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jkarns
Aug 2, 2004, 11:46 AM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2003
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Okay folks,
I know it's out there so it's time to fess up!
My relatives moved to Warren about a year ago, and on my visits I've been sniffing out the area rock. Heading south of Warren on rt. 100, I spotted a beautiful 30ish foot handcrack just across a small brook on the left side of the road. Naturally I stopped to check it out. It looked quite fine, and I could see more rock in the woods. Behind it I found two shiny new bolted routes. On a later visit I climbed one of them. Although the rock was a bit wet the climb was great! Anyone have more beta on this spot? I KNOW there's more out there, and I can't wait to continue to explore. If anyone has any tips, I'm interested: sport, trad, bouldering, ice, anything! I'll be back in the area in a few weeks and am looking to explore. Point me in the right direction, and I'll give you the results.
Josh
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 2, 2004, 12:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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suposedly climbing in apalaichin gap on rt 125, adventurw climbing in brandon gap rt 73 Cool freestanding spire w/ a bolted 5.10+ on its west face Both those gaps are south of you on rt 100. If you make it as far south as killington Deer leap has excelent trad and mixed climbing. good descriptions in the data base. Stowe area has great climbing up in the notch but not sure how accurate the data base is.
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madriver
Aug 2, 2004, 12:59 PM
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...just returned from a month in "rainymont". The little climbing we got in was at Smugs. I'm down in Warren a fair amount, am interested in your "finds". Hope you get some more info and beta on routes.
Bob
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roclimb
Aug 2, 2004, 1:50 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2001
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There is a nice steep wall in the gap that goes over the mountain just right of the Mad River Glen ski area. If you stay on that road going out twards Lake Champlain there is a 60/70 foot high crag that is pretty big there also. Some nice stuff right off the water on Champlain too.
~Rob :D
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rouge
Aug 2, 2004, 7:13 PM
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I've driven by that nice hand crack across that stream so many times and I always look at it and never stop! It looks great! there must be more climbs in that granville gulch area, let me know what you find out. peace..rouge
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jkarns
Aug 3, 2004, 8:08 AM
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thanks for all the tips! Any more out there?
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madriver
Aug 3, 2004, 8:33 AM
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roclimb wrote:
In reply to: Some nice stuff right off the water on Champlain too. ~Rob
...I noticed that to. I was taking the ferry over to Port Kent and was eyeing up some of the walls along the lake. Reminded me of Summersville Lake, WVA.
Bob
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 3, 2004, 8:38 AM
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there is a developed area with a bunch of bravely bolted mixed climbs on the west side of lake champlane
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barkeatervt
Sep 22, 2004, 8:36 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2004
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Climbed them a bunch, moved some rock, climbed them some more. Great place for a quicky. Watch your head as rumor has it, rocks rain upon.
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jkarns
Oct 3, 2005, 11:46 AM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2003
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BUMP!!
I'm headed this direction next weekend. If anyone can come out of the woodwork and share some beta for some climbing or bouldering in the greater Mad River area, I'll owe you a big one.
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madriver
Oct 3, 2005, 12:30 PM
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I'll be up from the 7th to 11th. Try Smuggs. Its about 45 min north of Mad River. link...
http://www.concept2.com/smuggs/index.htm
I'll be working on my house all weekend but my daughter will be climbing. She knows her way around the boulders. She's not hard to miss and is always looking for someone to push her.
Bob
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jkarns
Oct 3, 2005, 1:28 PM
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I've bouldered in Smuggs a number of times. Its an awesome spot for sure, but definately farther than 45min. I remember it being over an hour from Warren. Anyway, I'm more interested in spots that are closer by for when I cannot get out of family obligations.
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jkarns
Dec 12, 2005, 8:17 AM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2003
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Now its wintertime. No more bouldering, lets climb some ice instead!!! ANy thoughts? I'm a seasoned rock climber pretty new to ice. I'm still looking for TR opportunities. Smuggs seems a little intimidating to me right now, and Willoughby seems totally outn of the question. I prefer something a little closer to the center of the state too.
PLEASE HELP A BROTHER OUT!!!
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