|
crowdedfeet
Sep 14, 2004, 7:00 PM
Post #1 of 5
(1898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2004
Posts: 15
|
I want to climb this route soon. How freaky is the 1st pitch? Is routefinding very difficult? Is the crux move that hard? Pro? Tell me what ya know.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Sep 14, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #2 of 5
(1898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
I haven't climbed it (wanted to, but never found a partner interested in doing it while I was back East) but you might find this topo picture useful. leedaclimber submitted it a while ago...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=13417
It's linked off of the Whitesides page in the routesdb. I know there are a bunch of people (the_alpine for example) who have done the route, so hopefully one of them can answer your other questions.
|
|
|
|
|
bumblie
Sep 15, 2004, 8:47 AM
Post #3 of 5
(1898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 7627
|
The first pitch is a 5.7 slab solo. If you want to wimp out and taint your flash, you can bypass it by climbing the gulley to the right.
The 5.10a crux is 1-2 moves that can easily be protected with a large cam.
The 5.11a crux can easily be aided through. The bolts are close enough together that you can clip each bolt while holding the lower draw.
In the picture above, the finish shown is different than the regular finish. The finish shown above is harder and consdered to be much nice.
The 5.3 150' traverse. on the normal finish does have gear placements.
Leave early. People frequently have difficulty finding the start.
If it's rained in the last few days, expect wet rock up high. With our current weather, I'd give it 4-5 days to dry out.
The wall gets sun all day, so try to climb it in cooler weather.
Use double ropes.
|
|
|
|
|
floridaputz
Sep 15, 2004, 9:27 AM
Post #4 of 5
(1898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2002
Posts: 136
|
This is a great route. The first pitch is a solo. But if you are a confident slab climber it's really not that bad. I never felt gripped on it. Like it says in the climbers guide, if it's less than 5.7 it's run out. Cruxes are well protected. The route wanders around a bit, but with a topo it's really pretty straight forward. The 5.10 (formerly 9+) pitch was protected with a BD 3.5 cam. then a few thin moves to a bolt. I personally had the most trouble with the 5.8 cresent pitch. It's exposed and a bit frightening to get started on. I climbed it in late Oct. The fall colors were on fire, the weather perfect. It was probably one of the most beautiful days I ever experienced climbing. It's a very satisfying route for a southern climber. that is for an average climber like me anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
agent0069
Sep 17, 2004, 9:00 AM
Post #5 of 5
(1898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2004
Posts: 10
|
A few things to add: The route faces east and loses sun by mid afternoon. Being that it's east facing also means that the weather comes in from the west and is on you pretty fast, if it's a sketchy forecast be prepared to climb fast. If you have double 60m ropes or a single 60m and a trail line and it starts pouring rain it's easy to bail w/out leaving gear. Do the "Original Route" i.e. the 5.0 traverse and the two 5.7 pitches above that- you'll be able to say you did the entire route and you actually get more climbing than the Traditions finish. Do the Traditions finish when you do Traditions which incidently is probably the next step up in difficulty from the OR and being that it parralels the OR for most of the climb is a good way to pass slow parties. If you climb on a sunny autumn weekend expect other climbers to be on the route. Routefinding is pretty simple- if at anytime it feels hard and you don't see a bolt you're off-route. Don't haul- have the second wear a small pack with water, shoes, etc. or just clip a nalgene and your shoes to your harness and go even lighter. The route has, over the years, gotten a rep as a hard and/or scary route due to the many epics from illprepared climbers but if you can climb 5.9 trad it's pretty casual and an enjoyable route. Good luck and post a trip report.
p.s. Don't even THINK about camping at the parking lot or sleeping there in your car, the rangers will write you a hefty fine.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
