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Breaking the Pattern/Verbalizing Intention
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dredsovrn


Jul 22, 2004, 7:27 AM
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Breaking the Pattern/Verbalizing Intention
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Both my partner and I lead. I have been pulling more leads and pushing my limits, but found myself taking the comfort zone of the follow too easily. Many times, my partner would lead a route, and I would follow then I would lead a route/pitch or two and then follow the rest of the day.

My partner always wants to lead so it was easy for me to just let him go. I decided that it is time to break the pattern. I had been thinking about it for a week or so. I thought I should start the next climbing day by leading the first 4 or 5 routes right out of the box.

The next time we went out, he was ready to rock, and I let him go. I called my partner the next day and said next time I had to lead at least the first 4 routes or pitches of whatever we ended up climbing. I felt that verbalizing it would force me into action and keep me from letting it slide, and it will.

Rained out on the last two opportunities. Hoping for better weather and looking forward to breaking the pattern this weekend.


iamthewallress


Jul 22, 2004, 5:09 PM
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Re: Breaking the Pattern/Verbalizing Intention [In reply to]
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One of the things that Hans Florine recommends in his speed climbing book is having one person lead an entire route (he's assuming very long routes) and then just trading whose day it is to lead. The idea is that once you get your lead head on you can keep it on and the rests are more evenly spaced as well.

I've adopted this idea more or less in my climbing. My boyfriend climbs a lot harder than I do, so when we climb together it's either going to be a day where I work on being the most efficient follower I can be or push my limits on TR or a day where I lead the whole shebang. There are some routes that are too long or hard for me to lead without swinging, but usually it works out well this way. I can bring my best leading or following mentality out and focus on improving it without stepping in and out of lead mode. If the expectation is that I'm leading everything, it's easier for me to stick to that plan if I don't exit into the comfort zone of following mode at all.


unabonger


Jul 23, 2004, 5:33 AM
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Re: Breaking the Pattern/Verbalizing Intention [In reply to]
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I felt that verbalizing it would force me into action and keep me from letting it slide, and it will.

This is a proven psychological technique.

The North Koreans and Chinese were masters of it in the Korean War against POW's. They made American prisoners write and announce that they were traitors, that they were now loyal to the North. It turned POW's against each other and ellicited large intelligence gains against the US.

There is a strong drive in most people to be consistant with our words, (especially when they are written). So when you write down your intentions, you are more likely to follow through on them.

UB


Partner justin


Aug 13, 2004, 4:25 AM
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Andrew,

I have a similar problem too. One of my partners is a lot better than me and I do sometimes feel bad about having him hang around while I bumble up routes.

Next time we're going to climb together I'll explain these feelings but tell him I need to be leading at least 40% of our chosen climbs.

Cheers for the heads up on that suggestion, I'll let you guys know how things get on.

J


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