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texscala
Jun 29, 2004, 5:22 PM
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A few years ago I used to climb in Rockville. Eventually the Loose rock, and glass helped me to make the desiscion to go to vacaville in order to boulder rather than Rockville. I have seen on this site there are some new routes up in rockville. Are any of these worth my time? Please let me know.
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caughtinside
Jun 29, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Not yet. There are 4 routes, and they are all unclimbable in their current state. The rock is really bad, and we need to replace some of the bolts there with glue ins.
Out of curiousity, which rocks did you climb in the park?
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texscala
Jun 29, 2004, 6:05 PM
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I used to live in fairfield and used it as a warm up rock in early spring. I climbed all over the place in Rockville. I climbed a rock with a belay pole hammered into the top off it. Climed a 45 foot rock that faces rockville rd. I always approaced it from the second park enterence. I also climbed a tower that has a crack and a cave.
Poison oak is always a problem.
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slablizard
Jun 29, 2004, 6:38 PM
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I s this a place with big yellowish boulders, covered with graffiti and littred by broken glass? When I first visited CA...circa 10 years ago, I went "climbing" in a place I can't remember better than this. I remember it was IN a small town and you had to walk under High Voltage Power lines in order to get there. I remember the "humming" of the Power lines.
Is this it?
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texscala
Jun 29, 2004, 8:22 PM
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Rockville does have the powerlines. Right park but it sounds like the wrong rock. There are different cliffs all over the park
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slablizard
Jun 29, 2004, 8:31 PM
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SAndstone?
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roughster
Jun 29, 2004, 8:32 PM
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As Dave said, please don't get on the 4 routes that are out there. Literally, you may pull the bolts with a fall. The rock really needs glue ins and hopefully I can get those put in over the next few weeks. I am waiting to borrow a Hilti Epoxy gun from a friend, but if I can't get it from him shortly, I'll just go buy one myself as I am a little concerned with just leaving time bomb bolts in the wall for someone to see and "think" are safe.
I'll post the info here when we get the job done.
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slablizard
Jun 29, 2004, 8:44 PM
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You guys are unstoppable! :)
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texscala
Jun 29, 2004, 10:55 PM
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the rock out there is not sandstone. It is some kind of old rotten rock, here and there you willl find descent holds but for the most part it is pretty rotten.
Also I would get those bolts fixed before some begginer thinks they are ok and climbs on them without checking them. let me know how it goes.
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roughster
Jul 11, 2004, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: the rock out there is not sandstone. It is some kind of old rotten rock, here and there you willl find descent holds but for the most part it is pretty rotten.
Actually the rock is good and bad alternating layers. There is some sections with a black hard patina which is really nice for climbing, and also higher up some of the cliffs are very featured and solid sections of pockets and chickenheads. The rock consists of andosites, basalts, and tuff. The predominate exposed rock is a loose grained tuff, which while is a little (OK ALOT) chossy, featuring great holds ranging from crimps, slopers, and pockets. Most of the cliffs are approximately 30 feet tallish. But yes, there is ALOT and I mean alot of bad rock, which will grit away forever. Or in some cases eat your rope!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=35892
After cleaning one of the routes today! :shock:
Some would question what the point of even developing rock this bad is. To that I would answer: Not everywhere has to be a mini-Ceuse! Local crags can serve a valuable service such as places to go on 1/2 days, run laps to stay in shape, or diversions from the regular routine at other more prominent local crags.
In reply to: Also I would get those bolts fixed before some begginer thinks they are ok and climbs on them without checking them. let me know how it goes.
I am not so concerned with that. Most people would wig less than 3 feet off the ground if they got on the routes prior to today considering what shape they were in, heheh :lol: If anything, I might of got a bail biner out of it, heheh :twisted: But with that in mind, Dave and I fixed 4 bad bolts out there and FA'd up two of the 4 routes. There are still 2 projects (one hard ~13a / one not as hard ~11c ish), so please do not get on them yet.
The plan is to use nothing but glue ins from here on out. Maybe 4 more routes on the wall we are curretntly developing, we'll see! It will NEVER be a destination, but with time and alot of TLC it could be fun for 1/2 day stuff for locals!
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texscala
Jul 12, 2004, 7:48 PM
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Have you bouldered at all in Vacaville (I assume that you have) On top of a hill near a street named Windcrest I think, there is an LDS church nearby, there is a large solid rock that could be set up for climbs. The hike really is not to bad and the rock is pretty cool. you might think about setting up some sport routes there.
Also keep us up to date on the rockville climbs progress and post some pictures as well, I would love to see where you guys are setting up routes, and I am in Utah right now so I probably won't be out there for a while.
Good luck on your new routes.
Also there is a tall cliff in rockville that is close to 50ft high that is near the back entrance. we used to climb there quite a bit. there is even a nice crack climb but there were always bee's nests in it so we never climbed it.
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roughster
Jul 12, 2004, 9:26 PM
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In reply to: Have you bouldered at all in Vacaville
I've climbed there "a little" :lol: Ok thats a bad joke. i live 2 blocks from there and am writing the guidebook which the area now holds over 300 problems. :shock: The boulder you are refering to is called the Mother Boulder and it has TR anchors on top that can be accessed by shimmying up the tree on the East Face. I wouldn't bolt it due to its relative short height and rather lackof consistant angle. Most potential "routes" would be overhangin two moves than slab tot he top. Just not worth developing beyond TRs IMO in the middle of a bouldering area.
In reply to: Also keep us up to date on the rockville climbs progress and post some pictures as well, I would love to see where you guys are setting up routes, and I am in Utah right now so I probably won't be out there for a while. Good luck on your new routes. Also there is a tall cliff in rockville that is close to 50ft high that is near the back entrance. we used to climb there quite a bit. there is even a nice crack climb but there were always bee's nests in it so we never climbed it.
Will do. We aren;t going to try and keep it a secret, I just want to make sure that the routes are ready for regular traffic before I start dishing out the complete 411. As you know, the rock can be frightening and the routes are going to take a lot of work before they are ready for mass consumption.
I've hiked around the park all over a few times and pretty sure I know which cliff you're talking about. We're not devloping that one, but the one we are on is of decent height, probably close to 50 feet as well.
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decorator_crab
Jul 12, 2004, 9:34 PM
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Just how bad is the rock at Rockville? I prefer to climb on bullet granite, but will make do with some loose stuff if that's all that's available. :lol:
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roughster
Jul 12, 2004, 9:36 PM
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In reply to: Just how bad is the rock at Rockville? I prefer to climb on bullet granite, but will make do with some loose stuff if that's all that's available. :lol:
Think about that fresh layer of grit and gravel you just got done sticking to the outside of your shell Mr. Decorator. Its about that same consistancy. :lol:
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texscala
Jul 12, 2004, 9:41 PM
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Cool thanks for the info. There were not any TR anchors last time I climbed there but you are probably right that should be enough. I really think it is awsome you are bolting routes in Rockville and can't wait to see what you have done.
I really would love to see pics though and know excactly where you are setting up routes. I climbed out there a ton when I was learning how to climb in like 98 and 99.
Thanks again
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