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Fantastic climbs at the RED!!!
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vawterclimber


Sep 7, 2004, 1:25 PM
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Fantastic climbs at the RED!!!  (North_America: United_States: Kentucky: East: Red_River_Gorge__Climbing_)
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I have designated the red as my hometown crag living just a short 3.5 hours away :cry: . I have the guidebook that I think everyone down there has. ( The one with the great color pick of that guy climbing Rock wars with the red knit cap.). Anyway, I have noticed when I am down there that some of the climbs are not in the guide book. We have climbed a few of the unknowns. Some were good and some were not. Does any on have any recomendations for some great routes down there, sport or trad, I like both.


alpnclmbr1


Sep 7, 2004, 2:02 PM
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alpnclmbr1 moved this thread from Beginners to Regional Discussions.


cragmasterp


Sep 7, 2004, 2:13 PM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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I have only climbed at the Red a few times, but the one route that sticks in my mind was called Jungle Beat, rated 5.9. We climbed this in 3 pitches. The first pitch climbs a (easily protectable) bombay chimney out a 40' roof! Then you belay in a huge hueco. The second pitch (crux) pulls into a hand crack/dihedral. The third pitch follows the beautiful dihedral to the top of the cliff. This is a fairly tall route for the Red. The descent is very interesting - we had to walk/rappel down through a ledgey forest.

I thought this route was much more memorable than many of the classic sport routes that we did that trip. Also check out Andromeda Strain, a 5.10 crack. Very pumpy.


mistymountainhop


Sep 7, 2004, 2:50 PM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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I have the guidebook that I think everyone down there has. ( The one with the great color pick of that guy climbing Rock wars with the red knit cap.).


I think thats Dave Hume............. someone correct me if im wrong.


For classic Red climbs my favorite is the classic Fuzzy Undercling 11b, an overhung jug haul at military wall. Located at Roadside craig i think, is Ro Shampo, one of the best known 12's around.


redpointron


Sep 7, 2004, 3:28 PM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I have the guidebook that I think everyone down there has. ( The one with the great color pick of that guy climbing Rock wars with the red knit cap.).


I think thats Dave Hume............. someone correct me if im wrong.


For classic Red climbs my favorite is the classic Fuzzy Undercling 11b, an overhung jug haul at military wall. Located at Roadside craig i think, is Ro Shampo, one of the best known 12's around.

nope...it's not dave hume. guy named aaron fullerton. great pic and an amazing route.

fuzzy and ro are great routes and the list of routes i could recommend are endless. whether you are just starting climbing or an old hat, roadside is a good bet. many of the easier routes, near kampsight and c sharp can be found on redriverclimbing.com in their online guidebook. the 10s like AWOL and crazyfingers are amazing.

i could go on and on, but check out that website or p.m. if you want a partner to show you around sometime.

r.r.


vawterclimber


Sep 10, 2004, 10:09 AM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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Thanks for the posts guys. What I am really looking for though are some hidden Gems, you know, climbs that are not in the guidebook but are not to be missed. Any ideas, I am going there this weekend.
:lol:


dhoyne


Sep 10, 2004, 10:37 AM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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Check out www.redriverclimbing.com -- it has an up to date guide book and a sometimes helpful, sometimes comical forum.


lordjim


Sep 10, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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In reply to:
a sometimes helpful, sometimes comical forum.

Understatement of the year.


une


Sep 10, 2004, 10:58 AM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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I don't know the name of this climb and I'm positive it's not in the guide book. At the Torrent Falls area, if you walk back under the waterfall there are two climbs that share the same start. You can find them by looking for the stack of rocks you will need to stand on to reach the first hold. The opening moves include campusing on jugs till you reach a good layback crack to make the first clip. There shold be a good stick nearby if you want to take some stress of the opening moves. Once you pull past the first two clips and over a small roof the two routes diverge. To the right is a .10d and the left is a .10b. I only climbed the left route and it was a blast.

I'm looking to go back to the gorge the first weekend in Oct. I don't know if I will have a partner so if anyone wants to climb that weekend feel free to p.m. me and we can figgure something out.


monopocketmojo


Sep 10, 2004, 11:13 AM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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I'm pretty sure that the routes you're talking about sharing the same start are roach motel (.10d) and rest assured (.10a according to the routes database on rc.com). but I totally know what you're talking about when it comes to those routes back by the falls at Torrent. it's that one that goes up to the right after the campus start that i took a 20' whip off of, going for the fourth clip, fell right into the arete by the start/layback under the roof, and put two puncture holes in my left shin. Good climb, though. after bandaging up i tr'd it (like most of the rest of the climbs that weekend) and it is a great route. I'll have to get back on it and lead up it once my leg heals, maybe for Roctoberfest around oct 9th...


rocket


Sep 10, 2004, 11:24 AM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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Along with redriverclimbing.com check out www.rrgcc.com

Look to the left frame: Classic Climbs. My recommended favorite is Roadside Attraction 5.7 at Roadside, just up from Miguels. 2 pitches. #11 hex before your last move to the bolts. A fun climb.

Not listed: Funk Rock City - Rite of Passage 5.9. About 60 feet of a slightly leaning crack and then 15-20 feet of a real nice dihedral. Gear is small, but a few feet up and the hand holds are bomber.

Have fun!


une


Sep 10, 2004, 12:12 PM
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Re: Fantastic climbs at the RED!!! [In reply to]
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I went to www.redriverclimbing.com and looked up those routes.

It's Alive 5.10d ** (S)
and
Reanimator 5.10b *** (S)

are the names that website gives. I have to agree with the three stars for reanimator. It's just a great climb. I'm looking forward to getting on It's Alive in a couple of weeks. Wait a minute, that means I gotta start working on my endurance. No more bouldering for the rest of the month.


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