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skibabeage
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Sep 8, 2004, 6:04 PM
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climbersoze


Sep 15, 2004, 5:31 AM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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In reply to:
"Life is precious. We don't go into the mountains to die, we go in to celebrate life."

Very well put.

Good article. Thanks for posting.

-Ed


fullahsiffur


Sep 16, 2004, 5:43 PM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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Hmm... I've met him.


southbayclimber


Sep 27, 2004, 10:03 AM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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We met him on Rainier during our unsuccessfull attempt. Here is his other accomplishments.

Climbing Resume
473 summits of Mount Rainier, Washington (all-time record holder for ascents)
Also winter ascent record holder for Mount Rainier, 40+ ascents
13 expeditions to Mount McKinley, Alaska
15 expeditions to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska
3 expeditions to Mt. Everest via North Face
1 expedition to Mt. Everest via North Ridge
1 expedition to Kangchenjunga
1 expedition to Aconcagua, Argentina
1 expedition to the Ecuadorian Volcanoes
10 expeditions to the Mexican Volcanoes
Yearly guided ascents of the Alps since 1987
Yearly guided ascents of the Dolomites, Italy, since 1998
Successful ski crossing of South George Island, Antarctica
Yearly guided ascents of Mt. Whitney, California
Yearly guided ice climbing seminars to Ouray, Colorado
Hundreds of ascents of alpine peaks and rock climbs throughout the West,
including the North Cascades, the Sierras, the Tetons, Smith Rocks, Joshua
Tree and the Needles

Also here is the response to our party when we were turned down.


Jason...
...I certainly do remember the climb. We saw your group of 4 up above the Cleaver and thought for sure that you had summitted. The crevasse you crossed was right about at 13,000 feet. We would allow another hour and a half to summit from there. I turned my team around just below that bridge. I didn't like the new snow accumulation and the winds were getting bad. I was worried about my party being able to descend in the new, sticky snow with limited visibility. When I turned around, all of the other RMI teams turned around below me. It sounds to me like you made a wise decision to turn back when you did. Nice work! This is the difficult part of mountaineering, knowing when to turn back before the margin of safety gets too slim. I like to err on the safe side. Climbing is one of the great joys of my life, but it is certainly not worth dying for!
I hope to see you in the mountains one of these days,
George Dunn
International Mountain Guides
phone (425) 222-4958
george@mountainguides.com
www.mountainguides.com


autumngirl


Sep 29, 2004, 6:29 AM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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I love living in Seattle


trangtu


Nov 20, 2004, 11:45 PM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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He was my guide on Rainier when I first got into climbing, and was great.


summitclimbnw


Feb 21, 2005, 12:03 AM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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??


summitclimbnw


Feb 21, 2005, 12:16 AM
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.. [In reply to]
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..


billcoe_


Feb 21, 2005, 11:56 AM
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Re: Being Forthcomming About What You Did And Your Records [In reply to]
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In reply to:

473 climbs of Mt Rainier?

I'm curious what the forum thinks this means. ............................


Related: Dr. Steve Boyer of Portland Oregon has tallied up his total summits of Mt Hood, and claims.. (blah blah blah blah



Dan, you might be an OK person, but in your posts you really come off sounding like a little pussy jackass.

Give it a rest will ya? Why don't you just ask Steve, who is now over 50, to come out for a head to head climb and then when you crow, at least it will have meaning.


-Bill Coe


summitclimbnw


Feb 21, 2005, 10:33 PM
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Re: Mountain guide climbs into Rainier record book [In reply to]
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Additional proof on Steve Boyer and his record claims:

http://www.photomediagroup.com/archive/2002-fall/destinations.html
This article shows Boyer on Hood during his circumnavigation of Hood with Dave Waag.

As writen:
"Climber Steve Boyer looks over Eliot Glacier while guiding the author in a circumnavigation of Mount Hood at the 8,600-foot level. The 11,237-foot volcano is a Mecca for Pacific Northwest Mountaineers
Photo Dave Waag"

Boyer has led the public (climbing and non climbing) into thinking he did the circumnavigation of Hood on the REGULAR route - the Timberline Trail/PCT, a 42 mile route.

Boyer and Waag's route, being way up high, for instance, 2,700 vertical feet higher than where the trail is at Timberline Lodge, did only A FRACTION of this 42 miles. Estimates have it as well under 30 miles and more like 25 or less.

Boyer has made public statements representing his ski circumnavigation as the ski circumnavigation RECORD. Comparing it along side John Coffee's 42 mile trail run record.

BOYER DID NOT TO THE COMMONLY UNDERSTOOD CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MT HOOD, and, HE HAS NOT BEEN FORTHCOMMING ABOUT WHAT ROUTE HE DID, as seen in emails from him and public statements from him. Ask around.

SECONDLY:
Boyer's claim for Portland to Hood via bike, climb Hood, bike back to Portland....HE ABSOLUTELY DID NOT BREAK THE PRE-1900 RECORD. The 1896 record (not sure of the exact date), was by people who biked NOT all the way up to Timberline Lodge to start their climb. No. They biked to Government Camp and started their climb from there. (Pre 1900 there was actually NO road up to Timberline Lodge). Climbing starting from Government Camp adds 6.7+ miles to the climb round-trip, and thousands of vertical feet. (The climb from Gov't Camp to the Lodge back then was on the now Glade Trail starting near the highway (now hwy 26), and 3.35+miles each way, 6.7 round-trip, and at 3,780' (adding well over 2,000 vertical feet one way, and about 4,500 vertical feet round-trip.

STEVE BOYER OMITTED 6.7 MILES AND 4,500+ VERTICAL FEET FROM HIS
PORTLAND-MT HOOD-PORTLAND BIKE/CLIMB.

Biking up and back down from the Lodge is much much much easier than climbing from Gov't Camp up and back down. Much easier.

BOYER HAS NOT BEEN FORTHCOMMING ABOUT THIS TO THE CLIMBING AND NON CLIMBING PUBLIC.

Still, his "record" has upstaged the pre-1990 record. Boyer sought out major press coverage and this 'record' of his is on in his resume that has garnered him great notariety and reputation.

SO, to summarize.
BOYER DID NOT BREAK THE PRE-1990 PORTLAND-HOOD-PORTLAND BIKE/CLIMB RECORD.
BOYER DID NOT BREAK GARY LEECH'S 1936 RECORD.
BOYER DID NOT SET A CIRCUMNAVIGATION RECORD ON THE TIMBERLINE TRAIL/PCT.
BOYER DID NOT SET A MOST-CONSECUTIVE-MONTHLY-HOOD-CLIMBS-RECORD (again as shown above he did a great number of his climbs only 1/2 way after taking the chair lift up 1/2 of the mountain).

ALSO, to summarize:
BOYER HAS LED THE PUBLIC TO BELIEVE HE DID BREAK AND/OR SET THE ABOVE RECORDS AND/OR PERSONAL BESTS.

WWW.mountainspeedclimbing.org has some reports on some of these matters.


billcoe_


Feb 22, 2005, 1:20 PM
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..


Hi Dan,

I see you edited your posts, so I suspect your second one might have been pretty bad but didn't get to read it. Mine may sound too rough as well.

May I suggest letting your climbing do your talking for you. Get Chad Kellog and Steve Boyer, maybe Tim and who knows who else and a couple of friends to time you and have a go at it.

Then the discussion would be totally re-focused. You'd feel better about it too I bet, win lose or draw.

Regards:

Bill


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