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thisguy
Aug 19, 2004, 6:50 PM
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Hey all,
I was wondering if anyone can suggest an area to climb at Devils Lake for me. I'm taking a few non-climbing friends, so I'm looking for an area with easy access to the top so I can setup TRs and they can hike down, easy routes (5.4-5.7ish), and if there were a few in one area so they don't have to hike around a lot that would be good too. An added bonus would be if the area wasn't really crowded. I don't want to get a lot of people mad if I setup a TR and stay there for a while.
I also have not been to DLs to climb, so if you have directions to the area it might help...though I do have to guide book.
Thanks,
Guy
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mowz
Aug 19, 2004, 7:30 PM
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Well, Guy, seeing that this has been a pretty mild summer and a dry one at that, you will be hard pressed to find an area up at DL that will not be crowded, unless you go during the week, as opposed to the weekends. I have had two weekends where not many people were around and it was 75 and sunny. I got lucky, I guess.
As far as routes go, just hike up the CCC trail and, assuming you look at the guide, there are plenty of routes for you to set TR's on. If you get lost, there are many around who will tell you what route you're standing in front of to help orient you. The approach to the top of the cliffs where you will be setting up your anchors is a mild hike.
Good luck and watch out for those pigeons that dwell in Brinton's Crack.
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euroford
Aug 19, 2004, 7:47 PM
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if you want to stay away from the crowds on a weekend your only real choice is the west bluff. for moderate grade easy to toprope climbs i would suggest the Weisner wall area. see the diagram on page 205 of your guidebook. its a good location for a group becouse you have several fun climbs in a small area with nice spots for poeple to hang out at. if you get there first and setup some ropes any other party's heading out that way will probobly just turn around and go back to the cleo amp. or head on towards the lost face.
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wildtrail
Aug 23, 2004, 7:52 PM
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mowz has it. Anything up the CCC trail would be good. Access trails to the top of the East Bluff are available and everything from 5.2 to 5.12ish??? (5.11 for sure).
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corpse
Aug 25, 2004, 1:00 AM
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I just noticed euro, but you are now at 666 posts - evil man.
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wildtrail
Aug 25, 2004, 11:04 AM
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In reply to: as has been mentioned in other threads, taking a large group up the ccc to the east bluffs on a weekend is a recipie for disaster and disapointment, not to mention infringing on other poeples climbing.
Which is a staple on the East Bluff, so go wherever you feel like.
I've never not seen the East Bluff cluttered with groups, so it doesn't really matter does it? Just don't do like the majority of these d*ckheads. Don't set up ten ropes and hog a whole area. If you set up more than one TR, at least let others tie into and use it if it is just hanging there.
The East Bluff is where you want to go with a group anyway. More climbing offered.
Either way, just be considerate of others. It's not a common philosphy at Devil's Lake due to the amount of climbers packed into one area, but there's no reason it can't be. :)
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mowz
Aug 25, 2004, 4:41 PM
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In reply to: if you get there first and setup some ropes any other party's heading out that way will probobly just turn around and go back to the cleo amp. or head on towards the lost face.
Don't do that unless you plan on using all the TR's at the same time. It is very selfish and inconsiderate of other climbers. If you do want to be a jerk about it, tell other climbers who are looking at a route you are occupying that they may lead the route or set up a TR next to your's or let them climb using your TR.
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corpse
Aug 25, 2004, 5:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: if you get there first and setup some ropes any other party's heading out that way will probobly just turn around and go back to the cleo amp. or head on towards the lost face. Don't do that unless you plan on using all the TR's at the same time. It is very selfish and inconsiderate of other climbers. If you do want to be a jerk about it, tell other climbers who are looking at a route you are occupying that they may lead the route or set up a TR next to your's or let them climb using your TR.
tru dat... and you score good karma points for offering your rope to others.. ANY and EVERY time I have a TR setup, if others are around (been there or just arrive) I always offer them to hop on my rope.. I also tell them about the anchor I have setup as an FYI.
I wish more ppl were like me
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euroford
Aug 25, 2004, 6:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: if you get there first and setup some ropes any other party's heading out that way will probobly just turn around and go back to the cleo amp. or head on towards the lost face. Don't do that unless you plan on using all the TR's at the same time. It is very selfish and inconsiderate of other climbers. If you do want to be a jerk about it, tell other climbers who are looking at a route you are occupying that they may lead the route or set up a TR next to your's or let them climb using your TR. tru dat... and you score good karma points for offering your rope to others.. ANY and EVERY time I have a TR setup, if others are around (been there or just arrive) I always offer them to hop on my rope.. I also tell them about the anchor I have setup as an FYI. I wish more ppl were like me
you were there, with me at the place i mentioned in the situation i mentioned. over the course of the day several parties walked by at the top of the bluffs, eyed out setups and continued on without saying anything to us.
would we have let them have a spin on our ropes if they asked? of course! but they walked on to other areas without ever saying anything.
its not being a dick, becouse i would never do that on purpose. the west bluffs are relativly uncrowded and ussually when other parties see another party occupying an area they just move on to another area.
people appeared to have done the same thing to us the next sunday at the railroad tracks.
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corpse
Aug 25, 2004, 6:25 PM
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oh, that day.. Well, if they don't approach and say hi n stuff, then screw em.. For me, the only time I walk past a group, is if it's a larger group..
From what I've seen so far (at DL), large groups, that often consist of a couple adults that are tied in to a tree to belay a bunch of kids, makes me nervous - not only do I not want to climb with them, but I'd rather not be in the area. I'm sorry, but there is NO reason for a normal sized adult to tie in when belaying someone that is <= their own weight, for TR'ing.. whoa, didn't mean to go off on a small rant there...
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mowz
Aug 25, 2004, 8:05 PM
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In reply to: you were there, with me at the place i mentioned in the situation i mentioned. over the course of the day several parties walked by at the top of the bluffs, eyed out setups and continued on without saying anything to us. would we have let them have a spin on our ropes if they asked? of course! but they walked on to other areas without ever saying anything. its not being a dick, becouse i would never do that on purpose. the west bluffs are relativly uncrowded and ussually when other parties see another party occupying an area they just move on to another area. people appeared to have done the same thing to us the next sunday at the railroad tracks.
My reply was not to zing you, euroford. It is just my opinion that those who are not climbing a route should not have their gear strewn about it nor have their rope hanging from it. I just believe this to be a polite thing to do. Have you considered that those who walked away without saying anything might have thought the owner of the rope is being selfish and hoarding? Maybe they were not thinking that, but no one will ever know. Perhaps they bit their tongue because they wanted to avoid any confrontation. Just because others do the same does not rectify any wrongdoing. Just my opinion here.
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corpse
Aug 25, 2004, 8:27 PM
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nah mowz, to be specific here, this isn't a case of route hogging.. It was a case where there were ~ 8 routes in a small area, with one ACTIVE rope (climber on it), and 1 other rope that was in the process of being taken down.. Had the climbers approached us, they would have known we were leaving within an hour after the active rope was done (couple more climbs).. At least if it's the few climbers I'm thinking of.. And with a group of 4 or 5 climbers, 2 hanging ropes for even half a day , IMO, is pretty reasonable. Leaving a rope unused for the greater portion of a day is bad form - leaving a rope hanging all day because it is in use, is good form.
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euroford
Aug 25, 2004, 10:08 PM
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well, i think we more or less sorted that out. the point i was trying to get accros is that i think the east bluffs are a bit too crowded for bringing a group. over at the west bluffs you have many great climbs, and a significantly better chance of enjoying your climbing without impending on other peoples climbing. we had the place to ourselves all day, and if any of those people that walked by really wanted to climb we would have let them, instead they simply kept moving on.
other good spots would probobly be railroad tracks and the porkchop.
if you really want to head to the east, go for it. but plan to have other poeple regularly walking through group, be prepaired to not get the routes you were thinking off, be prepaired to be as courtious as possable, and understand that some others really might be on your favorite route all day long. you could always ask to take a lap on somebody elses rope, but queing up your entire group wouldn't really be an option.
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monopocketmojo
Aug 25, 2004, 10:47 PM
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try horses' rampart or railroad amphitheater. on a weekend you should be ok trying those areas, and they shouldn't be too crowded. Otherwise Queens amphitheater on the west bluff might be a spot to try out.
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corpse
Aug 25, 2004, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: too crowded for bringing a group.
crowded with groups, eh? I wonder if the groups make the crowd.. ironic, dontchathink?
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euroford
Aug 26, 2004, 3:45 AM
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ohyaithink.
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wildtrail
Aug 26, 2004, 3:04 PM
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In reply to: you were there, with me at the place i mentioned in the situation i mentioned. over the course of the day several parties walked by at the top of the bluffs, eyed out setups and continued on without saying anything to us. would we have let them have a spin on our ropes if they asked? of course! but they walked on to other areas without ever saying anything. its not being a dick, becouse i would never do that on purpose. the west bluffs are relativly uncrowded and ussually when other parties see another party occupying an area they just move on to another area. people appeared to have done the same thing to us the next sunday at the railroad tracks.
It's still a little "dickish". You shouldn't do that. The people probably didn't say anything because they wanted to avoid any unpleasantries. It's a good possibility as in the past I would just mumble something rude under my breath and move on. Now, I say something immediately like, "you guys using the whole area, because I see a lot of ropes and only one being used?" I do it because I'm tired of route and area hogs. If you set up TRs and they aren't being used, you're inadvertently being a dick.
Just because someone did it the next day in another area doesn't make it right.
I've taken groups up to teach and groups just to climb that all have ropes and the question has come up many times. "Where should I set up?" My answers is always the same, "nowhere". Then I tell them we will work on the routes reasonably reachable with just the one TR, then move down the line. It isn't difficult and more than considerate. This way, if another few climbers come by with hopes to climb in the area, they aren't made to feel like they can't climb because I've marked my spot, peed on the tree, and hung six TRs.
There is no reason why more than one needs to be set up at a time, unless the party is very large and more than one person is climbing at a time. My groups are usually around 4 to 6 people and we all wait our turn in consideration for the rest of the world. No reason the rest of the world can't do the same. :wink:
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corpse
Aug 26, 2004, 3:26 PM
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Let this topic die already, just much to do over nothing..
wildtrail - read my reply on the previous page... 1 active rope, and 1 rope in the process of being pulled is hardly being rude... They ASSUMED that both ropes were being used, I guess thats what they get for ASSUMING..
IMO, I'm king of sharing - I will always offer my rope to share even before others think of asking to hop on it, and then I'll offer to belay. I'll even lend out any of my gear for a fellow leader - hell, I OFFER my gear if it seems they are in need of something extra. It would have been cool for the ppl to scramble up the horrible 50 FEET of easy terrain to ask what are plans are - would have been nice to meet a few more climbers. Or was someone in the group supposed to run down to em and invite em over?
Now, do you REALLY think we were being dicks?
edit: wildtrail, after rereading your post again, I thought I'd add one thing.. the rope that they were taking down was just led and followed, it wasn't a TR setup.. of course, this doesn't matter to passer-byers as they don't obviously know if it was led or TR that was hanging for hours.
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wildtrail
Aug 26, 2004, 8:28 PM
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Corpse,
I wasn't singling you out or even referring to you, buddy. :)
I was just making a general statement that climbers and climber groups can be rude in the afore mentioned aspect.
Not pointing fingers. Just saying if one goes in a large group to not take a whole area up with TRs, especially when they aren't being used. Just saying set up only what is going to be used.
Cheers!
*letting topic die*
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climbfrog
Aug 26, 2004, 9:41 PM
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Go to Misery Rocks, just get there early. If its busy, go down the gully to Pork Chop. There are three climbs smack dab next to each other to climb. I would wake up at like 5 am to get to Misery though. I like it there because the approach is super easy, and there is lots of room there for people to hang out. If you take up climbs and arent using the ropes, just offer people to climb them. Just make sure your set-up is bomber. Lots of great moderate climbs at Misery.
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wildtrail
Aug 29, 2004, 2:13 PM
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Good suggestion.
Also, if you get up at 5am and start your approach ASAP, you'll have 'til nearly 10am before it starts to fill in. Usually by the time most climbers are coming, I'm packing up and heading back as I usually am at the East Bluff no later than 5:30.
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