Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
N.CA Sport Climbing
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


dustinap
Deleted

Apr 30, 2002, 10:05 PM
Post #1 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

N.CA Sport Climbing
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What sport climbing is there in California other then Pinnacles? Grades don't matter to much, as long as it's not like Jailhouse where you're warming up on 11's.


maculated


Apr 30, 2002, 10:29 PM
Post #2 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 22, 2001
Posts: 6177

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's some decent stuff on Mt. Diablo, but you'll want to be real experienced in bolts and possibly bring your own hangers because I think that area's kind of sketchy.

San Luis has some decent climbing if you're in the .7 - .11 range. There's always Bishop. I haven't been anywhere else north, so I don't know what's trad or sport beyond that. But that's what the Route Database is for.


Partner phylp


May 1, 2002, 2:35 PM
Post #3 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 175

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The other basalt areas around Jamestown like the Grotto have sport climbing.
What do you mean by "No.Cal"?
The Valley and the Meadows have had a lot of sport development in recent years. The stuff in the Valley is mostly in the 5.11 grade and up, but in the Meadows there is a ton of new stuff easier than that, like the East cottage Dome area and some of the newer stuff on Medlicott. There is a Valley "sport climbs" book, and the Meadows stuff is in the latest Meadows guidebook.
Big Chief at Donner Summit is almost all sport routes at easy to hard grades. There are scattered sport routes all over Donner Summit, but much of that starts at 5.11ish. Mike Carville's book covers it.
Of course when you cross over the Tioga Pass there's Clark Canyon, the Owen's Gorge and many other places. I consider all of the above northern Cal.


roughster


May 8, 2002, 2:56 AM
Post #4 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Check out the Auburn Limestone Area in, lol, Auburn. About 14 miles East of Sacramento on the (80).

The directions and route info is in the Area Section for NoCal.

Right now bolted routes from 5.9 - 5.12c.

Sure there isn't a TON of stuff to do, but you can look forward to another new route this weekend

Right now the grades are:

5.9 X 4
5.10b x 1
5.10c x 1
5.10d x 1
5.11a x 1
5.12a x 1
5.12c x 1

If you go this weekend, you might see me out there, though I don't know which day yet. Most likely Sat.


ravens_wing_jim


May 14, 2002, 12:10 PM
Post #5 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 396

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There is good sport routes on volcanic
rock in the napa valley at Mt St. Helena
Robert lewis Stevenson state park.
The two main spots there are: The bubble,
and the bear.
On the bubble you have a few sport routes,
the best one is: the ladder, a 5-9 bolted
pocket climb.
Bring lots of water though,
its one hell of a hike up to these spots.
But the view of the napa valley down below
is well worth it.
Also there is good climbing on the sonoma
coast just north of bodega bay(remember the
movie the birds? it was filmed there).
There are two places: sunset boulders(toprope) and the sea crag.
Both of these give you climbing with
a fantastic view of the waves right behind
you.

[ This Message was edited by: ravens_wing_jim on 2002-05-14 12:12 ]


krustyklimber


May 14, 2002, 11:59 PM
Post #6 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What about that place, what's it called... Trinity AretÚs near Eureka, in or near the Trinity Wilderness.
I'm supposed to go to Crecent City, Ca. next month on family business, so if anyone knows about climbing in that area let me know huh?

Thanks

Jeff


roughster


May 15, 2002, 4:18 AM
Post #7 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You want the skinny on NoCal Limestone? Hehehe, well you come to the right place grasshopper

NoCal Limestone

Reference: "Bigfoot Country Climbing", by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello

Mid 1990s ushered in the age of limestone sport climbing to NoCal in a major
way. The highly prolific tag team of Eric and Paul started developing the
plethora of limestone areas in the Humboldt/Trinity Alps area.

Many of these areas are still under wraps as access concerns and development is
still proceeding at a rapid pace. Ironically, a new guide from Falcon Press by
Steve Mackay was recalled due to abundant mis information to these areas as
well as publishing a massively available topo to Natural Bridge which is
currently under an access crisis. Falcon's willingness to pull the guide was a
good step in hopefully securing the right to climb here, as when fully
developed, this area will rival anything in the state for Steep Limestone
Climbing.

Something of concern/disconcert (depending on who you talk to) is the relative
high use of the new Removable Bolt technology in the area. Many climbers look
at these routes as a selfish statement since few climbers have the means to buy
a whole rack of RBs at about $50 a pop, I don't blame them. On top of that,
safety concerns have been seen considering a fall by a local climber that blew
out a 2-foot plate of rock in the relatively soft limestone. Solid granite
seems to be the more appropriate place for use of this technology, but in
overhanging soft limestone???? Whichever side of the debate you fall on,
currently about 20-30% of NoCal Limestone routes have RBs as required
protection.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
Trinity Aretes

Trinity Arete outside of Burnt Ranch off of the (299) was the 1st limestone
area to see development. Though 2 routes existed from previous unknown
climbers, the areas potential remained largely untapped. Currently, "The
Aretes" as known to local climbers has a good selection of bolted sport routes
ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. The Steep Wall on the right side of the Aretes is
a beautiful piece of overhanging limestone and often draws a comparison to
Rifle-esque type rock. Further development is ongoing but the area is quickly
filling up to max capacity.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------

Cecilville Bluffs

Cecilville Bluffs outside of Cecilville is another area very typical of NoCal.
AMAZING limestone sits on a steep embankment. A small trail winds its way up
patches of slabs and more than a few sections of poison oak, to deposit the
climber at the base of what can only be described as a truly inspiring piece of
limestone.

Early access concerns about shut this area down. One of the developers was
threatened with a $250 fine for improving the trail out to the crag. Once
again due to Eric and Paul, access was sorted out with local land managers and
currently a tentative climbing plan has been agreed to giving access to some
portions of the cliff and leaving others for nesting Birds of Prey.

What is currently developed is still an excellent selection of long vertical
climbs that tackle tiered roofs. Redding climbers have also contributed routes
in the area, particularly the 1st Wall and the Chronic Wall which feature steep
routes up to 5.13. Syles Larson is rumored to have a hand in the developing of
the routes, but he has long since skated out of the area.

It is doubtful, despite the quality of stone, that Cecilville will ever play a
prominent role in California Limestone climbing considering the absolutely
HEINOUS drive out there on a ONE LANE windy mtn road that is in questionable
condition in the GOOD spots. Regardless, the few who make the journey will be
inspired by the little piece of France sitting above the little mountain town.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------
Marble Caves

Near Forest Glen off of the (36), several large bone white streaked in blue
cliff bands beckon local climbers. These are the Marble Caves. Some of these
cliffs are TALL and STEEP. The development here holds one of the highest
concentration of RB and mixed RB routes in NoCal. While the area does not
receive much traffic, even by local standards, the stone is of high quality and
future routes are still be developed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------

Natural Bridge

Nestled in the densely forested hills around Hayfork is a limestone feature
that is most likely NoCal's premiere limestone area. A huge limestone plug
straddles Bridge Gulch Creek. Due to the water action of the creek, a small
cave and tiered overhanging face grace the upstream side, but what is truly
impressive is the down stream side which has opened a HUGE cave. Beyond
that, surrounding walls of streaked blue, gold, and white limestone grace the
hills all with a network of trails connecting from the parking area a measly
100 yards away.

Currently, the area is seeing access concerns and a voluntary ban on bolting is
in place (grrrr......) until access is hammered out with local land managers.
The cave currently has an established 5.13c with 3 projects in the works that
will check in for sure hard 5.13 if not pushing the 5.14 grade into NoCal. Up
to 12 bolts long, these climbs tackle nearly horizontal roofs of highly
featured limestone and are spectacular.

The surrounding walls: Dirt Surfer, Orange Wall, UV Wall, as well as others
have bolted routes into the 5.13 range all on pocketed and tufa featuring
limestone. Steep, slab, vert, Natural Bridge has it all, including a few RB
routes.

When access has returned to normal (hopefully soon) I have a bunch of projects
calling to me that I bolted last year. Ohhh the steep limestone goodness
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------
Other NoCal Areas:

There a few other areas scattered out throughout the area including the Fly
Froggy Buttress, The Egg, and Castle Rock, all of which feature limestone of
varying quality and quantity. Who knows what future developments hold for
these smaller areas.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------
The Shredding

Outside of Redding to the East is the small town of Burney. The Shredding aka
Burney Limestone is a small area with a good selection of high-end sport climbs
up to 13c. The limestone here is a bit grungy but it is steep. Travis Klawin
developed a good portion of these routes but there is definitely more potential
for routes in the area.

While it seeps heavily in the spring, the relative tight canyon makes the cliff
climbable except all but the absolutely smoking hot days of dog summer. With
easy access from a good highway, I would expect to see more development in the
area soon.


[ This Message was edited by: roughster on 2002-05-15 04:20 ]


krustyklimber


May 15, 2002, 11:55 AM
Post #8 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks Roughster, ask a question, eh? Excellent answer! Anybody he didn't cover?

Nice to have you here man,

Jeff


roughster


May 15, 2002, 8:16 PM
Post #9 of 9 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003

N.CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dustin:

PM me about Jailhouse and I can fill you in.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook