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jumaringjeff
May 2, 2002, 4:53 PM
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Ahh yes the rack. I've read about them, seen them, but never used one. I hear they are THE ultimate rappelling device.
Here's another topic: Several people I know don't like to rappel on a dynamic rope, claiming the rope stretch (as opposed to the minimal stretch of a static rope) can be dangerous. What's your opinion?
-jj
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laplaya
May 2, 2002, 5:12 PM
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When I know the anchors ar bomber, dynamic doesnt really bother me, but if there is any doubt in my mind about the anchors, I would definatly prefer a static rope, although its not as big of a deal on rappels as it is on jumars, in my opinion.
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coach
May 3, 2002, 6:43 PM
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I personally prefer to use my Tevas for the descent!
Climb On
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fat_tony
May 3, 2002, 7:44 PM
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How is the stretch on a dynamic rope dangerous? Isn't that the whole purpose of the dynamic properties, to stretch...even when stopping on rappel?
I bet they don't mind the stretch so much when they fall 20 ft. when climbing a route!
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beyond_gravity
May 3, 2002, 8:33 PM
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What? I rap with a hip belay
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redox
May 4, 2002, 9:04 AM
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Petzl Reverso is definitely the better way to belay/reppel/back-up ascenders... It does everything you need and is only $20!!
--red0x
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apollodorus
May 4, 2002, 10:15 AM
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ATC. Fig-8 twists the rope too much. If you have a fig-8, then do the double-biner brake instead. Reverse the gates on the two harness biners, then clip rope one so the off-gate side is running.
Figure-8 was way cool, back when it was old school. But now? That twin-throat ATC is happenin', bro. Go large. And keep it real.\
Bro. And Damsels. Love-YA-LOTS. Kiss up, baby, whoa, gotta gettsum.
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laplaya
May 5, 2002, 4:49 AM
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"whoa, gotta getsum"
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iclimbtoo
May 5, 2002, 5:14 AM
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okay, clearing up a question. Why rappel fast? Because it's fun and it's a rush.
Do I do it outdoors? Only if I can reach the ground easily with one rappel.
Gloves? Hell yeah. Allows me to go faster. But, if I had the means for it, I would do like nailzz and melonhead and just base jump!
I don't care what people say...if you're doing an aussie rappel or just going fast and you like a rush, figure 8 is the way to go.
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crackhabit
May 7, 2002, 5:30 PM
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ok, i am a gearhear, tried and true. since i collect repel/belay devices i have three of them. i have and ATC, it was my first, but i dont use it anymore. for repel, i use the trango tower b/c it is the smoothest thing that i have used for the purpose. i dont use it for belay. it does not have the stopping power that my other has.
for belay i us the old stitch (or stic, dont know) plate. i think that thing could stop a bus from falling but is sucks for repel, too grabby.
as for the rack. i have see one but dont own it. i though that it was for spelunkers and i think that it is a controlled descent such that you dont need to hold anything but i dont know.
i will not use nor let anyone use an 8 on my rope.
[ This Message was edited by: crackhabit on 2002-05-07 10:31 ]
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drysdan
May 7, 2002, 6:02 PM
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so has anyone heard of a device called a robot, from Kong? it looks really really cool as a descender, and I think you can belay on it. Anyone know? Have one?
-T
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jumaringjeff
May 7, 2002, 6:16 PM
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I dropped my reverso 70 feet last weekend while setting up TR anchors....'DOH!!!!
-jj
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climbchick
May 7, 2002, 6:28 PM
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I used a borrowed Trango Jaws this past weekend and liked it a lot. I'm all about going as slowly as possible and having maximum friction cuz rappeling scares me. I usually use an ATC but I'm going to switch.
I always wear gloves. When I got to the top of a climb I did this weekend, there was a guy up there who had to be lowered by his party. He had rapped off the 2nd pitch with no gloves, lost control of the rope near the bottom, and had a pretty bad rope burn on his right hand. I had forgotten my gloves but, after seeing that, I had my partner tie them to the end of the injured guy's rope when he pulled it up to tie in (I let his party go down ahead of me).
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ravens_wing_jim
May 7, 2002, 6:33 PM
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Well...I guess I'm old school.
I like my BD super 8 on rappel.
A potential problem to look out for
while rappeling on an 8, is that the
rope can form a girth hitch mid-rappel
and stop you cold.
But I still love my old school 8
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onbelay_osu
May 7, 2002, 6:46 PM
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I honestly perfer 8's when on a desent, i have used everything from a reverso to a stitch plate and 8s glide a lot eaiser for me!!
GRANT
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iclimbtoo
May 7, 2002, 7:26 PM
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I have to say it again, go 8's!!!! ATC's for belaying, but I've used pretty much everything you can name to rap off, and I've never had a problem with my rope being kinked or whatnot. Sorry, I'm just an avid 8 user and advocate!
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laplaya
May 8, 2002, 2:23 AM
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fyi
the rack is a device that alows more control of the decent, but you do need a hand on the rope.
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gravitymaster
May 8, 2002, 2:43 AM
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I like my ATC, always without glove, exept for ice climbing !!! . I'm thinking to buy a reverso, but I'll wait to try one before.
Enjoy !
Gravitymaster
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coldclimb
May 8, 2002, 2:57 AM
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My favorite would be two oval 'biners across a locking biner, because that's the first one I ever learned or used. Not the most effecient or fastest, but I like it. I also rappel without gloves.
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robscate
May 8, 2002, 5:43 AM
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big 'ol beefy rescue '8'
Actually, I prefer an ATC, good smooth descent without to much rope drag.
( I have tried many, many descending devices and found the atc to be the best one)
Rob c
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neenielions
May 8, 2002, 6:10 AM
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i love my trango jaws for belays and rapps from anchor stations. but if im just rapping or doing aussies, i set my static like and then the rescue 8 is the only way to go.
neenielions
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passthepitonspete
May 10, 2002, 12:33 AM
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Double ropes, single ropes, doesn't matter - I use my Gri-gri.
Works swell.
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onbelay_osu
Dec 1, 2003, 5:43 PM
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In reply to: I honestly perfer 8's when on a desent, i have used everything from a reverso to a stitch plate and 8s glide a lot eaiser for me!! GRANT
man i was such a tool not only 2 years ago....man....
btw if you are wondering i have switched my preference i now love to decend on a gri gri :roll:
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jimdavis
Dec 2, 2003, 12:53 AM
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In reply to: I like eights. easier to set up. also they dissipate heat better than an ATC.
If putting a bight though a slot is hard to setup, I'd question your standards here.
Also 8's don't do well at all with heat, they tend to heat up more and hold their heat longer than an ATC. The only reason i can see to ever use on is on big frozen ropes that won't go into an tube belay.
I just use my Reverso for just about everything, but I think the Pyramid is probably the best device out there for rappelling.
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jimdavis
Dec 2, 2003, 12:55 AM
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In reply to: okay, clearing up a question. Why rappel fast? Because it's fun and it's a rush. Do I do it outdoors? Only if I can reach the ground easily with one rappel. Gloves? Hell yeah. Allows me to go faster. But, if I had the means for it, I would do like nailzz and melonhead and just base jump! I don't care what people say...if you're doing an aussie rappel or just going fast and you like a rush, figure 8 is the way to go.
Can you send us pics of your rope when it gets glazzed over from going to fast and melts the sheath?
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