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addiroids
Jun 10, 2004, 5:14 AM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
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I had the same problem. Besides breakfast at the car (which wasn't that big) I ate like 6 Cliff bars the each day both days we were on the wall. My bowels were bothering me (rumbling, but no poop) too, but I ate less in 2 days of hard climbing, than I do in a day of construction, and working out.
It's amazing that when you think you are going to whip 40' that food just doesn't really preoccupy you!
Great job dude!!
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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kungfuclimber
Jun 10, 2004, 5:18 AM
Post #3 of 9
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 162
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Is that someone's gear getting hauled at the top right of the third picture? Steep!
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lambone
Jun 10, 2004, 5:24 AM
Post #4 of 9
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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Yeah, that is above the Zorro Roof, the steepest part of the route.
That's funny, i am allways starving on a wall...nice pics!
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addiroids
Jun 10, 2004, 5:31 AM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
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In reply to: Is that someone's gear getting hauled at the top right of the third picture? Steep!
Yeah, you almost get tired of having waterfalls being 70 feet behind you (okay, so better than ON you) and the bags being 20 feet away from the wall. It almost reminds you that you should be more scared.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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timpanogos
Jun 10, 2004, 5:33 AM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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yea, we got passed - 3 times!
and for you speed climbers - the first time we were passed - these two dudes from Holland.
damn - they were flying - mostly a french free type of ascent.
ok here you go - special 2 aider speed climb system
1. aider - dedicated to testing only - nothing else
second aider - use it - sometimes if the going is tuff.
Now take a short QD hook one end to your belay donut - no fifi, no adjustable, no daisy at all! - place, test - climb up (single aider assist optional) and clip that donut QD right to the piece (yea that #3 brassy)
The rack - hell what rack - not sure where/what gear he was using??? super super light.
Only thing that did make me feel better, it nailed once above the pointy little reminder.
Poor buggers waited for hours for me to do the black tower pitch - and then the dude did the whole thing in about 15 minutes.
damn.
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epic_ed
Jun 10, 2004, 6:01 AM
Post #7 of 9
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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Beautiful pictures, Chad. Damn, that thing is steep. I know what you mean about the appetite thing. Problem is, I seem to fluctuate. One day I might not eat squat and have very little for lunch, but the next day I'll be starving and I'll plow through a couple of days worth of food. Weird.
Ed
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clorda
Jun 11, 2004, 8:04 PM
Post #8 of 9
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 10
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Chad,
Keep the pictures coming. They are just great (I'm sitting drooling at my computer).
A stupid question: on the fifth pic, are those bolts on the bottom? Is that crack wierd or expando or doesn't accept gear ? Or is it OW ?
I know pictures can fool you, but still, I don't understand...
Cheers,
CL
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timpanogos
Jun 11, 2004, 8:20 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Yea those are bolts - spaced through the expando cam jug section - thankfully
That is the pitch between station 13 and 14
Supertopo makes these notes:
4.5" for 80'
first section - 5.9lb or C1
second section 5.10 or C1
Chris got nailed in the hand here with a rock that poped on the expando. It sounded like knocking on a huge door - very hollow sounding stuff.
Bolts are there so you can do it with only 2 #5 friends.
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