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Anchor on "Trauma"
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ikellen


Sep 11, 2004, 7:30 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
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Anchor on "Trauma"  (North_America: United_States: California: San_Diego_County: Mission_Gorge)
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To all MG climbers-

Although the anchors on "Trauma" are very bomber (two solid bolts with hangers in good condition), the hangers on it pose a problem when rappelling off the route as they are a very sharp edge to put a rope against. Today, after finishing the route, I left a standard oval carabiner that we rapped off of on one of the hangers. For those that come upon the anchor, please do not remove this. I know the biner is a bit old, but it is still plenty strong. Leave it for others wishing to rap down off of this route. If you do feel so unethical, maybe throw some quicklinks connected to rap rings on both hangers so that future parties can rap without worrying about the condition of their rope.

Also, today I witnessed two groups (what looked to be experienced climbers teaching groups) top-roping off of the existing rap rings. If you are reading this and are a victim of this act, PLEASE do not continue this habit. Throw your own draws on the bolts and top-rope off of those instead of the fixed hardware. Top-roping on the already existing rings wears them down and makes them a hazard when people want to rappell of them in the future. Use the fixed hardware for rappelling, and top-rope on your own gear. For those experienced climbers reading this, this should be common sense, but even though it is very common knowledge, alot of people still don't know this. Lets keep the gorge a safe place to climb.

Thanks


mntnman1973


Sep 11, 2004, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2003
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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Instead of rapping from the bolts at the top of Trauma at Mission Gorge, there is a rap anchor just to the right at the top of the 5.4 The Steps. This is the anchor that you should rap off of, it is safer.

Climb Safe


omenbringer


Sep 11, 2004, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Instead of rapping from the bolts at the top of Trauma at Mission Gorge, there is a rap anchor just to the right at the top of the 5.4 The Steps. This is the anchor that you should rap off of, it is safer.
This wouldn't happen to be the anchors at the top of "the someone is always climbing it" Ramp is it? Rather than cause even more congestion in the lunch rock area, perhaps the next time I visit the Gorge I'll do exactly this:
In reply to:
maybe throw some quicklinks connected to rap rings on both hangers so that future parties can rap without worrying about the condition of their rope.
Dont quote me on it though, I dont know how soon I'll be able to get out there!


asandh


Sep 12, 2004, 4:53 PM
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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:)


ikellen


Sep 12, 2004, 7:48 PM
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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Your reply brings some more light to the route. Could you provide beta for the walk off? Do you walk right towards beatiful/skyline arete and down the gully on the farside of orange walk?


climbingnurse


Sep 12, 2004, 8:06 PM
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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In reply to:
If you do feel so unethical, maybe throw some quicklinks connected to rap rings on both hangers so that future parties can rap without worrying about the condition of their rope.

Rap rings are NOT suitable for this use! Rap rings are intended for single use on alpine routes and in emergency situations. It is a far better idea to do what asandh suggested by using quicklinks and/or chains without rap rings.


caughtinside


Sep 12, 2004, 8:14 PM
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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Not true. Solid SS rap rings are available, and could be attached to the bolts with a quicklink.

But yeah, hollow aluminum rap rings are unacceptable for that application.


omenbringer


Sep 12, 2004, 9:35 PM
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I put the bolt anchor at the top of the Trauma several years ago as an attempt to spread the crowds away from The Ramp. These are very beefy 1/2 inch Powers/Rawl bolts. Both the bolts and hangers are in excellent condition (I just checked them out a few weeks ago).

However, this anchor is NOT a rap anchor and never was meant to be. Either use The Ramp's rap anchor or WALK OFF. Maybe at some point in the future if the crowds warrant, I'll make it a rap but not this week.

If anyone does decide to volunteer some quicklinks, the minimum standard is 2 quicklinks on each bolt. The minimum size for the quicklink attached to the hanger is 5/16 and the minimum size for the quicklink that the rope goes through is 3/8. Anything less will be removed.

Keep in mind that this is an ALL trad route that does have a crack behind the bolts for a trad anchor. Like I said, I put the bolts there to spread out the crowds.

TRAD climbers are supposed to be capable of walking off routes. I suppose the bolts COULD be removed. :wink:

Art

p.s. thanks for complaining about people TRing directly off the links. Most of that stuff came out of my wallet and I'd appreciate the consideration.
Thanks for the info about what size and how many quicklinks need to be up there. Perhaps if I get time, I'll go up there on Wednesday and place them.

I will say I think there needs to be a set of rap anchors up there, I've been stuck on top waiting for a group to stop climbing the ramp so I could get down. My only complaint about my favorite climb at the Gorge.


omenbringer


Sep 15, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Re: Anchor on "Trauma" [In reply to]
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I upgraded the anchors today on Trauma. Now there is a rap station on top of that climb. For those interested the upgrade consists of 3/8" stainless Steel quicklink and 10mm Stainless steel Rap ring on each bolt. Please don't top rope off the rings.


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