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wings
Jun 10, 2004, 11:04 AM
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I'm going to be moving to Calgary (or perhaps Canmore) before the end
of the year, and wanted to get an idea of what people find useful to have
on their racks in this area. I'm still in the process of building up my rack,
and would like to make decisions with this in mind.
I currently have stoppers #3 to #13, camalots #1 #2 #3 #4.5, and
a yellow alien.
I've used a friend's rack and found myself gravitating more towards
stoppers and hexes than cams. Any particular preferences for a second
set of nuts? Hexes?
- Seyil
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findingit
Jun 10, 2004, 11:29 AM
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My opinion is that you will find it useful to have something of everything. That being said, my preference is to rack lots by keeping things lighter. Unless you are totally bent on Camalots I would start by checking out lighter cams (DMM for example), then I would think about a set of slinged hexes (I love Wild Country). Particularly on Yamnuska (i'm guessing this will be a frequently visited mountain for you) you will need long runners, routes wander up there and rope drag will be one of your concerns (don't forget a second rope). That is every bit an alpine experience, it requires more preperation (and gear) than your average day at the crag. As they say on the guide book out here at Bon Echo "This ain't no $@#%ing climbing gym!!". Anyways, these are all things that you can glean from some of the Calgary climbers, that's my hometown, they are good people. Hopefully in the near future I will find my way back there........and don't forget......Flames Rock!!!
Good luck and safe climbing.
ciao
clint
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findingit
Jun 10, 2004, 11:36 AM
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oh and don't forget to save some cash for ice gear.....
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luke_flowers
Dec 6, 2005, 10:39 AM
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If you are looking for some cheap alternatives to spring loaded camming devices then Tri Cams may be worth a look. I have found that they can be really useful on the ubiquitous horizontal cracks and limestone pockets around the Bow Valley.
Just my two-cents...but for the price and weight, they definitely have a place in my heart.
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dru
Dec 6, 2005, 10:55 AM
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A Rockies trad rack is a dozen quickdraws, six knifeblades and a hammer. :wink:
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rockguide
Dec 6, 2005, 10:55 AM
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In reply to: If you are looking for some cheap alternatives to spring loaded camming devices then Tri Cams may be worth a look. I have found that they can be really useful on the ubiquitous horizontal cracks and limestone pockets around the Bow Valley. .
He speaks the truth here. Wires, tricams and active cams make up the bulk of my rack in the rockies. I carry pitons and a hammer on less travelled routes (this is not granite ....) and a bolt kit on new routes.
On the regular travelled routes a small rack is better - most trade routes have bolted belays and fixed pitons or bolts where they are needed. It is rare to find a continuous crack system that you can sew up like in granite. And almost no continuous sized cracks like Indian Creek.
So you should be good on what you have. Before jumping on a route, ask around if it has gear-eatin' pitches.
oh, and quartzite (back of the lake, etc) calls for a full sized, big kid trad rack.
Brian
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wings
Dec 6, 2005, 11:27 AM
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Heh. The thread lives again after an 18 month hiatus.
- Seyil
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luke_flowers
Dec 6, 2005, 2:44 PM
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ha ha
I guess I should have looked at the posting date....did you eventually move out to the rockies? If so, how has the climbing been....with all the portable holds and vigilante goats that come along with it?
Luke
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