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what is the big face on Grandfather Mountain seen from park
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crossfit2


Jun 28, 2004, 10:56 AM
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what is the big face on Grandfather Mountain seen from park
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I know that all climbing is off limits around grandfather other than shiprock but does anyone have info on the large faces seen from the parkway? In particular the two large waters streaks? I think that the approach is now owned by the nature conservancy but am not sure. I climbed some ice years ago in there in an area called the jewels. Just wondering if anyone knows much else about the area.


Partner j_ung


Jun 28, 2004, 11:02 AM
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Re: what is the big face on Grandfather Mountain seen from p [In reply to]
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Hmm... good question. It's been so off limits for longer than I've been in NC. I really don't know, but if you find out, do tell.


seanb


Jun 28, 2004, 10:08 PM
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I was told that there are some old Doug Reed routes up on those obvious faces. I was also told that they were very difficult and very sparsely protected!


twistedropesliz


Jul 7, 2004, 7:15 PM
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Hey, this might seem kind of like a stupid question- but I LOVE Boone, NC (I hope to go to college up there) and I LOVE grandfather mountain for hiking, but since I'm newish to climbing, i thought I'd ask if anyone knew exactly why those faces were off limits.

..yeah..


crossfit2


Jul 8, 2004, 7:26 PM
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Liz,

It is my understanding that the family that owns Grandfather Mt has made the upper faces off limits for legal and ecological reasons. The land that makes the bulk of the approach was purchased by the nature conservancy to preserve indigenous fauna. During winter months some nice ice has been known to form somewhere on the conservancy land but that is illegal and Im sure I know nothing about it :wink:


twistedropesliz


Jul 8, 2004, 7:34 PM
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WEll, it still sucks. Too bad I'm a squeaky clean school girl who wouldn't dream of breaking rules. :roll:

Meet me up there sometime?

By the way- I was just in charlotte for the fourth (got drug up there) and I have the black eye to prove it!


braaaaaaaadley


Jul 8, 2004, 8:57 PM
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I know no info, but I do know about the area of which you speak. Ship rock's cool, but it sure would be nice to be able to acess more of the climbing in the area. Im thinkin about getting into ice climbing this upcoming season and my school's about an hour away from boone... so if ya get any info on any climbing, id much appreciate the sharing of this info... or perhaps meeting up to put some of it to the test :lol:


perrytheprez


Aug 22, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Well, yes and no. [In reply to]
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The story of why there is no climbing on Grandfather is actually ironic. A few years back, there was a "religious fanatic" that went up to Grandfather to climb. He went to Ship Rock, and decided that he could free-solo and not be hurt because God would protect him (yes, this is a true story). Needless to say, when he fell, there were law-suits filed against Hugh Morton, the owner of Grandfather. He planned to close the whole mountain to climbing. Ship Rock, as it is in the land sold with the Blue Ridge Parkway, was not closed, as well as all rock below the Parkway. There are many excellent climbing areas on Grandfather that were lost, however, including Indian Rock (near Ship Rock), Lost Slab (the large face that was originally asked about)(there are Reed routes going up the right side, but the left side is overhanging!), the Moon Buttress (the really large face on the other side of the mountain, the profile rock for those familiar with the Profile trail), and others.


dynamicpanda


Aug 29, 2004, 6:12 PM
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Re: Well, yes and no. [In reply to]
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I bet your that there Dan Perry's son.


perrytheprez


Sep 1, 2004, 7:24 PM
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Well, I don't know how you could tell that from my above post, although I imagine my screenname may be a bit of a give-away, but yes, I am indeed Dan Perry's son.


Partner uitdoorqi


Sep 19, 2004, 6:56 PM
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Where there ever any routes put up on Grandfather?

I guess they don't want all those climbing hippies up on Grandfather Mountain when there are tons of retired Floridians willing to pay good money for the privilage. Just my take on it of course......


perrytheprez


Sep 20, 2004, 4:09 PM
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More than that, they don't want those climbing hippies up on Grandfather because they don't want to lose all the money the retired Floridians pay to a law suit settlement, and also, there really are many rare species of plants that could be destroyed by climbers. Everyony puts a bad image on Hugh Morton, but in reality, he is just doing what his legal advisors told him to. The Nature Conservancy is also a big piece of the puzzle.

As for the climbing on Grandfather, there literally are routes all over the mountain. On the front side, off the Profile Trail, there are big routes going up the Moon Buttress, the Hay Stack (or the Cloud Arete), and a few of the lower walls. On the back side, there is Stacked Rock (legal), Ship Rock (legal), Indian Rock, Lost Slab, Pilot's Knob (bolts are still up here, although the trail has "No Entrance, Nature Conservancy Area" signs all over it), and Attic Window Peak. For more information, you can e-mail me here.


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