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Bolting ethics
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laplaya


May 6, 2002, 9:27 AM
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Registered: May 22, 2001
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Bolting ethics
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The thread on red tape got me thinking...I want some feedback from experienced bolters.
I have a nice drill and a few bolts and hangers. I am ready to start developing routes, but I am a bit concerned about bolting ethics. I do not want to put up a route that is not worth climbing. I do not want to space bolts to far apart or to close together. I dont want to create any harsh rope rub or possible pendelum swings that would be dangerous. I have been trad climbing for a while and often feel more comfortable on my own placements then i do on the bolltss of established routes. Sometimes hangers spin...I have a friend that broke one (yes, actual stainless-steel, factory made climbing hangers can break!) I want to put up safe routes and routes that will be fun to climb. I read in the "red tape" forum about people scrubing a face, all the work they put into a route, etc and I was sortof bothered... Should we really be scrubing the rock to clean it? My idea of cleaning a route is to remove dangerously loose rock from the face. Thats it. Isnt it compromising the rock and trying to bring it down to our level to do more? I think that is like making the rock something that it was not. Shoudnt we leave all dirt/ plants/ trees/ behives/ etc on the rock and climb around them?

Let me know what you think

LaPlaya


howitzer


May 6, 2002, 10:11 AM
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Bolting ethics [In reply to]
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Laplaya - You say that you are ready to develop routes but do not know much about bolting ethics ~ I'd say you're not quite ready to develop them, so please keep the drill at home for now until you can go set routes with someone who has experience!
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Quote: I have been trad climbing for a while and often feel more comfortable on my own placements then i do on the bolltss of established routes.
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Then why not stick to trad rather than start bolting routes? Keep it simple!
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Quote: I was sortof bothered... Should we really be scrubing the rock to clean it? My idea of cleaning a route is to remove dangerously loose rock from the face. Thats it. Isnt it compromising the rock and trying to bring it down to our level to do more? I think that is like making the rock something that it was not.
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Then what does bolting do? Is it not inherently 'bad' for the rock to drill into it??? It's good that you are concerned about setting up a bad route, not doing it correctly etc., but then you seem so concerned about the 'environment' of the rock which would be best left alone period and not bolted. Seems a bit contradictory to me - I'd say leave it bro.
Just my $0.02


laplaya


May 6, 2002, 10:21 AM
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Registered: May 22, 2001
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hey man, thanks for the feed-back
I would not bolt for myself at all.
But seeing that I am one of two people that I know who has trad gear and there are only a few other ppl who climb trad at all. Most climbers here climb sport/ toprope with bolt anchors exclusively here. One of the two people who set the routes that we curently have has gone back to the US. My interest are to build the climbing comunity here and eventually start a gear store. There are curently few climbers


Partner iclimbtoo


May 6, 2002, 12:05 PM
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Laplaya, actually I have wondered the same types of things myself about cleaning the rock and whatnot and I would have to disagree with howitzer and say that if you're showing concern about bolting ethics, that is the first step in getting the type of people we NEED to be bolting routes rather than some of the idiots that are out there now! I have never bolted a climb, and don't plan on ever doing it, but I think that it's something that should be done with (as you're apparently showing) extreme care and caution, and with good climbing ethics in mind. My advice would be to find someone who has bolted routes before, explain your concerns and ideas to them, and then together bolt the route. That way you can see what kind of things to do and such. Good luck!


crackaddict


May 6, 2002, 12:42 PM
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I have a trad background as well and found it hard when to bolt my first route.
I probably put too much time into one route but I want to make sure it is quality and good before I do it. I wanted it to be safe but not over bolted. Cleaning is cleaning. Be responsible for your route. If there is loose rock and it posess threat. Get rid of it. Or if the route is just choss. Then bag it. It will never be a good route.
Think of the best routes you have done. Thats the kind of route you should look for. I have been on some routes that feel like someone just pounded bolts in the wall because it was there. These routes suck! And I never do them again. Be known for the routes that people like.
Thats all I have to say!


laplaya


May 10, 2002, 11:24 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2001
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I bolted my first route this week and I see what people are talking about when they say its alot of work! Fun stuff though. I had another quick question...if a bolt messes up and for some reason you cant use a bolt, how close to it can you put its replacement?


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