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over_the_hill
Aug 6, 2004, 5:57 AM
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Someone is chopping anchors in Little Cottonwood Canyon!!! Is this the new bolting war that everyone is afraid would happen??
Somone has chopped ALL the anchors of the "university slab" (all six ancor sets). This area is the first slab you encounter on your way to the green A gulley, right below hatchet crack. The lower set of anchors were used by the university of utah for its rock 1 classes, the upper set were placed by Tony Calderone about 10 years ago.
Now I see no reason for someone to pull ANY of the anchors on that wall, regardless of good intentions or motives. I would like to open communication with the person/ people who have done this, and I would like them to explain their actions. Nothing good will come of this. What scares me more, is these people may pull anchors on other routes in the canyon. This is the start of a bad trend, and will lead to further damage in this great canyon. This action must not be ignored!!!!!
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calamity_chk
Aug 6, 2004, 6:14 AM
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amber_chk moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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ikefromla
Aug 6, 2004, 7:57 AM
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have you taken action within the local climbing community to open such discussion? this sounds horrible.
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ikefromla
Aug 6, 2004, 7:58 AM
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have you taken action within the local climbing community to open such discussion? this sounds horrible.
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paganmonkeyboy
Aug 6, 2004, 1:23 PM
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Does anyone know who is chopping in LCC ? What their logic is ? How much more they plan to chop ? geez there's only a few million chains in that canyon...
there should be a discussion about this - maybe a meeting of concerned climbers and we can all see what everyone thinks before someone just goes to town on the anchors...i will try to get one going with a few calls to rei, ime, the gyms, black diamond, etc...anyone else want to help - PM me. I will post details when we get something set up...
zounds - could this be the boulderification of salt lake ? does this mean i have to develop an attitude now ? :)
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rockprodigy
Aug 6, 2004, 2:28 PM
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I think you should find out who is doing this before you start organizing a lynch mob.
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paganmonkeyboy
Aug 6, 2004, 2:34 PM
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In reply to: I think you should find out who is doing this before you start organizing a lynch mob.
dude - i'm not going for a lynch mob. i want all climbers that care, one way or the other, in one spot talking...that's where it starts...
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rockprodigy
Aug 6, 2004, 2:34 PM
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PS, you should put "LCC" in the subject so that people will know what you are talking about.
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over_the_hill
Aug 6, 2004, 4:30 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I think you should find out who is doing this before you start organizing a lynch mob. dude - i'm not going for a lynch mob. i want all climbers that care, one way or the other, in one spot talking...that's where it starts...
I think that a meeting is a great idea. I am sure that we can contact the folks at the SLCA, and Access Fund to get some more interest with this idea.
It will be a good idea to get a survey of the canyon, to se what has gone on in the regards to "chopping". I know that a guy in provo decided to remove the pins from the schoolroom roof as well. Whoever pulled these anchors on the University Slabs must not know its history or uses!
All I am asking is for everyone to ask around, and find out who is doing this. I am not looking to "lynch" anyone, or to even get confrontational about it. I want to discuss the action, and see if there is a solution to keep everyone happy.
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rockprodigy
Aug 6, 2004, 9:25 PM
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I just don't think a meeting will help if the perp isn't at the meeting. It sounds to me like maybe somebody thought that slab should be TR'd or something. I wonder about someone who would go to the trouble of chopping bolts on a beginner slab unless they were out for booty.
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dredsovrn
Aug 6, 2004, 10:06 PM
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I am going to bet that the cowards that do this kind of work aren't going to show up to talk. However, if you wait around for them, you may be able to strike up a "friendly conversation" with the moron(s) and I bet they will stop. You just have to be "persuasive."
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sarcat
Aug 6, 2004, 10:07 PM
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In reply to: maybe somebody thought that slab should be TR'd or something.
...thought....
Regardless of what they though they are @sses for chopping. The Same right they think they have is the same right someone else has. You sure it's not a punkster just wanting the hangers?
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joelcshanight
Aug 6, 2004, 10:25 PM
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Call 911
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bsmoot
Aug 7, 2004, 12:52 AM
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I think the 3 sets of anchor bolts should be put back in. They have been used for years by the U of U Outdoor Program rockclimbing classes. I put 2 or 3 of those anchors in. I was asked to by Tony Thompson & Harold Goodro. These bolts reduce rockfall from above and made these classes more efficient. The University paid for the bolts. ( 5 piece rawls).
Whoever pulled them ought to chime in on this website. If it was a misunderstanding, thats cool. There just needs to be a dialog.
This slab was not the site of any historic first ascent. The bolts were not next to any cracks, and the slab itself is nothing to write home about, so I think they should be put back in.
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alpinerock
Sep 18, 2004, 4:23 PM
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Has there been any new developments latley? That just es me off! :evil: Its one thing to chop bolts on a , but on a face like this....
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microbdcamalot
Sep 18, 2004, 4:58 PM
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i hate bolts so i chopped them all off.
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holdstrong
Sep 18, 2004, 5:39 PM
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Without getting into it here (and hijacking this thread) - could someone point me in the direction of some information on the bolt debate?
Preferably non-biased, but I can weed through the agenda if that is all you can find.
As a noob, I dont quite understand the need for the 8 billion bolts I see all around the climbing areas I've been to, nor do I fully understand those who chop them...... since it is obviously an issue in the community I'd like to be informed on it.
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over_the_hill
Sep 18, 2004, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: i hate bolts so i chopped them all off.
Thanks for weighing in with your opinion. Instead of chopping them all off, just skip clipping them or using them at all. Who knows, it may become the new "rage" in climbing. And we would have "YOU" to thank for it too! You great trendsetter you.
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sharpender
Sep 18, 2004, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: Who knows, it may become the new "rage" in climbing.
Then again maybe chopping the bolts will become the new rage and we'll still have him to thank for that. Ahhh. Logic. Gotta love it.
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granitegod
Feb 17, 2005, 12:54 AM
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Don't waste your breath cryin' over chopped bolts. Just replace them. You'll never find the scum who did it.
I'll help if you want...even have a drill. We need to set up a fund at some Bank, or REI, or Black Diamond.... to help replace old/broken/stolen anchors. The ASCA is great, and have done ALOT of rebolting.....but there are plenty of locals who would be willing to donate money, time, or both.
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mikeasca
Feb 18, 2005, 7:16 AM
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No need to start a local rebolting fund. The asca has supplied me with more bolts than I can place in 4 seasons. Just let me know what routes need work and come help out whenever you can. The asca has replaced over 200 bolts in lcc and right now I have 60 bolts that i know of to replace. I have a donation can at rei for the asca if anbody wants to cantribute to the fund. Keep in mind that the asca replaces bolts every where and none of us climb in one place.
mike white :)
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tallnik
Feb 18, 2005, 4:20 PM
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You're probably aware of the bolting war discussions that have happened in New Hampshire over certain bolts which were alterately placed and chopped and replaced and chopped. If not, this is what essentially went down. Local climbers got together, and invited everyone to an open forum to put their ideas forward. Not sure what organizations specifically got involved. The end result is that the community decided that a number of "convenience" bolts should be removed, as well as trying to minimize excess bolting in an attempt to keeping with the local spirit of climbing.
Good luck sorting the issue. From this thread it sounds like the bolts in question which were chopped were actually a good resource for the school.
Cheers,
Nik
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crimpandgo
Feb 18, 2005, 4:47 PM
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Are the anchors the only hardware missing? Are all the bolts on the climb still there? Are the anchors normally visible from the ground? If not you might want to put a note at the bottom so unsuspecting leaders don't get to the top only to find nothing to anchor too. :shock:
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slobmonster
Feb 18, 2005, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: ....The end result is that the community decided that a number of "convenience" bolts should be removed, as well as trying to minimize excess bolting in an attempt to keeping with the local spirit of climbing.
There was NO agreement to go and chop anything.
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