|
calfcramp
Jul 22, 2004, 12:34 PM
Post #1 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
Hi All,
Going to Rumney for the first time this monday coming and there are a few things I want to clear up:
Where do you get the parking pass they say you need in the guidebook? I don`t want my new ride towed...
Where exactly is that nice lady`s house who will let you camp on her land for a few bucks? Or would those in the know recommend somewhere better to camp? I'm only staying til Wed, but a shower might feel good at some point.
Any other suggestions are appreciated. I don`t want to commit too many faux-pas...
Thanks to those with useful info.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 22, 2004, 12:48 PM
Post #2 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8880
|
You can buy a daily parking pass right at the Rumney parking lot, $3 per day U.S. The envelopes and collection tube are self explanatory.
The house is the closest one to the parking lot and across the street. The mailbox says "Camara" and there is a horseshoe driveway; be sure to check in before 9PM. Just knock on the door on the far left. Thespot is very nice, down by the river and away from the road. There is a porta-potty, but no shower. The swimming hole (downstream about 120 yards by some large rocks) is good for rinsing off, but don't use soap.
Have fun!
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 22, 2004, 12:49 PM
Post #3 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8880
|
edge moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 22, 2004, 12:51 PM
Post #4 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8880
|
Also, you can buy a guide, chalk, and munchies at the general store. When in the center of town, go straight for 1/4 mile instead of turning left on Buffalo Road. The store will be on your left.
|
|
|
|
|
calfcramp
Jul 22, 2004, 1:05 PM
Post #5 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
This is all good stuff! Keep 'em comin...
|
|
|
|
|
calfcramp
Jul 23, 2004, 6:43 AM
Post #6 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
Just wanted to get this back to the top of the list...
Any good suggestions for routes for a 5.9 climber? I'm a little weak on the steep stuff, but I got my stick clip all ready....
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 23, 2004, 7:10 AM
Post #7 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8880
|
The best 5.9's are Men in White Suits, Yoda, Space, Couch Potato, Bolt and Run (9+), and Dolt (long, but my fave 5.9 sport route ever).
Lots of good 8's and under at the Meadows and left end of the 5.8 Crag.
|
|
|
|
|
calfcramp
Jul 23, 2004, 7:48 AM
Post #8 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
Fantastic! Ì've got the guidebook and marked all the climbs I want to try, but I don't remember 'Dolt'. I'm there!
Nice furniture by the way...
Thanks again
-C
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Jul 23, 2004, 7:56 AM
Post #9 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3468
|
Check out the Routes Database on this site for more information on climbs. Rumney is a great spot for sport climbing. Try to stick to the well used routes in order to save you finger tips. Schist, expecially on new routes, is very sharp. Unless otherwise posted, the Main Cliff is closed until the Felcons are through using it. No worries, there are many other places to climb. So not to waste your day hiking, try to plan your climbs close togeather. You'll soon see that the hiking can take up a lot of your energy and time. Be Safe and Have A Blast!
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 23, 2004, 8:07 AM
Post #10 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8880
|
The Main Cliff is now open.
|
|
|
|
|
shakylegs
Jul 23, 2004, 8:26 AM
Post #11 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 4772
|
Even though it's a 5.9, I would suggest you avoid Obi-Won (next to Yoda), unless you're solid and confident on that grade. If you miss a clip under the roof, you're decking hard, and I'd hate to see the results.
Masterpiece (or is it Centrepiece? I always mix those two up) on Bonzai is a really nice, very comfortable 10 to try, as is Lonesome Dove.
|
|
|
|
|
calfcramp
Jul 23, 2004, 9:35 AM
Post #12 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
I`m reasonably confident on 5.9 and have managed to pull off a couple 5.10as and bs..... but all vert climbs, not the steep stuff.
I'll let my gut make the call when I'm there. The steep starts have me semi-concerned. I'll be stick clipping. Gettin' giddy!!!
|
|
|
|
|
superfox
Jul 24, 2004, 2:47 PM
Post #13 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 141
|
If you want another recommendation for a camping area, Plymouth Sands campgrounds is about 10 minutes away from the crags. I just spent two weeks there and after you get past the trailers, mullets, and bumper stickers reading "Keep honking, I'm reloading", it's not too bad. Baker River goes right by it and most campsites are within fifty feet of the beach and river. It's probably more expensive than the woman's house, but each site comes with a picnic table, fire pit, and there are coin-operated showers and flush toilets. You'll most likely pass it when you're driving to Rumney (it'll be on the leftshortly after you go through the "Smith Millennium Bridge"). Good luck.
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Jul 24, 2004, 6:14 PM
Post #14 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3468
|
To add to campsites, check here http://rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=576
|
|
|
|
|
burundanga
Jul 24, 2004, 7:29 PM
Post #15 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 30, 2003
Posts: 15
|
The really good 5.9's that i have done at ney are, Egg McMeadows, Lies and Pro da, Mr.Popular (the start is a bit hard, bring out your stick clip for that one), and Masterpice (it is a ten, but, it is one of my favorites out there) So good luck out there and have a hell of a time.
|
|
|
|
|
calfcramp
Jul 26, 2004, 3:34 AM
Post #16 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
Okay! Off I go, the car's all packed and I'm leaving! Thanks for all the tips. Maybe I'll have a few pics when I get back.
Wish me/us luck!
-C :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
vano
Aug 5, 2004, 5:07 PM
Post #17 of 17
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2004
Posts: 10
|
this comes obviously way too late, but I'd definitely add Lies and Propaganda as one of the best 9's at Rumney. Hope you got a chance to try it :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
|
