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Lion's Head Ontario beta?
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fredrogers


Aug 6, 2004, 11:28 AM
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Lion's Head Ontario beta?  (North_America: Canada: Ontario: Central_Ontario: Lions_Head)
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I should be at Lion's Head, Ontario to climb in early Sept. Can anyone give reccommendations/beta on:

camping

good routes (5.11-5.13 range)

place to buy a guidebook (is guidebook necessary?)

places to eat?

Thanks!


decaf


Aug 6, 2004, 11:44 AM
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What weekend you going to be there?

Me and a bunch of my friends are heading up there around the 10th.

There is a ton of camp sites in the area, the closest to the cliffs is
Lions Head Campsite, it's right in Lions head and maybe a 3 minutes drive from where you start hiking in.

There is also Cape Croker, Ferndale Campsite, Cyrpus Lake Provincal Park

Any store in canada will probably have either the
A Sport Climbers guide to Ontario Limestone by Chris Oates and Marc Bracken
or
The Escarpment by Marc Bracken Judy Barnes and Chris Oates
Both are great guides though if you are looking for Trad The Escarpment is the one to buy.

As for Routes, 11 to 13 are so far above my range that I can't recommend any good ones for ya. Sorry

Scott


hoppinbig


Aug 6, 2004, 11:57 AM
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The sport climber's guide is a MUST. You approach the crag from the top and rap down to either ledges or hanging belays. So you need to make sure you are on the right climb.

Some other things:
- Bring 2 ropes - and some webbing for setting up your rap anchor.
- Weather in Sept up there is hit or miss. Check out White Bluff for good, steep 11-12+ climbs with an easy approach and a nice overhanging wall for rain days.
- First time there you will get lost - use the main lookout point as your point of reference and good luck.

I'm on my way out - PM me if you want some route suggestions (I'll respond on monday).


myusername


Aug 6, 2004, 11:59 AM
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I would say a guide book is pretty neccessary unless you are going with someone who knows the area well.

There are lots and lots of good routes.
here's a few Rum, Sodomy and the lash, So you think you know good kung foo, Cummulus, I wonder where the lions are, Mandate, Scalphunter, Sprit in the sky, Busted at Bedford
Sorry no recommendations on any 13s
Anything in the guide with 2 hangdogs (stars) or more should be an excellent route.

Be sure to check out White Bluff (across the bay) as well. and TV tower further down the Pennusula.

Whispering Pines (or cedars) campgorund is quieter and usually cheaper than the Municipal camp and is only 5-10 min away.


ccharles


Aug 6, 2004, 12:00 PM
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Re: Lion's Head Ontario beta? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
camping

There is pay camping right by the beach in Lions Head that seems popular. Or you can go set up tents in the forest somewhere out of the way.

In reply to:
good routes (5.11-5.13 range)

Man Overboard (5.11c)
Scalphunter (5.11d)
I wonder where the Lions Are (5.12a)
Niagro (5.12c)
And many many more...

In reply to:
place to buy a guidebook (is guidebook necessary?)

The MEC in Toronto will have them, as will any outdoor store in the area. You want "A Sport Climbers Guide to Ontario Limestone" (I think that is what it is called). And, yes, it is necessary, even with the guidebook finding routes can be troublesome at first since you have to rap in to most of them.

In reply to:
places to eat?

We just bought food at the grocery store in Lions Head, but the guidebook has some recommendations for eating out.


granite_grrl


Aug 6, 2004, 12:45 PM
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After a trip out west climbing I found the prices of the campground to be expensive, $23.50 at the municipal and $9 per person at the one on Lake Huron side of the Bruce Penninsula (forget the name, sorry). If you have a posse of people the prices aren't too bad to split at the municipal one though.

Food: as I remember there's no large grocery store in the area. I think that closest place to stock up at a big grocery store may be in Wiarton.

you have to rappel in from the top of the crag so unless there's a crowd of people there to direct you to the right spots a guide book is needed.


fredrogers


Aug 6, 2004, 12:45 PM
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Re: Lion's Head Ontario beta? [In reply to]
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Thanks for all the beta. It's obvious this is a complex crag and I'll need a guidebook. I checked the MEC website and they don't sell books there. Anyone have a location to buy this book online? Anyone want to mail me their copy??? Are there climbing stores in the area because I will not be coming up via Toronto.

I live near Boulder, CO so maybe I'll go check Neptune's. (I called...they don't have it).

Egads! $23 for camping? Do they offer a free massage and hot tub with that!


armsrforclimbing


Aug 6, 2004, 1:01 PM
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Re: Lion's Head Ontario beta? [In reply to]
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Good thing I found this thread becuase I am thinking of heading up soon. What is available as far as belay anchors? For the ledges and hanging belays :are there fixed anchors and/ or trees, or is pro req'd? Also, how are the local pubs?


myusername


Aug 6, 2004, 1:24 PM
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Yeah,
the municipal camping is a huge rip-off. like i said try the whispering trees place. if you do an internet search on bruce penninsula you'll get some sites that list area camp grounds.
There is a book store in town that used to or maybe still does carry guidebooks. The town is small but does have an inn with a decent pub. breakfast and ice cream is at the corner store. the main drag is small so finding the book store is easy.

The hanging belays are all two or three bolt anchors. where ledges are indicated they are big enough not to fall off if you rap in and are sober.
rap off trees at the top, padding them is a very good gesture. leave your rap line fixed incase you need it to bail out. i.e. don't pull it to lead on you may find yourself stuck. ascenders are a good idea if climbing near your limit. I've never used any pro at lion's head, there are a few of trad lines but I have never hauled in gear.

If you are not coming by way of Toronto where are you coming from??
I'm in Windsor, next to Detroit is that on your way? Maybe I can hook you up with a guidebook.


lemurboy


Aug 6, 2004, 1:57 PM
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Re: Lion's Head Ontario beta? [In reply to]
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Hey for a great time check out staying in Bruce Pennisula National Park its down the road a little ways (hwy 6) but well worth the drive, there is some of the most breathe taking scenery there and a great place to spend a rest day, check out the grotto, and do some cliff jumping while your up there. Camping is in private sites, no showers are availible at the camp ground.

As for camping else where, the Lions Head camp ground can get pretty packed seeing how there is only 3 or 4 tent sites availible. You can always camp accross the pennisula or even get a trail pass and camp right off the Bruce trail at the actual climbing location.

Hope this gives you some options. As for guide books check out "the escarpment", or "Ontario Sport Climbing guide" both very good books.

Cheers


lemurboy


Aug 6, 2004, 2:03 PM
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Oh ya BTW

Please do not use the tree as anchors as the Cedars are a very touchy speicimen in Ontario, many of these trees are over 1000 years old and access can be severly damaged if climbers are found damaging too many trees.

Please keep this in mind.


chalked4dyno


Aug 6, 2004, 2:49 PM
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Are the routes set up for 50m ropes or do you need a 60??


decaf


Aug 6, 2004, 3:26 PM
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When we were there a couple weeks ago it seemed that 50m was more than enough for just about everything.


fredrogers


Aug 6, 2004, 4:42 PM
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What about dogs? We will have a truck w/ topper and can park them in the shade if there is some available?? Do the campgrounds allow dogs?

Thanks!


myusername


Aug 6, 2004, 5:20 PM
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Yes and no. It could be too hot to leave them in the parking lot. It gets shade during a good part of the day but the temps could still be high. Dogs are welcome at the campgrounds but not allowed on the beach. I take mine into the crag with me she's well-behaved and quiet and just hangs out in the shade at the top of the climb we are doing. She listens to us climbs, watches boats go by, drinks and eats, pretty standard dog life except that the view is amazing.


cgailey


Aug 6, 2004, 5:29 PM
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In reply to:
Are the routes set up for 50m ropes or do you need a 60??

Most you can get away with a 50m, but some need a 60..."american bucks" is an example...one definitely worth doing.

Have a great trip...if you need pics, I have a bunch that may help with determining locations.


ecocliffchick


Aug 9, 2004, 1:29 PM
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American Bucks doesn't need a 60m rope. You should be fine with a 50m rope for all of the climbs off ledges or hanging belays.

There is a grocery store in Lions Head, but check the hours - it's not open late. There is also a good pub at 'the Lions head Inn'. The convenience store/ice cream parlor/video store in town serves excellent portions of ice cream. The bookstore in Lion's Head and the pharmacy had several copies of the Sport Climbing Guide last summer.

Route finding is tricky. Several new lines have gone up since the 1997 guidebook was put out, so it's a bit confusing.

Some excellent routes are:

So! You think you know good kung fu? (11d)

Cumulus (11a)

Nimbus (the climb isn't really that good, but the belay is memorable - and it climbs out the lookout, so you'll be able to find it) (10b)

Lost at Sea (10c)

and I've heard that 'I wonder where the lion's are (12a)' and 'Man Overboard (11c)' are two of the best.

Avoid White Bluff unless it's raining. Check out T.V. Tower for some other good lines if you get sick of hanging belays.


cgailey


Aug 9, 2004, 2:42 PM
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In reply to:
American Bucks doesn't need a 60m rope. You should be fine with a 50m rope for all of the climbs off ledges or hanging belays.

My bad...thanks for the correction ecocliff... :oops:


darkside


Aug 9, 2004, 7:31 PM
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For visiting the Lionshead area you will find a bunch of good info at http://www.centralbrucepeninsula.ca or try this link for camping info. There are cheaper options than the municipal campground although other than B&B's, it is the closest to Lionshead. The Lakeside Rainbow campground looks to be the cheapest at around $10-12/night but I don't know what it's like. There are a couple of designated camping spots on the Bruce Trail but anywhere else on the Bruce Trail could get you into problems. I think the area Lemurboy refers to is the McKays Harbour camping area but it is a good hours hike in and way past the climbing areas (strangely enough for anyone that knows me, I did camp there once).

Finding climbs at Lionhead can be extremely frustrating. If you can hook up with someone who knows the area then do so. The cliff top bush is thick enough in places it hides climbers from the trail but most climbers there will try to help with directing you to climbs. Just don't count on seeing climbers for directions or they may be over the edge.

You may also be able to get a copy of one of the guidebooks at the "Corner Convenience" store. For good cooking, try "Marydales Restaurant" on the main street near the retirement home.

And now for the warnings......... :shock:

The cliff base is some of the worst bushwhacking I've ever seen and it would be easier to swim the 2 or 3km back to town so you need to rap in and climb out.
There is no local high angle rescue team at this time therefore you need to know how to ascend a rope.
In the event of any accident, see the above point. At best it would take over two hours to get a military helicopter to the area (if it was even any use - see the first warning). In any case you should assume that when climbing at Lionhead, there is NO RESCUE AVAILABLE.
Lionshead is no place for beginners. You need to know what you are doing.

Access is very sensitive in the Bruce peninsula so please educate yourself with the various crags you visit. Some basic info follows:
*Halfway Dump is temporarily closed until we work out the details for allowing the bouldering there. The Access Committee has been doing a lot of work on this, please don't boulder here and turn it into a permanent ban.
*If visiting White Bluff, Whippowill Rd is private and has no parking, nor at the end of the road. Use the Bruce Trail parking area.
*If visiting Lionhead crag, do not park in front of the cottages. Park in the small parking lot if there is room or opposite the cottages.
*In general respect the cottage owners by being polite, keeping speed along the cottage roads to 40km/h, and turning your radios down.
*Try to avoid slinging cedars if possible or try padding them.

This is some info to help but if there is more you need to know, especially regarding access, then send me an e-mail. The Bruce is a beautiful area so enjoy your visit and climb safe.


eb1aine


Oct 30, 2009, 8:58 AM
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Re: [fredrogers] Lion's Head Ontario beta? [In reply to]
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chesslers online sells both the escarpment book and sport climbing ontario book. For Lions head the sport climbing book wastes the escarpment on sport climbing beta.


(This post was edited by eb1aine on Oct 30, 2009, 8:59 AM)


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