|
lockie
Aug 16, 2004, 1:32 PM
Post #1 of 6
(1517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 11, 2004
Posts: 9
|
What sort of gear is most useful for Banana Peel? At the moment I only have nuts #4-13 and a few large hexes...
|
|
|
|
|
jefffski
Aug 16, 2004, 2:46 PM
Post #2 of 6
(1517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 274
|
a) you need to be comfortable on 5.7-8 run out slab. go early am before the sun hits.
nuts are fine for the crux. although a few smaller sized cams (.5-1 inch) will help.
the last pitch is a big flake that is easy to pro.
all else is bolted (typical squamish slab)
have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
peas
Aug 16, 2004, 2:50 PM
Post #3 of 6
(1517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2002
Posts: 400
|
jeffski is about right. I find that the yellow and orange metolius cams are helpful down low (for the crux), and cams to a green, red or yellow camalot are helpful up high(at the big flake mentioned). Depending on how large your hexes are, I don't think they'll do you much good.
The really runout parts are pretty easy, but can easily play head games with you. The somewhat runout parts aren't all that runout and have nice fat bolts for pro. If you find yourself doing hard slab climbing down low, you're probably on a harder slab route next to Banana Peel.
|
|
|
|
|
raingod
Aug 17, 2004, 11:48 AM
Post #4 of 6
(1517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 95
|
"The somewhat runout parts aren't all that runout and have nice fat bolts for pro"
Last time I did Banana Peel there was only one bolt, but the rest of what they've said is true.
|
|
|
|
|
peas
Aug 17, 2004, 11:51 AM
Post #5 of 6
(1517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2002
Posts: 400
|
Last time I did Banana Peel was in the spring and there was definitely more than one bolt on the first couple pitches. I think there were two or three bolts leading up to the crux bulge.
|
|
|
|
|
jefffski
Aug 17, 2004, 4:04 PM
Post #6 of 6
(1517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 274
|
In reply to: Last time I did Banana Peel was in the spring and there was definitely more than one bolt on the first couple pitches. I think there were two or three bolts leading up to the crux bulge.
true, but if you've never climbed slab before........
jeff
|
|
|
|
|
|
