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crack technique and hands pain
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mauta


May 7, 2002, 10:53 AM
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crack technique and hands pain
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Hi,

when climbing a crack, i find myself looking for HOLDS inside the crack for my hands. Of course, many times there are no holds, so you have to lock your hand inside the crack (as if it is an stopper, he he), as i have seen many times in climbing books´s drawings.
However, I MUST ADMIT THAT I CANNOT TOLERATE THE PAIN WHEN TRYING TO DO THIS !!

Any tips?

JUAN


pmagistro


May 7, 2002, 11:29 AM
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Grin and bear it. It's rare to come down from a day of crack climbing without having lost some blood.

Tape helps too....actually might help you jam better. Just through a wrap around your hand. No need to get fancy, unless you are a real wimp.


Partner tim


May 7, 2002, 11:36 AM
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Practice makes perfect. I used to tear the s--- out of my hands in cracks, now it feels like second nature. I don't tape as much as I used to, either.

I feel like it's akin to overgripping when you first start leading. Sooner or later you either develop better technique, or do something else.

It's always going to hurt a little when you hang your body weight off of a clenched fist or jammed hand; the degree to which it hurts depends on how difficult/steep the crack is, how well your appendages fit into the crack, and how good your technique is. Can't do much about the first two, but practice will improve the 3rd issue enormously.

Taping effectively is a good idea if you're climbing at Josh or somewhere with similarly cheese-grater rock. And I don't much recommend jamming in basalt cracks (unless you greatly enjoy pain and suffering). But with your average granite splitter, it's really a matter of practice how well you do.



indigo_nite


May 7, 2002, 11:38 AM
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hi Mauta, I'm not trying to push metolius but there's a "how to" description in their latest catalogue on how to create reusable tape gloves.

see http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/catalog.htm

otherwise, I'm pretty sure you can search for other tips on taping on the web. Cracks aren't my favorite because of the skin they take off but I do like practicing placing gear in them. good luck.


hyhuu


May 7, 2002, 12:32 PM
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Yupe. Tape will help. Get someone to teach you about proper crack techniques and practice them on a not so overhang route. The pain will be neglegible once you learn the techniques. And make sure you have decent crack shoe too. But for the record, I think everyone goes thru the same ritual of sacrifying our skins and bloods to the crack-rock God/Godness before we learn it right, so you are not alone. Good luck.


Partner iclimbtoo


May 7, 2002, 12:33 PM
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Dude, rippin' the sh*t out of your hands...isn't that one of the best parts of climbing? Sometimes, if the crack is wide enough, I try to squeeze my forearm in there to help with the jam.


hyhuu


May 7, 2002, 12:34 PM
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Yupe. Tape will help. Get someone to teach you about proper crack techniques and practice them on a not so overhang route. The pain will be neglegible once you learn the techniques. And make sure you have decent crack shoe too. But for the record, I think everyone goes thru the same ritual of sacrifying our skins and bloods to the crack-rock God/Godness before we learn it right, so you are not alone. Good luck.


radistrad


May 7, 2002, 12:38 PM
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Ah cracks... I love them.. I am suprised that you did not mention pain on your feet as well.
Straight in crack climbing involves jamming the hands and feet.
I almost exclusivley climb cracks these days.
As you develop your technique for jamming you will become better at jamming and it wont be as painful. I hardly ever think about my hands hurting from climbing cracks.
You may want to make a tape glove or get some Hand Jammies, they can give a little cushion.
Also I can often reach through a crux move by reaching for the next jam and stepping as high as I can.
Keep it up, crack are not natural and they are hard to learn.


martyr


May 15, 2002, 3:32 PM
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Radistrad, Have you had good luck with hand jammies? I tried them once and lost feeling in my fingers.


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