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saskclimber


Aug 21, 2004, 1:29 PM
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Screwgate vs Autolock
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Ok, after debating the merrits of screwgates vs autolockers with ColdClimb (specifically the Omega Jake, but this could apply to all locking biners...), what do you think is the best locking method for a biner (not the actual best locking biner). Whether it be screw, one stage auto, two stage auto, ball ones (like Petzl), or even wrapping a hunk of duct tape around the gate :P. Some things to consider are safety, convenience, maintainance, and life..

As for me, after thinking it over and trying both, I came to the conclusion that I like screwgates better. I appreciate being able to clip/unclip it without having to disengage the locking mechanism. But boy, those auto's sure are fun to play with aren't they... Any thoughts?

*I searched for a thread like this before I made this one...


boz84


Aug 21, 2004, 2:17 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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I was looking at 2 petzl (i believe) auto lockers, and noticed one feature on one that the other didnt have that was interesting.

On the Petzl ball lockers, when the gate is open, if you let go to close it, it stays unlocked till its closed, and then locks shut.

On the TriAct (I believe, the other petzl autolocker), if you let go with it unlocked and opened, the locker snaps shut before the biner is closed, so you have to hold the locking mechanism open as you close the gate.

Minor detail im sure, but im not sure if anyone else has seen that. Definitely a reason why i would NEVER buy the TriAct's. Just seems like a PITA to close a biner like that.


daggerx


Aug 21, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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when making a anchor or something like that use a screw gate, and when belaying or something like that use a auto


chrisparedes


Aug 21, 2004, 5:34 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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I prefer screwlocking gates. No particular reason other than I just like knowing that I physically locked the gate with my own two hands. It's more of a mental thing for me I guess.


stymingersfink


Aug 21, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Use a screwgate in the wild, where you will be encountering dirt and grime on a daily basis.

Use an auto-locker or twist lock for the gym. When used out of doors, you run a greater chance of having the spring mechanism fouling with dirt and grime. Oftentimes when this happens, the gate will close, but the barrel of the twist lock will not automatically rotate to perform the locking operation. When this happens, you have nothing more than a standard gate carabiner.

When the locking mechanism on any locker begins to get dirty, clean per manufacturers suggestion (often warm soapy water), air dry and lube with a non-petroleum based lubricant. WD-40 is specifically warned against, as the residue left behind will act as a magnet for dust, thereby increasing the frequency with which you will need to clean them.


YMMV


saskclimber


Aug 21, 2004, 6:19 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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any time that I've had to clean and lubricate a locker in the past, I found that after washing it out with water and drying it, a shot of powdered graphite lubricant (originally designed for locks) works really good.


Partner euroford


Aug 21, 2004, 7:23 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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i'm a huge fan of autolockers. i can open and close them easily with one hand, its a convience thing and they have never let me down.

i used to almost exclusivly use Yates Gecko biners as they are wonderfull autolockers with notch free noses. since i switched to the trango b52 i've found the odd shape of the gecko's doesn't work very smoothly so i've switched to HB HMS autolockers which i like allot. though they are not the smoothest, ive found those to be the BD mini pearbiners but i don't use them becouse they are screwlocks.

so if anybody ever finds a round stock, keynose autolocking biner in an HMS shape please let me know. two of them belong on my harness for belay puposes.

i do keep three of the BD enduro screwgates on my harness for building belays though. thats just becouse they are lightweight. so i'm not opposed to screwgates, i just prefer my belay biners to be autolockers.


Partner euroford


Aug 21, 2004, 7:27 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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sweet i just found the ultimate biner. yates updated there biner pages and now they have my dream biner, the HMS twistlock.

http://www.yatesgear.com/rescue/hardware/carabiners/index.htm#1


korporal


Aug 21, 2004, 7:29 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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I like screwgates. I don't like trying to figure out some cryptic sequence to open and close a biner. It just seems easier to manually twist the locking part than to push down, twist, and then push up. And they are simpler. Less moving parts less things to break.


schnoz


Aug 21, 2004, 9:39 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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I've been using an autolock Jake Jr. for belaying with an ATC lately and liking it a lot more than a screwlock Jake Jr.

For any other purpose though, I haven't liked autolocks at all. I find them difficult to open and close one handed if I'm trying to get some webbing or a rope into them at the same time as opening them. Anyone with any pointers on how to do that easily?


Partner coldclimb


Aug 21, 2004, 10:16 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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My biggest reason for liking screwgates more is that they only lock when I tell them to. ;) I've had times when I clip my autolocker to the anchor chains, then reach for the rope and bring it up to clip it, and I then have to bring my other hand in just to get the rope into the biner. Autolocks are great, but I like a good screwgate more.

Not like the problems I have with autolocks are such that I wouldn't use them though, just minor inconveniences.


Partner tattooed_climber


Aug 21, 2004, 10:17 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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ok, i have a DMM Lynx Safelock (auto-lock) which i only use with my daisy chain for ancoring myself in


now, i still prefer screwgates over auto-locks for two reasons

1)-ScrewGates are just cheaper

2)-the feeling of sercurty of PHYSICLY screwing closed a screwgate over an idiot-proof auto-lock *which can break or become obstructive

i rather take the 3 extra seconds per biner.....


saskclimber


Aug 21, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Nobody has brought up the complacency issue which rc.com is infamous for...


sustainedclimber


Aug 21, 2004, 11:29 PM
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In reply to:
I prefer screwlocking gates. No particular reason other than I just like knowing that I physically locked the gate with my own two hands. It's more of a mental thing for me I guess.

DITTO


tech_dog


Aug 21, 2004, 11:32 PM
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screwgates for anchors, ball lockers for belay.


cgailey


Aug 22, 2004, 1:53 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I prefer screwlocking gates. No particular reason other than I just like knowing that I physically locked the gate with my own two hands. It's more of a mental thing for me I guess.

DITTO

Ditto the Ditto

Never liked the auto lockers...especially around snow and ice!


overlord


Aug 22, 2004, 1:29 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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i prefer screws. i dont know why. i just feel kinda safer. doesnt take that much longer to lock them and you know theyre really locked.


Partner tattooed_climber


Aug 22, 2004, 5:18 PM
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i think everyone here agrees

Screw Gates--> :righton:

Auto-Locks--> :nono:


petsfed


Aug 22, 2004, 6:11 PM
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I use screwgates because they were cheap when I needed a locking biner or 3. If I had my way, I'd have one autolocker, specifically for belaying. You only have to forget to screw it shut once to get all paranoid about it.


Partner euroford


Aug 22, 2004, 7:22 PM
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In reply to:
i think everyone here agrees

Screw Gates--> :righton:

Auto-Locks--> :nono:

some do, i don't :D


johnny_b_goode


Aug 22, 2004, 7:25 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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In reply to:
On the TriAct (I believe, the other petzl autolocker), if you let go with it unlocked and opened, the locker snaps shut before the biner is closed, so you have to hold the locking mechanism open as you close the gate.

I use locking biners for anchors and I have the Petzl Triact sytem for belaying, and I certainly do not have this same problem of the biner locking before it closes. Perhaps the biner that you were using was broken??


ihuang


Aug 22, 2004, 7:39 PM
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Re: Screwgate vs Autolock [In reply to]
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I use a auto locker on my belay device so I don't forget to lock the biner. It's one place that forgetting to lock the biner can be fatal.


jamaica


Aug 22, 2004, 7:41 PM
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I can't stand autolock at all, flat out hate them. It's so annoying to me to be trying to mess with an autolock everytime I want to open it, which if you think about it is quite often. Screwgates are much better, in my opinion.

Jamaica 8^)


biff


Aug 22, 2004, 7:42 PM
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I like Skrew gate lockers.

My favourite one sofar is the AustriAlpin notchless locking gate. The notchless is great to use to anchor in becuase it is really easy to get off a busy anchor system. Plus the skrew action is really smooth on that model, I can lock it with one flicking motion of my thumb. I only have 1 of these biners (I won it at a comp), but use it almost all the time.


ihuang


Aug 22, 2004, 10:00 PM
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I have a BD Airlock. It's pretty easy to work with: just pull and twist.

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