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gds
Jun 10, 2004, 1:58 PM
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Well I just got back from my first visit to Paradise Forks. I knew I had little experience with pure crack climbing but the guide has lots of 5.9's so I figured "great place to improve."
That's not how I feel now. I really struggled and convinced myself that I have lots to learn about crack technique. Most other crack areas I've visited have some features so that I could "cheat" every once in a while. Not so at PF and I got really spanked. It's been quite a while since 5.9 worked me so completely.
It was quite a comeuppance after a day cruising at Jacks Canyon.
Have others had a similar experience? Any suggestion of where in AZ to go to find pure cracks a grade or so less than at the Forks so I can learn something and not kill myself.
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pancaketom
Jun 10, 2004, 2:07 PM
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I would say that you can't really compare grades at paradise forks and jacks canyon other than to say that the forks is way way way harder. The only saving grace for learning there is you can toprope everything. I think that the crack stuff at oak creek overlook was a bit easier. Maybe not so "pure" crack climbing.
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soulsurfer
Jun 10, 2004, 2:10 PM
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I thought Paradise Forks was tough too. I was there a few weeks ago and climbed 5 different routes there. I think it just takes a few times there to get used to it. I don't know that it was any harder than other traditional spots though.
Keep at it, have fun and you will be climbing those thin 11's in no time.
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jt512
Jun 10, 2004, 2:10 PM
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In reply to: Well I just got back from my first visit to Paradise Forks. I knew I had little experience with pure crack climbing but the guide has lots of 5.9's so I figured "great place to improve." That's not how I feel now. I really struggled and convinced myself that I have lots to learn about crack technique. Most other crack areas I've visited have some features so that I could "cheat" every once in a while. Not so at PF and I got really spanked. It's been quite a while since 5.9 worked me so completely. It was quite a comeuppance after a day cruising at Jacks Canyon. Have others had a similar experience? Any suggestion of where in AZ to go to find pure cracks a grade or so less than at the Forks so I can learn something and not kill myself.
Ratings at Paradise Forks are said to be stiff (I've never climbed there), while ratings at Jacks are infamously soft.
-Jay
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2004, 2:33 PM
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A Forks spanking. Ain't it grand? *sigh* I'd much rather get trounced at the Forks than, like, Prison Camp. A Forks outing, even if it is a beating, is a beautiful thing.
The Forks is rated kinda old-skool, and represents a style of climbing that is not very common elsewhere in the state (like Tucson). It spanks everybody. If you liked the Forks well enough, just keep going back and building up the specific kind of strength and endurance to take on such dreamy basalt jamming goodness.
Dreeeeeeeeamy Forksy goooooodness. Yum.
(psst, Jay, if you want to rectify this never visited the Forks sitcheeayshun, we can arrange for that this weekend! :twisted: )
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sonso45
Jun 10, 2004, 2:36 PM
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Get to Cochise when you can climb the Rockfellow Dome cracks: Days of future passed is a wonderful 9. If you want to get good at basalt cracks, go back to PF and just get on em again. It took a few trips but I am happy with PF's ratings, I know what to expect. I think Jack's v. PF ratings are out of whack due to the nature of today's climber, not the climbs. I do 11s at both but pay much more attention at the Forks. M
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gds
Jun 10, 2004, 2:42 PM
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thanks for the replys!!
My problem was not with the ratings. And I know Jacks is soft. That's why I was cruising.
My problem was with my lack of pure crack technique. Most cracks that I have climbed have occasional features and have certainly allowed me to find occasional face hand and/or foot holds. This was the first time I was forced to do an entire route using only jamming for both hands and feet.
I know the answer is practice- I'm just looking for some similar but easier routes to build up that technique.
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crackaddict
Jun 10, 2004, 2:46 PM
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The Forks takes some a few times to get used to. But I feel the ratings there are nice.
The Overlook is a good area to train for the Forks. Lots more routes under 5.10. Lots more features to use also. Sullivan Canyon also has some good Basalt.
You should also try Voulenteer Canyon and Sycamore Point. Very Nice!!!! :D
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maculated
Jun 10, 2004, 3:10 PM
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I saw this post and thought, ahhhhh, yes . . .
Don't worry, you're not alone. I really hope I get back to the Forks this year to spank IT.
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epic_ed
Moderator
Jun 10, 2004, 3:10 PM
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You beat me to it, but I'd definitely suggest heading up to Oakcreek Overlook. You can TR everything there and there's much more in the 5.9 and under range. Beautiful location, too.
Ed
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ford
Jun 10, 2004, 4:39 PM
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Getting spanked at the Forks (especially on a first visit) is a rite of passage! Welcome brother! 8^) My first visit there left me whining and sniveling and thinking maybe I should give up Climbing and take up knitting as a hobby.
You're right, no surface features to use as cheater holds. The trick to Paradise Forks is that it's NOT just pure crack technique. Stemming! Stemming will get you a long ways. Still ain't Easy... last time I was there, I thrashed my way up a 9-ish thing where I was stemmed so far out, my toes were above my shoulders. Anyway it FELT like that. I may never have children but I bagged that one CLEAN! (well... on a top-belay anyhow :roll: )
I'm going back again this summer, I am convinced that I can lead Ship of Fools (10 minus) without yanking the start holds off.
I third the suggestion for training at the overlook. Similar kind of rock, but without the ego crushing features.
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dwise
Jan 19, 2006, 5:39 PM
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Add me to the list of humbled souls sporting spanking bruises compliments of Paradise Forks.
I usually consider myself an OK crack climber, but had a very bad hair day on my trip there a few weeks ago. The first few routes went OK, but felt a bit more challenging than I expected. The last few routes had me flailing and hangdogging.
Despite the humiliation, I had a great day and am anxiously looking forward to going back. Though I was beginning to despair of finding a partner during my trip, the hospitality of the Arizona climbing crowd came through. Markguycan squared me away with Mark Hawthorne (hawthorne5630). Mark was great company and a great climber. He spent the day ropegunning and patiently belaying while I groveled. Thanks fellas!
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fearlessclimber
May 21, 2007, 1:04 PM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2005
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i went to the forks for the first time basically besides doing top rope many years ago. i got spanked on a 5.9 and a 5.10b, my strait on crack tecqnigue sucks, i climb solid 11 crack at all the other places i have visited. But the forks is true crack climbing, i loved the rock, i need more practice.
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