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bkpkrn


Apr 28, 2002, 9:46 PM
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Teqnique
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Whenever anyone gives me advice on things to work on, its always, "fingerstrength and teqnique." I'm working on the fingerstrength (I know its gonna be a while before I am happy with it), but I need more on teqnique. Is there anything to teqnique that I should be doing besides working on my footwork? It seems like there should be more to it than that, but thats what seems to be associated most with teqnique.


Partner tim


Apr 28, 2002, 10:30 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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Hanging from your bones (eg. straight armed or completely flexed)? Rotation? Precision? Flexibility and confidence? Drop knees, heel-toes, and jamming? How about your smearing -- can you swap a sloper for grout or paneling once in a while? How's your stemming -- can you turn pretty much any static hold into a rest? What about pacing -- sometimes faster *IS* better.

You know, that sort of thing.

Have fun... plenty to learn, I am still learning myself, as I discovered when I fell off a f---ing 5.8 (!) after not leading indoors for a few months. (I don't fall off of 5.8 on gear at Seneca!!! I am a DORK!!!) Anyways, technique is basically "any cheating-type thing that lets you climb better harder and longer, without actually having to get stronger" and is hence essential to progress.



joemor


Apr 29, 2002, 3:56 AM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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climb without making a sound and smoothly, without stabbing at holds, flow up the wall, traversing is a good way to practise. oh and try to keep your weight on your feet not your arms.

joe


climber_trev


May 2, 2002, 4:27 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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As a general rule if you are a climber who is serious, always attemping harder climbs, trying to better yourself you will never be completely happy with your finger strength, thats a sad fact. But that is definatly secondary to improving technique.

Technique improvements will most strongly occur if you as a climber, focus soley on this aspect of climbing. Drop your climb's level to a stage that strength is meaningless. Your aim is to always think about how you are climbing, as the others have said climbing with straight arms, maximizing your body weight on the legs etc and being constantly aware of this, and correcting yourself, this is called self awareness. It will take time to master, but the best climbers are always using it, its just it becomes secondary after awhile.

Eric Horst's 'how to climb 5.12' i would highly reccommend, there are a few other good books out there look at them and read the posts on this site.

You will be able to learn a lot of your tech. from asking yourself "how can i make this move easier" and constantly being aware.

Good luck and enjoy it!
climber_trev


Partner iclimbtoo


May 2, 2002, 4:36 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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A mullet for aerodynamics on big dynos!


dimeedge


May 2, 2002, 7:30 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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onsight!

Your self awareness goes way up when you are on the sharp end in unfamiliar territory. The more you do it the better your mental technique will get, and your body will follow.



dynamic


May 2, 2002, 8:20 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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A mullet definitely helps with dynos...

Also, I sometimes squeeze way to hard with my fingers, especially when on lead. This drains me really fast. Try to avoid using any more energy than you need.


bkpkrn


May 2, 2002, 8:33 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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Thanks everyone that has replied, I'll give your advice a shot. Much appreciated.
N8


tygereye


May 3, 2002, 1:38 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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Check out the site:http://climbbetter.get.to/
Lots of tips on technique


pelliott


May 3, 2002, 1:45 PM
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Teqnique [In reply to]
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The weird part about technique is that each climb is unique. A bunch of us were working on a problem at Blue Mound recently and there was a climb there called Gulliver's Travels. It is only 5.8, but we were having a hard time. It turned out we were simply using one hold wrong. It needed to be an undercling. Most of the climb was easy after that.


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