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jstone
Aug 21, 2004, 12:08 AM
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From Sandstone Quary parking area we hiked about 100 yards along the main trail SE toward the 2nd pull-out until we came to a break in the steep left drop-off to wash- from here we could scramble down about 50 feet to the corridor bottom- while scrambling down you can look up to the arete on the right wall facing Northwest and see the anchors- the climb starts in the corridor bottom very much in the shade (South wall and Westmost end of corridor). Believe it was about 60' with 5 or 6 bolts to chain anchors. Could not identify in any guides and do not believe it was near the Pier- could be wrong. The start of this climb is in an East/West runnning corridor- and is at the West-most end. As the corridor runs East (about 150') it turns very steep and no other bolted routes on either wall. From the start of this climb, you can step North through a hole and into another tiny E/W corridor, or continue North into a more open area with a crack climb directly ahead on another West facing wall- no bolts, but chain anchors about 35 feet up- these are visible from the trail.
California Crags???
Just very curious- hope my description will help someone to help me. My 10 year old lead it a couple of months ago and keeps asking me if I figured out what it was... he regularly leads 10s and projects 11s- he and I both felt it was mid 10s. I do have a pic of this climb- posted in California Crags- I was facing north while taking pic of my son.
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the-gnome
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Aug 21, 2004, 10:25 AM
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Sounds like the Pier...
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actionfigure
Aug 23, 2004, 12:19 PM
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It sounds like route that got put up by Leo Henson recentley. It should be decribed (not very well) in Swains third edition. I seem to remember 2 routes that shared an anchor.
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jstone
Aug 23, 2004, 12:27 PM
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i dunno, think i only have 2nd edition. but am sure there is no other nearby route-- to share the anchor. the closest route (chain anchors) is a crack north about 45 feet and through a little tunnel opening to get to it. i did review all possible descriptions regarding the pier and nothing matches- pier describes red outcrop, all these rocks are mostly white- the red is further east about 50-100 yards along the trail. hey- thanks for the input.
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t.vegas
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Aug 23, 2004, 7:35 PM
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I noticed people putting in routes in that area a couple of times last winter.
Hopefully swains next book will have those included.
Blue Skies!
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actionfigure
Aug 24, 2004, 7:43 AM
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It's deffinetly not the peir. check out the 3rd edition.
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jstone
Aug 25, 2004, 1:36 PM
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ok, my book IS the third edition (took me a while- dog eared- litterally, i though i only had 2nd edition) but i looked through and through- no good description in 3rd. thanks to all so far... i'll keep searching. please note- i do have a pic of my son on this climb posted- and in the background you can see the other northward crack climb, and behind his head or thereabouts should be the chain anchors for that climb...???
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cavitycrew
Dec 14, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2004
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some friends and I went to these climbs today and we also can not find printed beta on these routes. The trad line is short but superb, the moves are quite unique. any beta , names, grades, FA's would be cool to know. Post if you got'um!
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em.a.ye
Nov 7, 2007, 10:52 AM
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hidden corridor. route info is in the new Handren guide.
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