|
mumarkz
Jul 25, 2004, 3:42 AM
Post #1 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2004
Posts: 39
|
Hi All,
Just looking for tips on improving Balance and Technique. I find I am trying to "pull" myself up the wall. I can't seem to use my feet as well I should.
Are there any training techniques to improve balance? Any mental tricks I can use while climbing to ensure I am using my feet?
Thanks for any tips,
Z
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Jul 25, 2004, 3:54 AM
Post #2 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
As far as balance goes, you might try slacklining. :) It helps to look at your feet while climbing too, to improve technique.
|
|
|
|
|
rjavery10
Jul 25, 2004, 5:02 AM
Post #3 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 105
|
Find a low angle wall in your gym. Usually this is the wall full of noobs and kids parties.
Anyway, get on the wall and climb without using your hands at all. Don't go higher than 5 feet or so just traverse but get in at least 3 upward moves high. This will get you used to using your feet real fast.
Also, try to climb with looking at your feet and attempt to make your feet make no noise. Quiet climbing is usually good technique at work.
|
|
|
|
|
lv2climb7
Jul 25, 2004, 5:06 AM
Post #4 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2004
Posts: 164
|
555
|
|
|
|
|
skinnyjim
Jul 25, 2004, 6:01 AM
Post #5 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2003
Posts: 138
|
I second the slacklining and the quiet feet...
|
|
|
|
|
texasclimber
Jul 26, 2004, 1:33 AM
Post #6 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 821
|
I don't think slacklining really helps much for climbing. Yes, its fun but isn't a great "cross-trainer" for climbing balance (IMHO). For inproved balance, try to feel how your body is moving over the rock. You said that you are pulling your way up...so concentrate on your footholds then pushing with your legs. Slab routes would be good practice too. That is what worked for me as I had the same problem. If you haven't slacklined yet, try that too...for fun though.
|
|
|
|
|
jgill
Jul 26, 2004, 1:55 AM
Post #8 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653
|
Get outside and do no-hands bouldering problems. These used to be popular 45 years ago, but nowadays, since they don't appear on the ubiquitous V-scale, few do them. It's great fun and very good for your balance and footwork. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
skinnyjim
Jul 26, 2004, 2:13 AM
Post #9 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2003
Posts: 138
|
In reply to: Get outside and do no-hands bouldering problems. These used to be popular 45 years ago, but nowadays, since they don't appear on the ubiquitous V-scale, few do them. It's great fun and very good for your balance and footwork. 8^)
Too true.. We found a good one at Castle Hill....
|
|
|
|
|
dredsovrn
Jul 26, 2004, 2:29 AM
Post #10 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
|
It sounds more like you need to learn to trust your feet. Early on when I had trouble with this, I decided not to move my hand until I knew where my foot would go. Then I tried to use as little hand/arm strength as possible.
For balance and climbing together, vertical faces and slaps are tough to beat.
|
|
|
|
|
mumarkz
Jul 26, 2004, 3:16 AM
Post #11 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2004
Posts: 39
|
Thanks for the replies - climbed quite a bit today - looking down at my feet most of the time!
Thanks again,
Z
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 26, 2004, 4:00 AM
Post #12 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
This exercise might not work well in the gym because you have too few options for footholds, but I find it very useful outdoors. I got it from Arno Ilgner's book The Rock Warrior's Way. The exercise takes advantage of the fact that we intuitively know how to stay in balance. The problem is that sometimes we don't listen to our intuition, but instead second guess ourselves. When you climb, pay attention to where your eyes go when you need to move a foot. What you should notice is that your eyes first go to where your foot needs to go to keep you in balance. To convince yourself of this, put your foot right where your eyes first go. Even if there doesn't appear to be a foothold there, put your foot right there anyway. Then shift your weight over that foot and push with that leg. What you'll find is that can easily climb in balance with your weight over that foot, even though the foothold your eyes picked out might be small or even non-existent.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
seafood_meowmix
Jul 26, 2004, 4:19 AM
Post #13 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 63
|
In reply to: I don't think slacklining really helps much for climbing. Yes, its fun but isn't a great "cross-trainer" for climbing balance (IMHO). For inproved balance, try to feel how your body is moving over the rock. You said that you are pulling your way up...so concentrate on your footholds then pushing with your legs. Slab routes would be good practice too. That is what worked for me as I had the same problem. If you haven't slacklined yet, try that too...for fun though.
Slacklining WILL improve your balance, It's probably the worst way mentioned so far to improve your balance but it is the most fun of any technique mentioned, and it is the first thing I would try.
The biggest reason I slackline is to improve my balance for skiing
8^) Ahh, skiing. The only thing better than climbing 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
cgranite
Jul 26, 2004, 4:26 AM
Post #14 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2003
Posts: 366
|
rjavery10 is right. do what he said and slackline I guess.
You should be looking at your feet more than your hands. It will train your mind to do that.
NO HANDS!
|
|
|
|
|
texasclimber
Jul 26, 2004, 4:41 AM
Post #15 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 821
|
In reply to: In reply to: I don't think slacklining really helps much for climbing. Yes, its fun but isn't a great "cross-trainer" for climbing balance (IMHO). For inproved balance, try to feel how your body is moving over the rock. You said that you are pulling your way up...so concentrate on your footholds then pushing with your legs. Slab routes would be good practice too. That is what worked for me as I had the same problem. If you haven't slacklined yet, try that too...for fun though. Slacklining WILL improve your balance, It's probably the worst way mentioned so far to improve your balance but it is the most fun of any technique mentioned, and it is the first thing I would try. The biggest reason I slackline is to improve my balance for skiing 8^) Ahh, skiing. The only thing better than climbing 8^)
I didn't say it wouldn't inprove your balance...you are standing on webbing suspended in the air, sure it will help your blance. BUt as far as helping you climb better...I haven't experienced ANY gain by slacklining.
|
|
|
|
|
ashmoo
Jul 26, 2004, 4:42 AM
Post #16 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 21
|
Slab climbing.
If there is any slab climbing accessible to you, do it. The longer the better.
Slab climbing teaches foot balance, and more importantly in my opinion, foot trust.
|
|
|
|
|
seafood_meowmix
Jul 26, 2004, 4:49 AM
Post #17 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 63
|
In reply to: In reply to: I don't think slacklining really helps much for climbing. Yes, its fun but isn't a great "cross-trainer" for climbing balance (IMHO). For inproved balance, try to feel how your body is moving over the rock. You said that you are pulling your way up...so concentrate on your footholds then pushing with your legs. Slab routes would be good practice too. That is what worked for me as I had the same problem. If you haven't slacklined yet, try that too...for fun though. Once again, I won't allow myself to be sucked in. :lol: :lol: *restrain...... must... restrain.....*
Restrain, damn why can't I.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jul 26, 2004, 5:53 AM
Post #18 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
slacklining and slab climbing seem to be the best ways, but any other ex that requires balance also works well.
one thing you can easily do is to get two boards and nail them together so htey form a T. then try to stand on hte top board of the T. its not as easy as it sounds. to make things even more interesting you can round the bottom boards end.
|
|
|
|
|
k1srfr
Jul 28, 2004, 1:23 PM
Post #19 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2004
Posts: 23
|
Hey NooB,
Just do more bicep curls at home. You will eventually get strong enough...
:wink:
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Jul 28, 2004, 2:42 PM
Post #20 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
The best advice I put into practice as a noob was this (best for easier stuff):
Don't move your hands up to the next handhold until they are even with your waist. Put another way, step up higher than "natural" while maintaining the same handholds. You'd be amazed how well you stick to the wall, even if it feels awkward, initially.
It helps get over the mentality of "I have find a higher handhold, now!"
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jul 28, 2004, 3:16 PM
Post #21 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
In reply to: Get outside and do no-hands bouldering problems. These used to be popular 45 years ago, but nowadays, since they don't appear on the ubiquitous V-scale, few do them. It's great fun and very good for your balance and footwork. 8^)
I love the no hands boulder problems! You can even lead some very easy trad climbs with no hands as well. It's great for footwork.
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Jul 28, 2004, 4:00 PM
Post #22 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
In reply to: I love the no hands boulder problems! You can even lead some very easy trad climbs with no hands as well. It's great for footwork.
Yeah, but placing good gear with just your teeth is a b**ch...
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 28, 2004, 4:38 PM
Post #23 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
The above advice is good, but will only take you so far. Most people use their feet reasonably well (can always be improved) on slabs, but their footwork falls apart when the body-positioning gets funky or the rock gets overhanging.
Here's one for inside corners: Go to your neighborhood gym and find a straight-up inside corner (dihedral). Climb it using holds only for your feet. Your hands may only lean against the wall - no holds.
And one for vertical walls and overhangs: Traverse using only three fingers from each hand. Once you can do that, drop to two from each hand, and then finally one (if possible). I promise, you'll learn damn fast how to keep your weight over your feet.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
andy_reagan
Jul 28, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #24 of 43
(7923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
|
In reply to: And one for vertical walls and overhangs: Traverse using only three fingers from each hand. Once you can do that, drop to two from each hand, and then finally one (if possible). I promise, you'll learn damn fast how to keep your weight over your feet.
This sounds like a good way to spring a tendon.
|
|
|
|
|
sespegorilla
Aug 8, 2004, 9:00 AM
Post #25 of 43
(7559 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 28
|
Like most beginers, I used to try and pull myself up everything. I'd get pumped and gassed pretty quick. Then my friend turned me on to a storm drain down at the bottom of a barrenca near my home where someone had bondoed up a bunch of river and beach rocks. The long vertical stretch of wall made for a good traverse and within a month I noticed improvement in my ballance and footwork. Instead of trying to pull the whole damm problum down on top of me and burning out my arms in 20 minutes, I found I could climb longer and more efficiently. In fact I still train there.
sesgo.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
