuracy." How to Rock Climb, p. 38.
You may wind up looking like this when you try a deadpoint


jdcox_9


Apr 26, 2002, 8:06 PM
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My method for gaining inches is three-fold:


#1 Build a time machine and travel back to the 'Dark Ages"

#2 Commit a crime that is punishable by torture in the 'RACK' *make sure to get caught commiting the crime*

#3 Travel back to today and climb your route utilizing the extra inches

Alternate #3 Travel back to three years before you started climbing, and start climbing then. That way you get three more years to gain experience.




andrewokc


Apr 26, 2002, 9:37 PM
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"6. More advanced and not used by many is the figure 4 move. Hard to explain but if you look it up on google you will find it "

no way in hell will you ever need a figure four move on a rock climb. instead you - campus or dyno or deadpoint or smear up or heel hook or something else but dude, your never gonna need it. its supreme use is ICE CLIMBING, wher you cant dyno, dead point (that much) or campus.


qacwac


Apr 26, 2002, 9:47 PM
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To say that you will never use a figure 4 on rock is a bit premature to me. If the hold you're going for is too small to grab on a dyno or deadpoint then a figure 4 may be the best move.


jt512


Apr 27, 2002, 10:53 AM
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Try moving your feet up!

-Jay


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