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Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04
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lazide


Aug 7, 2004, 11:25 AM
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Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park: Yosemite_Valley: El_Capitan)
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Well - it was definitely an interesting experience. :) No formal TR yet, but I can do a photo TR! (click thumbnails for larger images, and to see the rest of the photos - this is just a small sampling).

Just before bailing on the first attempt due to exhaustion, borderline heat stroke, etc.
http://bigwalling.com/...1/dscn3166.thumb.jpg

Couple hours after bailing (and a couple cliff bars, and about a gallon of water)
http://bigwalling.com/...1/dscn3171.thumb.jpg

Bailing was due to a bunch of factors: lack of sleep for the previous three days, hauling all at once (350lbs of water, food, gear), starting low and working through a giant heatwave (mid 90's?), and not drinking/eating properly at the start on the route.

Gave it a week to recover (and for the temps to relax), then fixed to pitch 4, hauled, and blasted off. Second try was much more straightforward, but took awhile, and was still quite hot. (11 days, 12 nights).

Amazing morning views
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3193.thumb.jpg

Mmmm, portaledge - home away from home
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3197.thumb.jpg

Aaah, exposure.
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3202.thumb.jpg

Can you see the dudes on top of El Cap tower? Click on it to see the larger photo
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3209.thumb.jpg

More exposure
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3220.thumb.jpg

Finally getting high on the route - Half Dome!
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3225.thumb.jpg


http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3243.thumb.jpg

http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3248.thumb.jpg

http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3250.thumb.jpg

Tired, dirty, victorious! Now to start the long slog down....
http://bigwalling.com/...2/dscn3252.thumb.jpg


Thanks to Nick, Gabe, Brian, Ivo, etc for their generository with sharing their food and beer on the summit, and for helping on the descent. (I ran out of food just as I topped out), and Nickolai helped me carry down the ridiculous pig loads of crap, trash, gear, etc. (an unexpected bonus!)

The route was hard, interesting, very hot for me. Doing it solo was enlightening. :)

Shout outs to everyone who gave encouragement, and the poor bastards that got within smelling distance after I got down. ;)

In reply to:
Well, after what has seemed like an eternity of training and planning, I am finally leaving for Yosemite 8/9/04. I will start my solo ascent of mescalito on the 11th.

This is a signifigant undertaking for me, as it will be the first time I have attempted anything larger or more committing than a grade III, and I am intentionally going during the hottest time of the year.

I have been training and preparing for a long time, and I feel I am ready for it - time will tell, eh?

Anyways, I will update this thread when I get back - it should be an interesting trip. :wink:


Partner coylec


Aug 7, 2004, 11:45 AM
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coylec moved this thread from Aid Climbing to Trip Reports.


g-funk
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Aug 8, 2004, 2:09 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Good luck mate, I can't wait to read about it when you get back!


epic_ed


Aug 8, 2004, 2:46 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Cool! That's quite an undertaking for your first grade VI solo. Say hi to Kate (holdplease2) if you run into her. She's soloing it right now and may have some good beta for you by the time you get there.

Best of luck.

Ed


hexitup


Aug 8, 2004, 4:40 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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That's quite an undertaking for your first route longer than Grade III.

Regardless, enjoy Yosemite and the west (are you stopping anywhere else?), it beats New Campus and GT Rock.


texplorer


Aug 10, 2004, 11:03 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Two words:

Ep Ic


karlbaba


Aug 11, 2004, 12:50 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Well, it's August 11th. I predict

Hot

Hot HOT Hot HoT HOT hot

you're a stud if you don't bail. Make it through a couple days and it'll get better

HOT

Karl


Partner holdplease2


Aug 17, 2004, 3:55 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Make it thru like 12 days and it might might get better...hot hot hot hothothothot.

Then, of course, windy.

Then hot again.

Was at the base Sunday, saw no load humping or line fixing as of yet.

-Kate.


bringmedeath


Aug 21, 2004, 9:54 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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your website is insane!!!!!!!


areyoumydude


Aug 22, 2004, 12:40 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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In reply to:


HOT Karl
:shock: Watch out from above. :lol: :lol:


lazide


Sep 8, 2004, 3:40 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Make it thru like 12 days and it might might get better...hot hot hot hothothothot.

Then, of course, windy.

Then hot again.

Was at the base Sunday, saw no load humping or line fixing as of yet.

-Kate.

Heya Kate, congrats on the solo! I will actually write up a trip report here soon. :) I bailed at pitch 4 on the 11th or 12th due to heat and dehydration (was hitting mid-high 90's on the valley floor then - you hadn't completly topped out yet).

Gave it a week or two, took my time, and went for it again - topped out 9/6 after 11 or 12 days on the wall, and did it clean. :)

Thanks to Ammon, and the monkeys for the encouragement while on the wall - always nice :)

Heh, I just realized I spent half the month of august on the wall.
:shock:


crotch


Sep 8, 2004, 10:09 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Gave it a week or two, took my time, and went for it again - topped out 9/6 after 11 or 12 days on the wall, and did it clean. :)

Congratulations!! How many nights up there? How many liters of water? Did you get all your crap down in one trip??

Nice send.


Partner holdplease2


Sep 8, 2004, 11:33 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Congratulations!

When I came back to the valley I heard somebody was up there...some folks told me a name, I came back and checked your profile, and it didnt match so I didn't think it was you. I had wanted to post an update in this thread if it was you.

Tell me about the heat, sheesh, what a sufferfest. I hid out under my sleeping bag to be out of the sun for about 3 hours per day for the first half of the wall.

Can't wait to read your trip report!

Great Job!

-Kate.


buzzardboy


Sep 9, 2004, 6:22 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Where's the TR lazid?????


lazide


May 25, 2005, 11:13 AM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Where's the TR lazid?????

Oops. :P You know, I still haven't put together a complete TR - too lazy maybe? I'm gonna update the parent with photos though :)


epic_ed


May 25, 2005, 3:09 PM
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Re: Soloing Mescalito - 8/11/04 [In reply to]
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Your photos are outstanding! Great send, bro. Especially exceptional that you had the heart to give it another whirl after getting baked off the week before. Very impressive. Congrats.

Ed


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