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skurdeycat
Aug 17, 2004, 3:16 AM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
Posts: 45
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Can anyone please tell me where the second belay on Osprey should be? (i.e. the end of the second pitch) I find myself setting an anchor on a tiny sloping triangular ledge with a thin crack along the right side, or some wider horizontal cracks up to the left. Does this sound like the right place, it doesn't sound like either books description to me, and I really don't like placing all my anchor pieces in one thin, shallow crack. Both times, the rope drag was so bad by then that I had to stop but should I have belayed earlier, later or was I off route?
Thanks
Skurdey
PS this route is fantastic, but don't tell anyone else! Keep the crowds away.
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dynobelay
Aug 22, 2004, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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yeah, that sloping triangular ledge is the belay. Just put in enough gear to hold you there.
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skurdeycat
Aug 24, 2004, 2:12 AM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
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Thanks for the confirmation, enough gear to hold me there wasn't so much of a problem, but the first time I climbed it, my second slipped as he mantled up to the belay, so obviously the anchor was good enough...
The second time we climbed it I must have used different gear on the pitch 'cos I didn't have good pieces left, and I was extra aware of the need for a solid anchor, and didn't like what I had.
Anyway, that route still ranks as one of my most memorabe climbs ever, absolutely at my limit when I first sent it, and three years later, it still scared the wits out of me. The Gunks never bothered me after that.
Skurdey
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mojomonkey
Jun 13, 2007, 2:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
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I realize this is super old, but that is where I ended up belaying too. For anyone climbing it, save some small to medium sized nuts to build a solid anchor. This was my first all nut belay and I was glad to be carrying doubles. I think my first piece was a bomber #9, then various smaller ones (including at least one oppositional piece, of course).
I thought the roof to that ledge was the hardest part of the climb by far.
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