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flamer
Aug 26, 2004, 10:12 PM
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I finished improving the rappel route on the Black wall today. The black wall is on Mt. evans above Idaho Springs colo. On the first anchor- from the rim- I removed an old 1/4 inch button head and replaced it with a brand new bolt from the ASCA (I used the same hole). I also added camoflage chains. On the second anchor I removed a $hit pile of old Tat, pulled one of the old pins, added 1 bolt, and put in camo chains.
josh
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bobd1953
Aug 26, 2004, 10:54 PM
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Good job Josh as that rappel was crap. Richard Aschert and I put the second rappel (about 40 feet left) when we were working on our new route. Most parties now use that rappel to gain route on that side of the wall.
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jcinco
Aug 26, 2004, 11:05 PM
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In reply to: I finished improving the rappel route on the Black wall today. The black wall is on Mt. evans above Idaho Springs colo. On the first anchor- from the rim- I removed an old 1/4 inch button head and replaced it with a brand new bolt from the ASCA (I used the same hole). I also added camoflage chains. On the second anchor I removed a $hit pile of old Tat, pulled one of the old pins, added 1 bolt, and put in camo chains. josh
Thanks for doing this, Josh! I was just up there a month ago and was thinking that an upgrade was crucial. I assume this the second set of anchors you come to on the rim, the one that deposits you about 30 feet left of the start of Good Evans/Road Warrior. A friend of mine has rapped the first set you come to on the rim (farthest climber's left), and was deposited on some even mankier anchors, and then had to scramble out of the gulley to get over to GE/RW. I wonder if this set of anchors should be pulled so there's no confusion with the new set-up.
Additional beta: if either of your 60m ropes are the slightest bit short for the rappels, then you will have to do some pretty sketchy downclimbing.
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flamer
Aug 27, 2004, 12:46 AM
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In reply to: Thanks for doing this, Josh! I was just up there a month ago and was thinking that an upgrade was crucial. I assume this the second set of anchors you come to on the rim, the one that deposits you about 30 feet left of the start of Good Evans/Road Warrior. A friend of mine has rapped the first set you come to on the rim (farthest climber's left), and was deposited on some even mankier anchors, and then had to scramble out of the gulley to get over to GE/RW. I wonder if this set of anchors should be pulled so there's no confusion with the new set-up. Additional beta: if either of your 60m ropes are the slightest bit short for the rappels, then you will have to do some pretty sketchy downclimbing.
The rap route I replaced was the first set of bolts I came too on the top of the wall- unless I missed a set.
I used info from The old front range crags guide, climbingboulder.co, and from people I talked too. I'm pretty sure this was the right line.
When i rapped down to replace the second anchor it all seemed to be right...
I've actually not climbed a route out there yet, was planning too this summer but the weather spoiled my plans. I discovered these anchors in their dilapedated state on a scouting mission, and figured I'd use some of the ASCA bolts given to me to remedy the situation.
I'm also planning on replacing the anchors on "Rusty Dagger", but that might have to wait until next year...
Hey bobd...which line is yours?
josh
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bobd1953
Aug 27, 2004, 1:01 AM
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In reply to: Hey bobd...which line is yours?
The 12c to the left of Good Evans.
Has been a wild and wet year in the high country. Sadly the end of the rockclimbing season is fast approaching up there.
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flamer
Aug 29, 2004, 1:08 AM
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In reply to: The 12c to the left of Good Evans.
I should have know it would be some harda$$ thing...
josh
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