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caveclimber


May 7, 2002, 9:21 AM
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Are there any good tricks to self Belay? I climb alone alot and don't like to just do the small climbs and boulder. What tricks are there to do this? If any!


cajunclimbere


May 7, 2002, 9:33 AM
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As far as tricks go I cant help you out but I just bought some more gear and saw something about self belay devices hope this helps some.
http://art1.candor.com/fpage/doc/climbs.htm

Climb hard and safe


radistrad


May 7, 2002, 9:39 AM
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If you can rappel into the routes you can fix lines and use a ascender type device (there are may topics on this) to climb back up with. This would be a top rope slef belay.
I have though of doing this on a 5 pitch route, but have not done it yet.

Just a thought, you should check out the other topics on self belay, I and lots of others have written lots on Top Rope self belay


sistersboulderingarea


May 7, 2002, 1:07 PM
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The Petzel Shunt is a great device for that it runs about 40 bucks at your local gear shop and less on the net.

Also a RopeMan (dont know the company) is good on a fixed line, but takes a lot more babying than the Shunt.

The Shunt is rad! both lines go through it so you dont need a knot at the top (on your anchor). Also, a Nalgene half full is enough weight to make sure the rope runs throught the device. Check it out!!


jdcox_9


May 7, 2002, 1:23 PM
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sistersboulderingarea,

I don't understand this part about the 1/2 full Nalgene. Could you explain this?


gravitymaster


May 7, 2002, 1:36 PM
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The Nalgene is for adding some weight, so the rope feed by itself in the belay device when you are on top rope.

I use the silent partner http://www.wrenindustries.com/silentpart_home.html when I climb solo. It is really expensive, but you can trust it, on lead or on top rope. It will also catch a fall head first. I would tell you to read in the forums about it and the other self belay device. Then look at the type of climbing you are doing and the budget you have! Wren Industries make three type of self belay device, for different kind of climbing. But many climber climb with other, cheapper, device, and are still in life !

Solo on and stay safe !
Gravitymaster

[ Ce Message a ÚtÚ ÚditÚ par: gravitymaster le 2002-05-07 13:38 ]


sistersboulderingarea


May 7, 2002, 6:34 PM
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With the Shunt as you climb up something has to pull the rope through the device untill you get high enough that the rope weight does it for you. This is really hard to explain.

Say your have an acender, well, basicaly thats what your doing accept your hands are on the rock, the acender doesnt very well pull itself up the rope, either the rope has to be tied to the ground or have some weight on it.

I was trying to point out that the Shunt is a good device becuase you dont have to tie your entire pack to the bottom of the rope.

Nalgene is a company the makes the coolest water bottle on the planet, they also have a good line of water purification. I hope you got that, im a little confused now.


Partner iclimbtoo


May 7, 2002, 6:48 PM
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As for soloing, I am a beginner, so I just TR a single line and use a grigri. I tie catastrophe knots every so often and it works.


sistersboulderingarea


May 7, 2002, 7:16 PM
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I had a conversation with a friend about this last night.

The GriGri is not designed for that. Its desinged to have a hand on the break. In that respect I applaud for tying back ups!!


johnhenry


May 7, 2002, 8:04 PM
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The ushiba titanium basic ascender is the bomb. It feeds smooth and no sharp teeth to bite the rope. Just bottom anchor your rope for ease of use.

Also the petzl mini-traxion is the smoothest ever TR self-belay but it has teeth.
Rock ON! John

[ This Message was edited by: johnhenry on 2002-05-07 20:05 ]


jtcronk


May 7, 2002, 9:45 PM
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I use the Rock Exotica Soloist. I think it's now the Wren Soloist. Same thing, different company name. It's great for leading. It auto-feeds well, no real issues. Just make sure you set your beginning (belay) anchors properly, i.e. direction of pull, equalized, etc. I'd definitely recommend this or the Silent Partner over any of the other methods. They are actually designed for soloing, versus using ascenders and stuff. If you're on a really tight budget, you can also use the clove hitch method. Kind of a pain in the a$$ though. If you have any other questions, feel free to send me a message.


apollodorus


May 7, 2002, 10:37 PM
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All good ideas. My only suggestion is to back up whatever you use with something else. You can't really back up the nice, new rope you use, but you should double-up on the belay device. A prusik knot above the device will work, but you'll have to fool with getting the rope to go through. Unless you've weighted the bottom of the rope in a toprope situation.

Make sure you tie in on the rope occasionally. You tie in on the slack end of the rope as you go. That way, if your system fails, you're still clipped.

Redundancy: the choice of a new generation.



caveclimber


May 8, 2002, 4:36 AM
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Thanks for all the help and suggestions I will try some out this weekend.


miagi


May 8, 2002, 9:52 AM
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Well, as I have recieved many a people yelling at me, I will not post the link to my self belay article. If you would like to read it and use it as a basis for your own self belay techniques, PM me and I will send you the link.


rockunderfoot


May 8, 2002, 10:57 AM
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Hehe, I've TR'd using an ATC and 11mm rope with tying backup slip-knots now and again I tried a fall with slack in the line and no knots, and hit the deck , so make sure you have backup knots! Getting used to pulling up the slack takes some practice too. Make sure to stay on lower level stuff at first.


bulldog


May 8, 2002, 11:09 AM
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rockunderfoot - man, and I thought I was a little bit crazy. You got me beat!

Bulldog


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