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rck_climber
May 3, 2002, 3:31 PM
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Hey folks,
Am heading up to Boulder next weekend for a climbing trip and wanted to see what routes you guys think are "MUST-DO's".
We're looking to hit at least 6 pitches of trad - we've got a good rack, so the sky's the limit. Want something in the moderate range for our first long route (longer than 3 pitches).
We're currently considering some routes (Direct East Face) on the First Flatiron, but are open to suggestions. Beta on this route would be appreciated too.
Appreciate your experienced suggestions.
Mick
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tim
May 3, 2002, 3:47 PM
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Check out the Bastille Crack and Ruper at Eldo. Good shit. some pictures from Eldo and Lumpy
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wigglestick
May 3, 2002, 3:58 PM
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I agree Bastille Crack and Ruper are excellent routes. Calypso is also supposed to be a classic. And there are probably 50 more classics in Eldo.
I did the Direct Face on the First Flatiron last weekend and it was super crowded. Get to the base before 9 or plan on waiting in line. Or go after noon. For a rack bring a set of nuts and a set of cams to #3 camalot and a single 60m rope. Every pitch on that route is way runout but easy climbing. The first pitch has 2 bolts and maybe one cam placement in 200 feet. My partner only got one 0.1 microcamalot in the second pitch. The belays have good gear but in between it is rather sparse. We placed maybe 12 pieces total not counting the belays. You may want to consider doing a route like Zig Zag instead. I have never done it but I hear it has better gear, less people and takes amore direct route to the summit. Let me know if you need more specific beta for the Direct Route. It is still fresh in my mind. Or beta for Bastille Crack or Ruper for that matter.
[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2002-05-03 09:01 ]
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killclimbz
May 3, 2002, 4:10 PM
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The East face is nice and is a great introductory outing. You don't need much gear cause it's fairly run out, but easy. Go to Eldo. Ruper and Batille are excellent climbs as mentioned. I highly recommend the Yellow Spur. It's probably my favorite climb there. The fifth pitch is absolutely amazing. The Rewritten, Swanson's Arete, Long John Wall, and Gambit are other worthy outings. 2-3 pitch climbs to check out are Touch and Go, and Over the Hill (among many others). Oh yeah go do the Bulge Wall for a kick in the pants. Layton Kor thought it would be too dangerous of a route so he added a bolt. PM me if you want more detailed info.
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wu-tang
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May 3, 2002, 4:21 PM
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The Yellow Spur! spectacular position, varied climbing, easy pro.
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atg200
May 3, 2002, 4:24 PM
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Save the First Flatiron for a weekday. The route I posted in the database on the Fifth Flatiron is just as good, and no one is ever there. It is quite runout, and 5.4 or so. The Fourth Flatiron also has a great long route with no one ever on it.
If you don't mind driving a little further, everything on Sundance Buttress at Lumpy Ridge is great. Kor's Flake is the best 5.7 in Colorado in my opinion.
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tim
May 3, 2002, 4:56 PM
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Magical Semi-Automatic Chrome Plated Enema Syringe was fun too. Just don't miss the rap anchors, it is an annoying and dangerous walk-off (with raps) if you do .
Lumpy is way cool, I liked the rock better there, but that is because I like granite better than anything :-).
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rck_climber
May 3, 2002, 5:19 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys - keep 'em coming.
I'm cross-referencing all your suggestions w/ the fine folks from http://www.climbingboulder.com too, so thanks.
Mick
[ This Message was edited by: rck_climber on 2002-05-03 10:21 ]
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tim
May 3, 2002, 5:25 PM
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Mmm, I forgot, the reason Ruper was not too crowded is that we climbed on a Friday. It could be a big queue on the weekend. Same for Bastille Crack, if you look in the pictures, you'll see 4 parties on the rock on a weekday.
Still, the sandstone is bullet hard, and the routes are awesome. I like remote granite areas better but I've not been anywhere else that had such great sandstone as Eldo. YMMV.
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iclimbtoo
May 3, 2002, 5:45 PM
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as jabbeaux said, Bastille is probably one of the most coveted climbs in CO. Wind Tower has some good stuff, like Calypso. Also, check out Rewritten and Psycho on the Red Garden Wall, also in Eldorado. In Boulder Canyon I recommend Country Club Crack, on Castle Rock. And then of course any of the Flat Irons...if you can time it, start your rappel right before sunset. It's beautiful!! Oh, and here's a tip if you go there...Eldorado Springs Bottling Co. has it's base right at the entrance to Eldo Canyon. So, just bring some empty Nalgenes and jugs, and for $.25 you can have as much fresh water as you want!! It's good stuff! Places to eat? Beau Jo's pizza!! Wow, it's good!
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polarwid
May 3, 2002, 5:47 PM
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Don't forget REDGUARD ROUTE, 5.7 with a few nice cool positions and a nice exposed final pitch. Usually not too crowded...
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iclimbtoo
May 3, 2002, 6:19 PM
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OH YEAH!!! That's a good one too! Man, I need to go back to Eldo!! I miss it so much! Anyone wanna bum out with me in Eldo next summer? (I'm semi-serious too)
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