|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 1:53 AM
Post #1 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
My wife and I are looking to leave the furnace known as San Antonio, TX, and head out west to Clark Canyon for SINGLE PITCH SPORT CLIMBING. She climbs 5.9 and I climb 5.11.
We need trip beta!
1) I am having a hard time finding downloadable topos of the climbs/layout of the place. We want to get there and know where to go. Any suggestions? WE NEED MAPS! Free ones (internet), preferably.
2) Where is the BEST/scenic/private/closest camping to Clark Canyon, and is there a place to shower?
3) Are pets allowed?
4) How much does stuff (fees, parking, etc.) cost?
Can you help a Texan out?
Thank you in advance!
CK
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Jun 3, 2004, 2:04 AM
Post #2 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
In reply to: My wife and I are looking to leave the furnace known as San Antonio, TX, and head out west to Clark Canyon for SINGLE PITCH SPORT CLIMBING. She climbs 5.9 and I climb 5.11. We need trip beta! 1) I am having a hard time finding downloadable topos of the climbs/layout of the place. We want to get there and know where to go. Any suggestions? WE NEED MAPS! Free ones (internet), preferably. 2) Where is the BEST/scenic/private/closest camping to Clark Canyon, and is there a place to shower? 3) Are pets allowed? 4) How much does stuff (fees, parking, etc.) cost?
1) pm me a email address and I will send a pdf file with one of the area topos and good driving directions
2) camp in the meadow 10 minutes before the crag. There are free hotsprings all over place.
3) no problem
4) free as can be
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jun 3, 2004, 2:16 AM
Post #3 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
be warned that Clark Cyn is good for about 1 day no matter how hard or easy you climb, by no means is this a destination crag, in fact there is no summer sport crag in Cali that fits that description, you might get lucky with Owens but I doubt it, it was 96 degrees there today, try Maple or Colorado instead
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 2:16 AM
Post #4 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
Hey alpnclmbr1, check your inbox for my email address!
My wife and I are both noobs; I started rock climbing a few months ago, have climbed with experienced climbers, and have advanced rapidly.
Are we making the right decision in Clark Canyon?
Thanks!
CK
Anyone else have input?
|
|
|
|
|
therealdeal
Jun 3, 2004, 2:22 AM
Post #5 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2002
Posts: 250
|
Are you talking about Clark Canyon, by Mammoth Lakes, CA? If so, save yourself the disappointment. It is a very beautiful place, and the climbing is fun...but there really is only one or two days of good climbing.
The routes are short and fun on little pockets. Its kinda sharp.
It is national forest, camping is free and primitive. Pets are fine.
If you have more than a couple of days you will likely become bored...but of course, the East Side has limitless diversions. However, if it is really SINGLE PITCH SPORT ROUTES that you desire (and not amazing bouldering, corn skiing, alpine granite, natural hot springs, etc) then there are far superior locales than Mammoth.
If you persisit, then check out the Bear Crag, the Dike Wall and Pine Creek Canyon...
If you want tips on some REAL sport climbing areas that will be suitable for you as well as your better half...just ask.
Have a good trip...
Would you like some tips on other crags in the west that may hold more than a passing interest?
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 2:25 AM
Post #6 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
In reply to: be warned that Clark Cyn is good for about 1 day no matter how hard or easy you climb, by no means is this a destination crag, in fact there is no summer sport crag in Cali that fits that description, you might get lucky with Owens but I doubt it, it was 96 degrees there today, try Maple or Colorado instead
Interesting comments...what is so bad about Clark Canyon?
I asked (in another forum) where a good single pitch sport climb spot was and this place was mentioned more than once and the weather there is perfect (it was 104 here the other day!).
Why is Clark Canyon only "good for one day?" I've been climbing the same local crag here in San Antonio, TX for two months straight almost daily and it has yet to get old.
Please fill me in, your comments are welcome...it is a 1600 mile drive one-way to Clark from SA!
|
|
|
|
|
therealdeal
Jun 3, 2004, 2:26 AM
Post #7 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2002
Posts: 250
|
If you are noobs...go to Maple. Lots of bolts, cool in the summer, and tons of routes at absolutely every grade.
You'll be climbing 5.12 in a week....too bad you can't take it with you when you leave.
If you go, please show the place the proper respect...its getting a little worked.
Have a good trip
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jun 3, 2004, 2:35 AM
Post #8 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
You might have fun going to all the places there are to go on the "East Side" like Mammoth, Clark, Owen's, Bear Crag, Pine Creek, Dike Wall, Deadman's Bouldering, and further up, into Tuolumne and Tahoe...that would be a fun trip I think...but Clark Cyn is really nothing to get excited about by itself, not someplace you'd go repeatedly even if you lived nearby...
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 2:36 AM
Post #9 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
In reply to: Are you talking about Clark Canyon, by Mammoth Lakes, CA? If so, save yourself the disappointment. It is a very beautiful place, and the climbing is fun...but there really is only one or two days of good climbing. The routes are short and fun on little pockets. Its kinda sharp. It is national forest, camping is free and primitive. Pets are fine. If you have more than a couple of days you will likely become bored...but of course, the East Side has limitless diversions. However, if it is really SINGLE PITCH SPORT ROUTES that you desire (and not amazing bouldering, corn skiing, alpine granite, natural hot springs, etc) then there are far superior locales than Mammoth. If you persisit, then check out the Bear Crag, the Dike Wall and Pine Creek Canyon... If you want tips on some REAL sport climbing areas that will be suitable for you as well as your better half...just ask. Have a good trip... Would you like some tips on other crags in the west that may hold more than a passing interest?
Hey therealdeal,
I appreciate your input! The last thing I want to do is drive 1600 miles and be disappointed.
As I mentioned previously, my wife and I are usually so jazzed to be up on the rock (and soon in Cali surrounded by beauty!) that nothing has gotten old for us, no matter how routine, boring, or "easy" it may seem to more experienced and hardcore climbers. We climb an 80 foot limestone crag almost daily in San Antonio surrounded by a dried out South Texas cedar forest, mosquitos, and 95+ degree heat AND WE LOVE IT, so this trip will be a very positive experience for us regardless of where we go.
HOWEVER, if you have a better scoop on where we might better enjoy our time, BY ALL MEANS, your suggestions are welcome!
We are looking to climb, yes, but ALSO to camp, explore, hike, play with our dogs, etc. We are NOOBS, and easily impressed/entertained.
Thank you for your help!
CK
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 2:46 AM
Post #10 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
In reply to: If you are noobs...go to Maple. Lots of bolts, cool in the summer, and tons of routes at absolutely every grade. You'll be climbing 5.12 in a week....too bad you can't take it with you when you leave. If you go, please show the place the proper respect...its getting a little worked. Have a good trip
Therealdeal,
Can you tell me a little more about Maple? Is it in California?
Have you been there before? If so, how was your experience?
Would you have enjoyed it as a beginner?
Sorry for the interrogation...Thank you for your help!
CK
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Jun 3, 2004, 2:56 AM
Post #11 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
Maple vert to overhanging cobbles in a sandstone matrix. Campground at the crag. One of the best summer crags in the country, plenty of shade. Nice people and scene. Good for dog's but don't take them into box canyon, everywhere else is okay.
If you go to maple, try to stop by the high uintahs. (alpine sport)
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 3:01 AM
Post #12 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
In reply to: Maple vert to overhanging cobbles in a sandstone matrix. Campground at the crag. One of the best summer crags in the country, plenty of shade. Nice people and scene. Good for dog's but don't take them into box canyon, everywhere else is okay. If you go to maple, try to stop by the high uintahs. (alpine sport)
So you would say, speaking in terms of destination climbs, Maple over Clark Canyon?
|
|
|
|
|
seeking8a
Jun 3, 2004, 3:02 AM
Post #13 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2002
Posts: 71
|
I'm posting from my husband's account (should just get one of my own, huh?)... just couldn't sit quiet on this one. Maple Canyon, which is pretty much our home crag, is 2 h south of Salt Lake City, so for you would be a little closer of a drive than the Eastern Sierra. There are a variety of grades and it is very friendly to moderate climbers. It can be crowded in the summer, particularly the easier routes. That being said, I disagree with others that you shouldn't go to the Eastern Sierra. We went there several years ago when we were climbing about the same grades as you guys, and we had a great time. I do think that depending on the amount of time you have, you will want to see other crags out there. The free camping situation alone is nice, and the 1-2 days you can spend climbing there are worth it. If you go consider doing a couple of days there and a couple of days at Owen's River Gorge (right nearby)... but be aware that it might be a bit hot there. Getting back to Maple, it's at 8k feet so is cooler, but be aware that camping can be tight, there is no water in the campground, you have to pay $5/night, and steer clear of holidays if possible. Hope this helps - DB
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 3:20 AM
Post #14 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
In reply to: I'm posting from my husband's account (should just get one of my own, huh?)... just couldn't sit quiet on this one. Maple Canyon, which is pretty much our home crag, is 2 h south of Salt Lake City, so for you would be a little closer of a drive than the Eastern Sierra. There are a variety of grades and it is very friendly to moderate climbers. It can be crowded in the summer, particularly the easier routes. That being said, I disagree with others that you shouldn't go to the Eastern Sierra. We went there several years ago when we were climbing about the same grades as you guys, and we had a great time. I do think that depending on the amount of time you have, you will want to see other crags out there. The free camping situation alone is nice, and the 1-2 days you can spend climbing there are worth it. If you go consider doing a couple of days there and a couple of days at Owen's River Gorge (right nearby)... but be aware that it might be a bit hot there. Getting back to Maple, it's at 8k feet so is cooler, but be aware that camping can be tight, there is no water in the campground, you have to pay $5/night, and steer clear of holidays if possible. Hope this helps - DB
Hi Seeking8a!
We are kinda partial to checking out CA (although the more I see/read of Maple the more interested I am, we may hit this crag on the drive home) because we are going to try to move there in the next few years.
Where else in the Sierras do you (or anyone else) suggest, that ISN'T 90+ degree heat?
Owens is already in the mid 90's...
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Jun 3, 2004, 3:27 AM
Post #15 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
In reply to: So you would say, speaking in terms of destination climbs, Maple over Clark Canyon?
Maple is a 10, clark would be a 3. Clark is nice enough to visit, but that is about it. I spent two summers just at maple.
Mt. Williamson in the foothills above LA would be nicer.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jun 3, 2004, 3:27 AM
Post #16 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*Where else in the Sierras do you (or anyone else) suggest, that ISN'T 90+ degree heat?
Owens is already in the mid 90's...*
For single pitch sport, Owen's is the only place in Cali worth driving 1600 miles to, but not in summer...if you just wanna climb, go to Maple and some other places in Utah, if you wanna check out Cali and not climb as much, then go with the East Side
|
|
|
|
|
bcd
Jun 3, 2004, 3:43 AM
Post #17 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2003
Posts: 43
|
My two cents on Clark Canyon:
While the number of routes is a bit limited, you'll find plenty to do for a few days. Most of the routes are in the 5.10-5.11 range, but there is a fairly new crag covered with 5.5-5.7, and a handfull of 5.12's. Everything is tightly bolted and safe, though many of the top anchors are getting worn (please use quickdraws for toproping!). Many routes share anchors, so it's easy to throw a toprope on routes that might be above your lead level.
Camping is free - all over the place! As mentioned earlier, there is a great spot about 5 minutes from the crag. It's a nice meadow with a few trees. Great for dogs, but watch out for ticks in the early summer (through mid july, maybe). Water is an issue at that spot, so fill up in town (20 minutes) or the Big Springs Campground (5 minutes). I'm not sure about showers at Big Springs Campground, but there is a river nearby. Basically, everything to the east of 395 is BLM land. You can camp wherever you want, and no one will care. Drive around on dirt roads long enough and you'll find some great campspots with killer views of the sierra.
If you're looking for a change of scenery, there are numerous other sport crags around Mammoth Lakes, all sitting at 8000 feet or higher. Many are new-ish, so you won't be able to find a guidebook. Just stop by Mammoth Mountaineering and ask for topos on Crystal Crag and the Horseshoe Piles. Also, the Dike Wall is probably the highest quality sport climbing in the area. Getting to the base of Crystal Crag is a bit of a hike, but it's worth it (even if you aren't climbing). There are about 20 sport routes with killer views of Mammoth Lakes.
Also, if temps cool off a bit, the Owens River Gorge will keep you busy for a while. If you're used to Texas heat, you'll probably enjoy the Gorge. You can almost always find a wall that is in the shade, or just climb in the evening.
One problem: With the exception of Clark Canyon, all the higher elevation sport climbing in Mammoth is still pretty snowy/wet (today is June 2nd. A few weeks will change that.
|
|
|
|
|
seeking8a
Jun 3, 2004, 4:11 AM
Post #18 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2002
Posts: 71
|
I'm not really seeking8a but rather "wife of seeking8a"... more like seeking 7a. Anyway, I can't really tell you where else to go in that Mammoth area that's not hot besides Clark. We were there in early June, and it was nice in Clark but pretty warm in Owens as I remember. The Pine Creek area might be nice and cool as well. I don't remember there being tons to do there, though. Regarding Maple, it really is a GREAT place, tons of possibilities as everyone says. One thing that's nice about it if you or your wife are new to leading is that the routes are not run out. There are HIGH quality routes graded from 5.7-5.14, fun for all. I know I'm partial, but it's my fave crag that I've been to in the country. Good luck! - DB
|
|
|
|
|
bishopclimber
Jun 3, 2004, 4:24 AM
Post #19 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2003
Posts: 193
|
I like Clark Canyon for a day or two.
I suggest expanding your climbing horizons and start trad climbing.
Tuolumne is just up the road from Clark's Canyon
|
|
|
|
|
powpierre
Jun 3, 2004, 5:21 AM
Post #20 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2003
Posts: 66
|
I'd recommend Clark for a couple of days then stay in the area and hit up bear crag and dyke walls up in Mammoth. A day or two in Owens should be doable early or late in the day on shady sides but stay camped up in Mammoth area( better sleeping) although Horton Creek is nice free camping outside Bishop. If or when you get bored head North to Tahoe where Big Chief, Donner, and eagle cliffs will keep you occupied. This will also put you on or near 80 to take you back to Nephi and Maple Canyon in Utah. Guides can be gotten at Wilsons in Bishop or www.rockfax.com
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 3:54 PM
Post #21 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
Thank you to everyone who gave helpful infomation!!!
|
|
|
|
|
gumbobob
Jun 3, 2004, 4:46 PM
Post #22 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 21, 2002
Posts: 241
|
like every one else, i m going to advise not driving 1600 mi for clark canyon--its nice, but boy i know i'd be pissed!
the rest of the east side of the sierras is right there, along with a two hour drive to yosemite valley!
and you might as well check out tahoe-donner--fantastic granite climbing (volcanic too) and lake tahoe--a great place to spend a rest day!
|
|
|
|
|
hasbeen
Jun 3, 2004, 5:12 PM
Post #23 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 543
|
Between SA and Mammoth you will pass about half the sport areas in the US. You could easily climb each day and drive for a few hours each night and hit a bunch of different places in both directions. If you start south and finish north, try this circuit:
First and last days are long drives, unless you want to climb in Texas.
I'm skipping places where most of the routes are hard, since you said 9-11:
Los Alamos (numerous basalt cliffs in town or las conchas)
Flagstaff/Winslow (Jack's Cyn or if too hot, The Pit)
Vegas (not too good for low grades on limestone though, but you can get a day no problem)
Bishop (Gorge, worth a day even in summer. Following shade is fine)
Mammoth (Clark, Rock Creek, Deadman's, Granite Knob, Warming Wall, ect, ect... Dike Wall is hard but worth it even if you only do the one 10a)
Tuolomne (for sport, do one day at Cottage Dome)
Tahoe (numerous: Mayhem Cove, that Meyers Place, or Castle Crag south, Big Chief north)
long drive east....
Maple
Overlook (near Cedar City)
Durango (lots of little cliffs)
and
Penitente
then back to Los Alamos
or if hot, go north
Redstone Cliff or Independence Pass
Boulder (Clear Creek, Flatirons, any canyon)
Shelf Road
back to Los Alamos
Damn, this used to be my life.
Have fun!
|
|
|
|
|
cosmokramer
Jun 3, 2004, 5:47 PM
Post #24 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 191
|
Hey there! Thanks for the tips!
In reply to: Damn, this used to be my life.
USED to be your life?!?!?!? Get it back! No time like the present!
CK
|
|
|
|
|
mungeclimber
Jun 3, 2004, 7:55 PM
Post #25 of 27
(12371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 648
|
Get the guide for the area and bite the bullet for a few bucks.
More info here
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
