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roughster
May 14, 2002, 12:24 PM
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The problem I see is rapelling. If I go 2 120' pitches people will be forced to drag up 2 ropes vs. if I bolt 3 80' pitches, they will be able to do 3 single rope rapels.
What do you think? I am leaning towards 3 pitches, just curious to what the rest of you think?
P.S. and there isn't an established ethic in the area so no worries about that.
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krustyklimber
May 14, 2002, 12:43 PM
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To me it would depend on the approach, if it is short say under fifteen minutes for a trad area and thirty minutes for a sport climb, I wouldn't mind the weight of the extra rope because of the added plaesure of getting full sevice out of each pitch!
I lived in your neighborhood where did you find any rock? Not in Vacaville that's what I'd think anyway! Hey, is the Vasquez Deli still there in town? They made the best burritos! Say hi to Charlie for me!
Jeff
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roughster
May 14, 2002, 12:49 PM
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Not sure on the Burrito shop thing...I'll have to look...
As for rock, I am starting to seriously develop the Auburn Limestone Quarry. There are some good sized walls up on the upper rim that are a bit of a hike to get to.
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jgorris
May 14, 2002, 1:15 PM
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The problem I see is rapelling. If I go 2 120' pitches people will be forced to drag up 2 ropes vs. if I bolt 3 80' pitches, they will be able to do 3 single rope rapels.
Either way people will make at least two rappels, so why not make two longer pitches.
people will be forced to drag up 2 ropes
Climbing on two skinny ropes is good, whereas three 80' raps is a pain in the arse.
Your results may vary.
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wigglestick
May 14, 2002, 2:02 PM
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Do it as 3 pitches. Carrying the extra rope to the crag is not the only problem. You then have to drag it up while climbing which is a pain. Plus if somebody only wanted to rap twice they could still carry a second rope and just skip the lowest set of anchors i.e make one 80' rap and then one 160' rap.
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kelownaclimber
May 14, 2002, 2:12 PM
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If it is a sport route do three pitches for sure.It is nice to only have to take one rope for such a short multipitch.Now if it was 7 or 8 pitches,then I would stretch the pitches out as much as possible.
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wigglestick
May 14, 2002, 2:20 PM
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Even better yet how about this. Of course how you bolt it depends more on the individual character of the route than anything else. So the route is 240 feet straight up. Make the first pitch 150 feet, the second pitch 90 feet. And put a third set of anchors at 50 feet to be used for a single rope descent. That way you climb it in 2 longer pitches and then have the option of 3 single rope raps or 2 double rope raps.
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rockrabbit
May 14, 2002, 2:43 PM
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Personally I would rahter go for the 80' pitch, purelly because I don't like carrying the extra weight.
Rock on
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jt512
May 14, 2002, 3:03 PM
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Three 80-foot pitches. This gives the climber the option of bringing up a second rope and doing two rappels, or not, and doing three rappels.
Also, sport pitches longer than 100' are unusual. Climbers don't expect them, and until the route's length is published in a guidebook, somebody may go up with just one rope.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-05-14 08:09 ]
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krustyklimber
May 15, 2002, 12:48 AM
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I'm an old tradster and I feel robbed any time I don't climb for 150 feet and go boing to the end of my rope on the mantel to the belay!!!
Maybe that's just me though!
Jeff
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treyr
May 16, 2002, 11:26 AM
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I like single pitch sport.
Trob
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