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k1srfr
Sep 9, 2004, 4:22 PM
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I heard some bad news about Kelso? Is it covered in moss and stuff? Has anyone else been there lately that could fill me in?
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hoppinbig
Sep 9, 2004, 4:31 PM
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I'm not a fan of Kelso at all... its at the bottom of my list when climbing in Milton - but its fine to climb at. No moss... it can get quite dirty and dusty... to me the place is a pile... but to each their own.
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mumarkz
Sep 9, 2004, 4:32 PM
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I know its been raining a lot lately - but moss doesn't grow that fast does it? Are you sure you can handle climbs at Kelso anyway?
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jumpingrock
Sep 9, 2004, 4:34 PM
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Yes it is climbable. At least last time I was there.
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yay_chris
Sep 10, 2004, 5:10 AM
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Oh my god... what am i hearing????
Kelso is the shiznit!
Honestly, after Nemo, Kelso is by far where it's at. The rock is better there than at Rattlesnake or Buffalo because it isn't a very frequented place. It's not polished, the climbs are higher, and to top it all off you don't need to line up for climbs.
Man, for trad... the big K is mighty fine. Go try Jolly Roger. One of the best climbs in Ontario. Or Dragline, or Zip, or Flaked Out... the list really just goes on.
There is even some nasty hard sport climbs if you happen to be a climbing hero.
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mumarkz
Sep 10, 2004, 12:27 PM
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Hey Yay_Chris,
Yah - I like Kelso too. I'm just a Noob, but its the best place I've seen in Ontario so far. Where is Jolly Roger in relation to Dragline?
Thanks,
Z
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Sep 10, 2004, 1:06 PM
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Kelso is only second to Nemo because of the number of routes, but there is are many fine routes with lots of solid gear. Just stay out of the quary which is now off limits, as far as I am aware.
Many people don't like Kelso because thier butts are too heavy to walk up the trail. However, watch out at the top as it is covered in poison ivy.
Take a chance with Kelso and I am sure that you will enjoy yourself and return many more times.
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hoppinbig
Sep 10, 2004, 1:36 PM
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Actually I don't like Kelso because just about every trad climb I have done there was either dirty/dusty or polished and the fact that I belayed a friend of mine while he fell off a route and almost killed himself there...
And to the guy who said Kelso is the best climbing in Ontario that he has done so far... dude get out of Milton... you will blow your mind at some of the stuff we have here.
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mumarkz
Sep 10, 2004, 2:54 PM
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Yo Hoppingbig,
Where are some other good spots? Been in the Glen, and Jordan Train bridge. Also been to Quebec. Where else is there?
Thanks,
Z
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hoppinbig
Sep 10, 2004, 3:06 PM
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Mumarkz,
What kind of climbing you looking for dude?
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k1srfr
Sep 10, 2004, 3:11 PM
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Naa Z, u just stay in Milton or that Train Bridge... Don't worry about leaving... We don't need anymore noobs out and about.
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mumarkz
Sep 10, 2004, 3:14 PM
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Yo,
Just top roping right now - next summer I hope to get into sport lead so Milton is probably a good place for now.
Where is a good place to start Sport Leading?
Z
K1Srfr - get back in the river you Gym rat
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hoppinbig
Sep 10, 2004, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: Yo, Where is a good place to start Sport Leading?
The gym. Seriously. It's a controlled environment - take a lead course. Not so much to learn how to lead climb but to learn how to lead belay. Being able to give dynamic belays is one of the most important lessons you can learn in climbing... it could very well save someone's life (trust me on this one).
I don't really top rope so I can't help you... most of the places worthwhile to climb at in Ontario require a leader. For toproping you have Kelso, Rattlesnake and Buffalo Crag... Once you learn to lead (or atleast make friends with someone who leads) go to Nemo, Old Baldy, Lion's Head, TV Tower (sport) and Bon Echo (trad).
Lion's Head is really the best crag in Ontario - the only place I'd call a destination crag.
We have tons of great climbing within a days drive - the daks are so freaking amazing, Gunks rule, Seneca rocks (literally), RRG in Kentucky is heaven, T-wall in TN is home to some of the best cracks on the east, NC is amazing for slab, Cannon/ North Conway are spectacular, NRG is a sport climbers wet dream.
Warning though - the more you climb out of ontario - the less stoked you will be about climbing in the Milton area.
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mumarkz
Sep 10, 2004, 3:37 PM
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OK - Thanks Hoppin - I'll be in the gym a lot this winter so Maybe I can hit those spots next summer.
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cam
Sep 10, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Yes, do yourself a favour and learn in the gym. When you venture outside, be mindfull that leading outdoors is not the same as leading indoors for so many reasons. If you go to Nemo, beware of a climb called Wide Load (supposed 5.9), the easiest bolted line at Nemo. It has become VERY polished and has serious fall potential. If you have a stick clip, use it for the first and second bolts. If you don't have a stick clip...get one...they are good for beating those who will mock you for having one :D
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Sep 10, 2004, 3:38 PM
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Agreed, some of thhe route are polished and dirty, but its not bad compared to everything else we have in the area. Too bad about your friend, but I find the gear there to be good and have never had problems with fall or catching them there.
I would be intrested to know what happened with the fall and your ideas on why it went that way.
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hoppinbig
Sep 10, 2004, 3:53 PM
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Oni.
The fall was totally my buddy's fault - he doesnt trad very often - and got on a climb even after we had a talk about it - was my first and only time at Kelso - it was supposed to be a moderate climb as my buddy doesn't trad very often. The 'route' he was looking at didn't sound like the route in the book... I advised him to find another - he didn't want to.
He climbed up about 2/3 of the way got to a bulge placed a #2 camalot then climbed up onto the bulge with great difficulty... failed and fell quite a ways. On his way down he hit a small ledge (as he was up high above his last piece there was noway for me to keep him off this ledge) he flipped upside down (helmet prevented further injury) and then continued to fall towards a much bigger ledge... the #2 camalot was the only thing between him and cratering on the ledge... a nice soft catch ensured the piece held and he came to a stop hanging upside down about 6 feet above the ledge.
One of the scariest things I have ever seen in my life was watching this guy cartwheeling down the cliff towards me...
The fall was totally his fault... he got on an uncertain climb, climbed into a difficult section of rock without adding more gear... etc etc
Thankfully he went away with only a broken ankle and a great story.
So thats why I don't like the area - nothing really against it - just bad karma in my mind.
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Sep 10, 2004, 4:24 PM
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Wow, that's quite the adventure. I hope you will some day visit Kelso again and discover that I has a lot to offer.
I to have been around during some bad falls, but I guess I am a bit cold as I work in the field of emergancy services and see many nasty things.
Hopefully your friend healed up and got back on the rock.
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tradnomad
Sep 10, 2004, 4:50 PM
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In reply to: We have tons of great climbing within a days drive - the daks are so freaking amazing, Gunks rule, Seneca rocks (literally), RRG in Kentucky is heaven, T-wall in TN is home to some of the best cracks on the east, NC is amazing for slab, Cannon/ North Conway are spectacular, NRG is a sport climbers wet dream.
That's a pretty long days drive! While your at it, Boulder is only 23hrs away (according to Mapquest).
:)
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yay_chris
Sep 10, 2004, 5:01 PM
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In reply to: Hey Yay_Chris, Yah - I like Kelso too. I'm just a Noob, but its the best place I've seen in Ontario so far. Where is Jolly Roger in relation to Dragline? Thanks, Z
It's about 30 meters right of Dragline. It's actually one of the first climbs you come to after walking up the trail and getting past the quarry.
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hoppinbig
Sep 10, 2004, 5:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: We have tons of great climbing within a days drive - the daks are so freaking amazing, Gunks rule, Seneca rocks (literally), RRG in Kentucky is heaven, T-wall in TN is home to some of the best cracks on the east, NC is amazing for slab, Cannon/ North Conway are spectacular, NRG is a sport climbers wet dream. That's a pretty long days drive! While your at it, Boulder is only 23hrs away (according to Mapquest). :)
Between Dec-Mar when you are dying for some good trad climbing a 13 hr drive to Chattanooga seems like nothing... and its always well worth it... cool temps at night but you can climb shirtless during the day and lose that canadian glow we all have in the winter.
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yay_chris
Sep 10, 2004, 5:23 PM
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Hoppinbig,
Sure there is much better out there man... But come on... people honestly can't drive 3 hrs everytime they want to tear up a crag.
I just think that the bottom line is that Kelso is a fine crag, it's not a choss pile, nor is it moss infested.
All I can really say is that I've had just as much fun at Kelso and Nemo, as I've had at Lions Head, the Gunks, and Kentucky.
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hoppinbig
Sep 10, 2004, 5:31 PM
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Milton is a great outdoor gym... good for half a day of climbing (when the gf demands that you be back by 2 to hold hands). It's also great when you can bail out of work early and get in a bunch of climbs outside instead of the smelly gym. But all I'm saying is if you are out for the entire day broaden your horizens... I've gone to the Daks many many times just for the weekend.
Yay-chris you are right dude we're lucky to have outdoor climbing so close to home... some people drive 3+ hours for something worse than rattlesnake - so its all perspective.
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jumpingrock
Sep 14, 2004, 3:58 AM
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You know what. Even if you happen to be more accustomed to western climbing, if the options are climbing @ Milton or climbing in a gym the choice will always be climbing @ milton.
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