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May 12, 2002, 5:29 PM
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kelownaclimber
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As you may know kelownaclimber and I did Squamish over the last few days. What kelowna climber didn't mention in his posting is that he prevented a new climber from a certain long term dirt-nap.
We were coming up to the "Neat and cool" crag and both noticed a belayer having some problems lowering his partner. The partner eventually make it to the ground.
I carry on getting set for a climb and chatting with the other climbers. What I didn't notice was kelownaclimber still watching these new climbers from a distance.
All of a sudden kelownaclimber starts yelling instuctions at the belayer... We all start to tune back in and realize that the belayer has taken his climber of belay and is away from the rope. He tought his climber was pulling the rope to rap. The climber was actually lowering off. No belayer on the rope! Mike is yelling at the climber and belayer at the same time. The rest of us are watching this unfold in slow motion. Mike gets the climber stopped and the belayer back on just in time as we are all stand there in total shock. This exact thing had happened at this same crag just weeks before with very serious injuries as a result.
We were all so upset at these kids heading out climbing with all new gear and no instruction.

Kudos to "kelownaclimber" Those two kids owe you...

L8r
john


sharmagod


May 12, 2002, 5:34 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Great eyes Kelownaclimber!!!Your the man!!!



crackaddict


May 12, 2002, 5:42 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Good job man! I have seen a similar incedent happen before. The belayer let go of the brake when his partner cliped in to be lowered. The climber began to fall. He fell 30' before his belayer caught him.
If he would have dropped any further he would have landed on a ledge sideways.
Good eyes and good job!


miagi


May 12, 2002, 6:06 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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some punks in slip knot shirts ect. decided to free solo a 50 foot cliff because they wanted to show off in front of all the other climbers. We walked in while the kid was halfway up the route and were surprised no other climbers told them not too. He had on jeans and sneakers and had no idea what he was doing. Luckly, the route was a lower grade (5.7 maybe?) and he made it to the top. My buds and I were ready to do a rope rescue but somehow he made it up. I wish we could have done the rope rescue without him getting hurt so he would feel stupid in front of everyone and not do it again. He probably will do it again since he felt all proud of himself


sharmagod


May 12, 2002, 6:11 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Yeah thats sad when you see something like that.Like what are they trying to prove???



jmlangford


May 12, 2002, 6:17 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Next time I do something stupid, I hope kelownaclimber is there to stop me! Geeez! Great job!


miagi


May 12, 2002, 6:46 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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It was 5 of my friends and myself up at McConnells. We were bouldering but had ropes for some top roping. We all looked at this kids and some of us were like "OMG i cant watch". That would have been horrible to hear him hit the ground. A couple of times he went off route and got stuck up there. It is people like him that fall and kill themself and then the rest of the climbers have to suffer the wrath of the state park banning climbing.


kelownaclimber


May 13, 2002, 6:39 AM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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It was just what any of us would do,luckily I did notice before it was too late.It seems that there are quite a few new climbers venturing outdoors now so we really need to keep an eye out for this kind of stuff.Hopefully we can catch the newbies making mistakes BEFORE we have to aid in a rescue and ruin our day.PLEASE if you are a beginner...GO with an EXPERIENCED climber your first few times!!!!
Cheers,
Mike


bcmtngrrrl


May 13, 2002, 7:35 AM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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  Good job man!!! Neat and Cool has claimed a few lives, and injured a great many. Nice to know one less made it to that list.


krustyklimber


May 14, 2002, 9:01 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Now I owe you 2 beers, and good ones not some American swill!!!

Jeff


kelownaclimber


May 14, 2002, 9:15 PM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Beer GOOOOOOOD
Damn you Americans know how to get us every time,just ply us with a couple beers.We look forward to seeing you Jeff...


Partner polarwid


Jan 6, 2003, 11:00 AM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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[small]This topic was moved to the Feedback & Trip Reports forum by polarwid[/small]


sheppe


Jan 6, 2003, 11:30 AM
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kelownaclimber [In reply to]
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Nice work! Do you know if the climbers were locals?

-Sheppe


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