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spider_woman


Aug 21, 2001, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2001
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Fingers
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What is the best finger workout I can do. I have the arm strength but the fingers are lacking. What to do?


manboy


Aug 21, 2001, 5:33 PM
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check out http://www.climbxmedia.com, on the Calander click on August 8th and read what Jarad has to say about it (he's a friend of mine, he has SICK strong fingers, but i can kick his butt in bowling, ha ha).

don't do any of that squeezing a tennis ball (or anything else) stuff, that is BS and won't help your climbing at all. You should do dead hangs on small edges, to start use both hands, and add extra weight so that you can only hang on for 5-10 seconds. also, just climb a whole sshit load. for more beta, check out that website.

http://www.climbxmedia.com, August 8th

[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-21 17:37 ]


jds100


Aug 21, 2001, 9:17 PM
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Check out the comprehensive and relatively huge training section on http://www.planetfear.com put together by Neil Gresham. Not everything will pertain to what you're looking for this time, but it's the best single-source training guide I've seen.

There are some good and inexpensive hangboards out there (Metolius, for one, has a lot of variation to its holds and edges), and that's a great place to begin. Hangboards are good pretty anytime, as well as with a specific program, and they're more easily adapted to a small space and/or a small budget. Later -LATER- campus board hangs and workouts can be incorporated into your training. If there's an indoor climbing gym near you, make the most of that by climbing and bouldering a lot, and develop a routine or program to your climbing workout. Otherwise, you get bored, you get distracted, and you can't gauge your progress. Finally, don't rush, and don't overdo it. Strengthen your "opposite" muscle groups, too, so you don't get injured from imbalanced development.

Good Luck! I think training is blast!

[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-08-21 21:18 ]


whateverjrs


Aug 22, 2001, 6:38 PM
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i would invest in hangboard. they aren't that expensive


compclimber


Aug 22, 2001, 6:53 PM
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 If you get a hangboard try this find the smallest edge you can hang for about five seconds before flying off. Get on that edge for the five seconds come off for five then back on for five do this until a minute has elapsed. You can also do this on a door jamb if you can hang it.


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