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honeybee
Aug 11, 2004, 8:11 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2004
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being lazy and putting two questions in one post.
I'm finally getting into leading, and I'm looking to invest in a set of quickdraws. The guys I climb with use different types but I'm not sure which ones to get. How do you guys decide which ones you prefer, the two I'm looking at are :
Wild Country Blaze (Set of 5 £40/$73)
DMM Livewire Quickdraw (Set of 5 £50/$91)
I'm looking for something light and quick to clip (still a little clumsy on that). Your opinion and any other recommendations would be appreciated.
Also, I'm planning on retiring my Chilli Spirits, love them to death but the sole is splitting and I wouldn't put anyone through resoling them (they stink to high heaven). Recently bought a pair of Scarpa New Dominator (On offer for £20/$36). I find them really quite tight and can't keep them on for long, but they are excellent for climbing. I've been told Scarpas do stretch, has anyone found this to be so, and how did you go about stretching them? Or should I forgo the pain of trying to stretch them in for a pair of Chilli Torro that are on offer at the same price. Would buy the Spirits but they are three times the price.
i know, i know, i'm such a fussy cow. but sure....
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overlord
Aug 11, 2004, 8:15 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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wiredraws are generally easier to clip, but thats not the rule. go to a store and try them out. but if youre on a budget, go with the cheaper ones, draws are all basicly the same anyway. though the dmms sling look better on pics.
as for shoes, a friend of mine has the dominator and they did stretch. and that was an excellent prize.
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honeybee
Aug 13, 2004, 10:37 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2004
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thanks for that. I decided to go with the DMM Livewire. Will just have to hope they are good.
Also decided to go for the Chilli Torros that were on offer. There was no way I was going to get my dominators stretched out in time for Sardinia (in sept), and my feet would have been crippled in those in the heat. I'll have time after the trip to stretch them out and means I will have two very good pairs of shoes and all it would have cost me is £40, thats still £20 cheaper than the Chilli Spirits. Makes sense in my head anyway.
25 days can't wait.
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ajkclay
Aug 13, 2004, 10:58 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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Dominators don't stretch that much, and they do hurt a lot, but you get used to it after a while, and they really do crank! I wouldn't have them stretched, if your toes are crimped in them without being curled under they are the right size, just live with the pain.
Oh.. and they absolutely KILL your feet in hot sunny weather, I wore mine on a long multi-pitch in hot sun and it nearly destroyed me! (I didn't think they were great that day)
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honeybee
Aug 13, 2004, 2:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2004
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haha, I'm sure you didn't. I think what I did wrong was my first pair of shoes were half a size too big for me, they were so comfy yet firm, and great for edging. the dominators are even better but I got the right size in them. so it basically is me being a big softy.
kind of a hypocrite really, lived my life refusing to wear girly shoes (heels) on the principle that if they aren't comfy they aren't worth it. only to fall in love with a sport that involves me wearing shoes that make a night of dancing in heels sound like heaven. but I do see the importance of a good tight fitting, and the difference it makes. well just have to grit my teeth and bear it just like the rest of you. never done multi-pitch and its generally not that hot here so I don't envy you.
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ajkclay
Aug 16, 2004, 4:35 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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In reply to: kind of a hypocrite really, lived my life refusing to wear girly shoes (heels) on the principle that if they aren't comfy they aren't worth it. only to fall in love with a sport that involves me wearing shoes that make a night of dancing in heels sound like heaven.
Sounds like you now have balance in your life yin and yang, comfy and painful :lol:
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jughead
Aug 20, 2004, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 292
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black diamond hotwires BEST draws ever, kewlock krabs so they dnt catch your gear loops wire draw on the rope end and a standard on the other, cheap effective with all the benefits of wires and so much more
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outdoorclimber
Aug 20, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2003
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to preface this I must say that I am OBSESSED with wiregates.
So, I have both those draws and find it much easier to clip the Livewires, the wildcountry are still really good, just not quite as easy to clip.
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