|
climb14er
Jul 27, 2004, 3:23 PM
Post #1 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 152
|
This past weekend, one of my climbing buddies Ryan and I backpacked into The Wilson group of mountains near Telluride and we climbed Mt. Wilson and El Diente peaks for numbers 58 and 59. There are actually 54 'official' Fourteeners but in climbing circles, an additional five are included. Tough ice, rain and snow conditions.
Here'a a link to pics: .
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ryanbadtke/album?.dir=/2ae8&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ryanbadtke/my_photos
I needed a shave and shower big time after the three day climb. I'm also quite a bit sore from taking a nasty bang to my hip where I had a previous severe injury.
Ah, getting older...
Jerry S.
|
|
|
|
|
easton
Jul 27, 2004, 3:27 PM
Post #2 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2004
Posts: 250
|
Great job! I am going to bag my first 14'er next week. Any suggestions for a new guy? Is there a list/guidebook of all 59 14ers you mentioned?
|
|
|
|
|
climb14er
Jul 27, 2004, 3:38 PM
Post #3 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Go buy Gerry Roach's 14er book and/or Lou Dawson's two 14er books. If you want the original, get Robert Ormes' book on the Colorado Mountains.
|
|
|
|
|
timpanogos
Jul 27, 2004, 4:05 PM
Post #4 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
|
Super congradulations! wow, what an accomplishment!
chad
|
|
|
|
|
mother_sheep
Jul 27, 2004, 4:11 PM
Post #5 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 3984
|
Great work Jerry!
I'm working on a similar goal. I'm going to do all the 14'ers via the walkup routes and also climb all the 14'er with technical routes technically.
So far I've done 19 walkups and 4 climbs. I've got a long way to go.
Did you have any issues accessing Culebra?
|
|
|
|
|
climb14er
Jul 27, 2004, 4:26 PM
Post #6 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Tracy:
I climbed Culebra many years ago before the CMC had to negotiate for very limited access. I would like to return there again as I have been re-doing the classic and special peaks but there is a huge waiting line already forming. I've had some friends the past year(s) gain special access but this is hard to come by.
If you've read Roach and Dawson, there are so many technical and not-so-standard routes to the 14ers. The two standard routes on Mt. Wilson and El Diente along with a half dozen other peaks are kick ass routes, even more so when you put ice, snow and lots of water on them. Third class moves become rather uber-dicey to say the least.
Good luck on your climbs.
Jerry
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Jul 27, 2004, 4:29 PM
Post #7 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
my brother finished all of them last year, and my did did about two weeks ago. i'm at 30, but the last ones will go slower since i don't live there anymore.
pm me if you need culebra pirate beta :twisted: not going to put it on the web.
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Jul 27, 2004, 5:02 PM
Post #8 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
Nice job. Now go back and do them all again as winter ascents :evil: or start working on the highest 100 or 200. I've bagged 34 14ers and 45 of the highest 200. A lot of the high 13ers are far more rewarding, fun, and crowd free than the majority of the 14ers.
|
|
|
|
|
climb14er
Jul 27, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #9 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 152
|
I've already done sixteen as winter ascents. Some multiple times and not the easy walk-ups either.
BTW, I don't bag peaks, I climb or hike them. Personally, I detest the word 'bag'.
No more lists for me..
BTW, I've also been up on most of the more difficult 13ers. Dallas, Arrow, Vestal, Trinities, etc.
Thank you for your suggestions.
|
|
|
|
|
johnhemlock
Jul 27, 2004, 5:42 PM
Post #10 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 311
|
In reply to: Nice job. Now go back and do them all again as winter ascents :evil: or start working on the highest 100 or 200. I've bagged 34 14ers and 45 of the highest 200. A lot of the high 13ers are far more rewarding, fun, and crowd free than the majority of the 14ers.
Jeez, Killjoy. Why not just tell him to put a plastic bag over his head and pretend he's on K2?
|
|
|
|
|
climb14er
Jul 27, 2004, 6:10 PM
Post #11 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Thank you, Sir.
I'm getting more gentlemanly as I get a little older. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Jul 27, 2004, 9:21 PM
Post #12 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
In reply to: In reply to: Nice job. Now go back and do them all again as winter ascents :evil: or start working on the highest 100 or 200. I've bagged 34 14ers and 45 of the highest 200. A lot of the high 13ers are far more rewarding, fun, and crowd free than the majority of the 14ers. Jeez, Killjoy. Why not just tell him to put a plastic bag over his head and pretend he's on K2?
:roll: Right over your head.
In reply to: I've already done sixteen as winter ascents. Some multiple times and not the easy walk-ups either. BTW, I don't bag peaks, I climb or hike them. Personally, I detest the word 'bag'. No more lists for me.. BTW, I've also been up on most of the more difficult 13ers. Dallas, Arrow, Vestal, Trinities, etc. |
|
|
|
|
dredsovrn
Jul 27, 2004, 9:27 PM
Post #13 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
|
Congratulations. I guess your name is appropriate.
|
|
|
|
|
sharpie
Jul 27, 2004, 10:16 PM
Post #14 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
|
Did that include Sunlight Spire? If so, how was that climb?
|
|
|
|
|
climb14er
Jul 27, 2004, 10:56 PM
Post #15 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 152
|
When I was in Chicago Basin two years ago, at the same time as the Missionary Ridge fire in mid June, we were pushed to climb the 14ers there and get out of the basin before they shut down the trains. We were on the second to last train out of valley. Needless to say, I had a darn good close look at The Spire and would like to go back with a good climbing partner and climb it.
I believe that The Spire just got rated to 14K later in that same summer. Am I correct? I would think that the grade on it would be 5.8-5-10 somewhere in that range, eh?
So if The Spire is now oficially 14K, this means that I 'need' this peak as well? I haven't read in any of the CMC postings or elsewhere that The Spire is now official. Only that revised elevation lists this as a 'gain' in elevation. If this is the case, I doubt if any 'normal' 14er aficionado will be able to climb it.
Your thoughts?
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Jul 27, 2004, 10:58 PM
Post #16 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
has sunlight spire been free climbed? i thought it was an aid route.
|
|
|
|
|
sharpie
Jul 27, 2004, 11:30 PM
Post #17 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
|
Well, it certainly will spice things up a little. It has been freed and currently sits at a stout 5.10. I'd say 99% of the folks who are "baggers" will, if SS is confirmed, never accomplish their goal. I imagine because of that there will be many who will try desperately to find justifiable reasons (or excuses) why it should not be considered. Word on the street is that Roach is questioning the 300' above saddle "rule". Here's what I've heard:
In June 2002 the United States Geodetic Survey released revised figures of the altitudes of mountains in Colorado. GPS and satellite datum revision showed most figures to be in error of about five to ten feet short of true.
Sunlight Spire sits on a very jagged block ridge between Sunlight Peak and Windom Peak in the San Juan Needles. The summit rises over 300 feet from the Sunlight saddle, and is 0.35 miles away from the summit of Sunlight Peak. The summit is a 40 foot tall vertical obelisk of grey granite, split by a thin crack first climbed using aid, rated a hard 5.10 by climbers who have freeclimbed it.
This summit is not reachable by casual "peak baggers" and that fact is sure to cause controversy about if it should be considered a separate peak and newly recognised 14,000 foot summit. It meets vertical altitude rise requirements, almost meets distance separation requirements, and if Ellingwood Peak, Challenger Point and North Maroon Peak are considered separate peaks, then application of their criteria demands Sunlight Spire be included as a separate and newly recognised peak.
Traverse from Sunlight Peak to Sunlight Spire has not been accomplished (2002) and will become the fifth, and most difficult great traverses between Colorado Fourteeners. The traverse may include Windom Peak, and thus the only technical three-Fourteener-peak connection in Colorado.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
