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manboy
May 13, 2002, 3:35 PM
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ok, lets hear it... i heard Nels and Tori took 1st... what about the other 50 or so people... lets have it...(The Results)??
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sharmagod
May 13, 2002, 5:20 PM
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Anyone???I would love to hear the results!!!
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fiend
May 13, 2002, 5:43 PM
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Didn't stick around to hear the results announced, but Seth, Obe and Jody all put in a strong performance and should be up there. It really was hard to judge as problems 4 and 5 of the final spit all but Nels off, while Obe was the only other person to get the zone on problem 5. Brandon also slapped the finish on problem 4, but I'm not sure if ICC rules include the plus system or not.
As for the women, Tori rocked all the problems, only having a tough time on one of the vertical techy problems. Zoe, Brandi and Lisa all did great as well. Tough one to call.
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stewbing
May 13, 2002, 6:14 PM
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Comp Results
Men's Finalists
1) Nels Rosasen (Sk)
2) Seth Mason (Ab)
3) Obe Carrion (USA)
4) Jody Miall (On)
5) Simon Villeneuve (Qc)
6) Jason Holowach (Sk)
7) Brandon Marks (On)
8) Nate Gold (USA)
Women's Finalists
1) Tori Allen (USA)
2) Brandy Mulligan (USA)
3) Zoe Kozub (Canadian Women's Champion) (Ab)
4) Lisa Dumper (On)
5) Anna Araneta (Qc)
6) Marine Cusa (Qc
*Edited to keep "8)" from becoming a smily face*
[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2002-05-13 16:51 ]
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krillen
May 14, 2002, 12:09 AM
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Warning editorial comment to follow:
The comp was bogus. Many of the problems were VERY height dependant. One had a running start with two hold 10-12 ft. up, and another had a jump start, this is fine and good if you were 5'8" and up but when you are to short to reach the holds you get spanked.
Such was the case with Kaizaad Bilimorya. He's not the type to complain, but I am so I will. Kaizaad, and other short competetors were unfairly discriminated against. This was supposed to be a competition, and as such was supposed to be an equal measure of the participants abilities, not their heights. Because Kaizaad is 5'3", he could not reach the starting holds on two problems in a row, jumping, running, it didn't matter. He is a wicked hard boulderer and sport climber, but the final standings show him as MUCH MUCH less than that. I watched as he futily tried to reach the starts on TWO problems for 6 minutes each.
Many times shorter folk have to make extra moves on boulder problems/routes etc. just so they can make it to the next hold, but when they can't even start it due to the length involved, that makes a competition grossly unfair.
For a NATIONAL calibre comp. the routes looked fantastic, IF the climber fit their predetermined body type.
Now I'm not saying Kaizaad would have won it, or even would have made the finals, but due to the height discrimination he didn't even get a chance to SHOW his skills. And to me that is REALLY unfair. He's is a fantastic climber, and too much of a good sport to complain about this, but I feel something needed to be said.
This is my unsolicited opinion, and is not endored by anyone but myself. Take it or leave it. I think the contest was heavily skewed.
[ This Message was edited by: krillen on 2002-05-13 17:13 ]
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fiend
May 14, 2002, 2:38 AM
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hehe, it's all about the spectacle.
You didn't even get to see the supid PVC pipe problem.
Some (relatively) easy moves up a vertical face, to a 20º overhanging face. On the overhang was a 15' long piece of 5" diameter PVC tubing with some foot nubs on the wall on either side. At first it was cool looking, the women had plenty of feet and some jibs screwed on the pipe for use as thumb catches. The thumb catches were stripped off for the men and it ended up looking like a carnival sideshow as they tried to power up it hand over hand. Boring and a waste of energy for the next problem.
When Obe fell on his first attempt he shouted "That's ridiculous!" then gave it one more burn and sat down to rest for the remainder of his 6 minutes deciding not to waste energy on it.
Timmy sets some crazy dynamic problems, most of which are pretty good, but if he decides to try and outdo himself next year then we'll probably end up watching climbers try to mount a greased pole or something.
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sharmagod
May 14, 2002, 3:13 AM
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Well that just totally blows!!!A comp. should never be set up like that.What the h*** are you suppose to do.Get some stilts and strap it to your feet and give it a shot?!Sorry but that just blows!!!
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stewbing
May 14, 2002, 11:58 AM
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The comp wasn't bogus, The comp was very well run and very well set. Sure in the finals there were some interesting choices made for problems but that's something that may have to be addressed for next year. Many of the problems were NOT height dependant. There were what 6 qualifying problems and there was 1 problem that was specifically high. You had to have the ability to make the first move on problem 5. What about Sean McCall 13 years old not any taller that Kaizaad and he made the move on the 5th problem. Sean also made the starting move on problem 4 (another problem you would probably think was set for taller climbers)and pulled his way through on the problem with some sick beta. So to say that the comp was bogus and to say that many of the problems were height dependant is going just a little to far and just a bit misleading.
D
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sharmagod
May 14, 2002, 1:25 PM
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I was talking it over with my brother and I can now see your point Stew.Well maybe not your point, but the fact that even if it was height dependent it still doesn't mean that a small climber can't do it.
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krillen
May 14, 2002, 4:19 PM
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#4 WAS height dependant. there was an additional mat used for the highball portion of that problem and Kaizaad was denied the opportunity to jump from it. It'd STILL be a jump start for him. #5 require you to be able to reach the two holds after the run start Kaizaad couldn't, THAT's what made them height dependant.
To say the comp was bogus WAS a tad inflamitory, but I'm still pissed. the routes looked fun, but that's because I'm almost 6' and wouldn't have a problem reaching these...just trying to make every move after that
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stewbing
May 15, 2002, 2:18 PM
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Krillen,
Go to www.gripped.com and check out Jody's response (post - Routes at Nationals) to the number 4 and number 5 problem. I think that this will rest the case that neither the 4 or 5 problems were height dependant.
D
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krillen
May 15, 2002, 2:36 PM
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been there done that, my responses are posted under Odin. I still disagree even with his arguments.
[ This Message was edited by: krillen on 2002-05-15 07:46 ]
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