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overusing technique
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vaness


May 3, 2002, 4:20 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2001
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overusing technique
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is it pissible to use to much technique and have it hinder your performance? like using it when its not nessasary. like climbing on a 5.7 and all the holds are a foot apart and doing a high step that isnt needed? am i making sense?


jt512


May 3, 2002, 4:38 PM
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The most efficient way up is usually the best. If the high step takes more energy than a simpler, less fancy move, than it is inferior.

It is possible to have an imbalance of technique and strength. Most women (and I) could benefit from more strength. You can technique your way through the 5.11s, but if you want to climb 5.12 you'd better have technique *and* strength.

-Jay


climber_trev


May 5, 2002, 5:08 AM
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yes it is possible.

depending on how far below your max level the climb is i find it possible to do them two ways one the technically correct way, in the sense that you use layoffs higsteps etc or the other way which is simply going up using hte line of least resistance. infact now that i think of it the answer is no, because technique is basically using a method to find the EASIEST way of ascending the rock, which would involve using these layoffs etc when they are nessisary and make it easier.

if not that basically constitues inappropriate or wrong use of a technique!

hope that helps!

climber_trev


metoliusmunchkin


May 7, 2002, 1:31 PM
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That is also one of the more difficult areas of the technique; utilising the technique properly. When it is needed, technique can be very useful, and greatly to your benefit. This applies solely to when it is needed. There is no use for fancy drop knees, figure fours (the oh so controversial one), flagging, etcetera, when climbing a 5.3 slab for instance.

Certain techniques must not be overused, though overall techniques (that is to say the usual straightening of the arms, use of legs rather than arms, the general climbing techniques as such) are to be used as often as possible.

You be the judge. If you are to find a particular section of a climb rather difficult, then perhaps a drop knee of a flag is needed. Though while climbing a less-than-vertical 5.3 with very large holds, none of this is needed.


tygereye


May 9, 2002, 6:52 AM
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No you can't "overuse" technique. It is never unnecessary. You always have a choice of WHICH tech to use. Some routes just provide more options than others.


radistrad


May 9, 2002, 7:32 AM
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like Jt512 I could use more strenght also.
I do beleive that my good technique has allowed me to climb into the 11's w/o being able to do more than 5 pullups.
No I dont think you can over use technique, even that hight step is a certain technique, it may require more leg strength but high stepping is a technique.
My advice for any new climber is to watch and climb on your feet. if you watch every foot hold until you foot is on it you will do well, and stand up on those feet when they have been placed.


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