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"V??": The Rating Psychology
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spectral


May 16, 2002, 4:19 PM
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"V??": The Rating Psychology
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I believe that a large part of bouldering is the mental/psychological challenge of the problem. For instance, I know that if I'm aware of a problem's rating, it changes the way I try to climb it. I usually don't solve a problem until I forget the rating; I send many more problems when I don't know the rating to begin with, *especially* harder problems.

I also find that some V0/1's are very difficult, whereas some V3/4's seem easier. Obviously, there is some subjectivity to the rating system, but sometimes we turn relative measures into absolute barriers (e.g. the SAT, grades, etc).

How does a problem rating influence the way you climb? How do you use the rating as an indicator of difficulty? Have you ever been suprised to hear that a problem you did was higher/lower rated than you expected?


miagi


May 16, 2002, 7:38 PM
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I really don't like the way people grade routes sometimes. As you said it is very subjective. This is what I do:
For my (well i guess 1.5 hrs away is local) local crags, I get out and climb anything that looks good. When I go home after that day, I get online and look at the ratings. Sometimes if I see it's a really hard rating, it will give me that mental barrier. If I am traveling greater distances, I will bring a route planner so I dont waste my time on incredibly hard routes/problems.
I use the rating system to watch my progress. After my climbs from week to week, i'll see if im getting better. It's always good to have goals, and I dont think setting a goal on a grade is a bad thing. Just gives you something to set your mind to and achieve.


pushfurther


May 16, 2002, 7:50 PM
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"V??": The Rating Psychology [In reply to]
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my rating system has two ratings.

vdone
vnotdone


spectral


May 19, 2002, 10:49 PM
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"V??": The Rating Psychology [In reply to]
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pushfurther:

I like your rating system. I think I'll use it from now on.


minjin


May 21, 2002, 5:25 PM
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it's true that the rating of a problem can vary depending on so many factors, not the least of which is the psychological processes that occur during bouldering. when you reach a certain point, it doesn't matter how hard the moves are; you don't want to fall. thus, a V3 highball can seem like a V6. the moves are the same, it's just a bit more frightening in terms of consequences. besides, grading is just a baseline to determine whether or not it's worth losing the skin.


timhinck


May 21, 2002, 8:09 PM
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How does a problem rating influence the way you climb? How do you use the rating as an indicator of difficulty? Have you ever been suprised to hear that a problem you did was higher/lower rated than you expected?

Here are my answers to your questions:

1. I've been trying to not let the rating influence my climbing. Especially when it is an easy climb. I try to approach an easy climb with the same focus and concentration as when I approach harder climbs.

2. I do use the rating system as an indicator of difficulty. This allows me to track my progress in my training program.

3. Yes, I think all of us have been surprised at the rating of some problems. I do think that this is partially a regional problem. For example, there are some areas that are known to be largely sandbagged and other areas that are soft. Here in the southeast our rating system is very much like that at Hueco, so very normal. There aren't a whole lot of surprises as far as ratings are concerned. Now, out west there are lots of Sandbagged problems. When I climb out west I always climb a grade or so lower than back in the East.

tim


holygecko


May 23, 2002, 5:34 AM
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pushfurther i also like your rating system thanx for the system bro I am gonna start using it


floof


May 23, 2002, 11:59 PM
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Just came back from climbing at a new gym. Most of thier problems were either not rated or not completely labelled. Maybe this is why there were only three of us in the bouldering area.

So I just climbed. Followed my nose up, down, left and right. Some of the funnest gym bouldering I've ever done.


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