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mtengaio


Sep 17, 2004, 9:20 PM
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Mad Rock rubber
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What the general consensus of Mad Rock shoe owners about the rubber Mad Rock uses? Like it? Hate it? How does it compare to 5.10's or La Sportiva's rubber?


daryl314


Sep 17, 2004, 9:40 PM
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i hate it. the rubber rolled off of small edges. i think stealth is much better.


caseyhyer


Sep 17, 2004, 9:41 PM
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hate it!!!!


gymstud001


Sep 17, 2004, 9:43 PM
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Madrock shoes are awesome! Mine held up good. I hate la sportivas, don't get them, but 5.10's are amazing.


boz84


Sep 17, 2004, 9:44 PM
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Most would agree that its sticky as anythign else, but at the same time, most would agree that its softer, and will wear away faster than most.

At their price, this isnt a good argument, because for the price of comparable shoes, you can buy 2 pairs of madrocks and spend the same as 1 pair of a sportiva or 5.10 shoe.

Ive used their flash model, which is a popular model by them, and the argument that it roll off of edges isunfounded.

Get a better fitting model, or size, and work on footwork, or get a stiffer model.


daryl314


Sep 17, 2004, 9:48 PM
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In reply to:
Most would agree that its sticky as anythign else, but at the same time, most would agree that its softer, and will wear away faster than most.

At their price, this isnt a good argument, because for the price of comparable shoes, you can buy 2 pairs of madrocks and spend the same as 1 pair of a sportiva or 5.10 shoe.

Ive used their flash model, which is a popular model by them, and the argument that it roll off of edges isunfounded.

Get a better fitting model, or size, and work on footwork, or get a stiffer model.

unfounded? i've heard other people complaining about the same thing. my hooker zips don't edge worth beans. i don't believe that the flash has the dual density rubber thing going. that could be why they edge better.


mtengaio


Sep 17, 2004, 10:03 PM
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The reason I posted this question is because I noticed that Yosemite Bum only uses the Trax rubber that Mad Rock uses. I need to get a pair of Stingers resoled but the Boreal rubber stinks so I'm going to have whoever put Stealth on there instead. The price for the resole using Trax is good but if the rubber sucks then forget it, I'll go withthe tried and true Stealth that's on my Southwests!


fitzontherocks


Sep 17, 2004, 10:03 PM
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Love 'em. Sticky as monkey boogers. Mine wore fairly well... over a year of weekend climbing before they needed resoling ($89 Hooker zips). I bought a pair of $120 Sportiva Katanas and prefer them vastly for edging, but on faces they'll peel off where I KNOW my Hookers would stick like crazy. As a result, I have less confidence in the Katanas on real frictiony faces. So choose your battles.


crimpandgo


Sep 17, 2004, 10:05 PM
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Not fair questions. Anytime you ask a question like this you will get equal number of "like it" and equal number of "hate it". The question is based on subjective parameters and thus the answer depends on the person involved.


Now, for my subjective answer :oops:

I have the new Mad Rock Frenzy lace-ups and I love them. They are cheap and I feel the rubber sticks great. I would prefer to wear them over my Boreal's and La sportivas because of the rubber. But I am comparing them to "resoled" rubber and not to original rubber. One thing that does seem to be common with Mad Rock is that people say the rubber wears quickly. You are gonna have to make your own decision.


boz84


Sep 17, 2004, 10:10 PM
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In reply to:
One thing that does seem to be common with Mad Rock is that people say the rubber wears quickly. You are gonna have to make your own decision.

It does wear quickly, and thats a reflection of it being a softer rubber.

No way to get around it.
Are their better shoes? Ya probably.

Are they very good shoes? No doubt.


naitch


Sep 17, 2004, 10:11 PM
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I have a theory about why some people think MR rubber is great and other think it sucks. Both my son and I have MR shoes (me - flash, him-zip). We are both fairly light (125 lbs). My theory, which could be way off base is, that because the rubber is a bit softer/sticker than others, those that are lighter in weight feel that it's very positive and don't roll off edges etc. My son feels it helped him make the grade on a thin 5.12 face climb that he kept coming off of before. He also had 5.10s which he doesn't like as well. I have both and that is also my opion. Could it be that heavier climbers with the addtional lbs/sq. in on the rubber causes it to roll/slide/break loose whereas some of the rubbers that are just slightly harder C4, sportiva etc. hold well under the addtional weight. Just a theory...


daryl314


Sep 17, 2004, 10:14 PM
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In reply to:
I have a theory about why some people think MR rubber is great and other think it sucks. Both my son and I have MR shoes (me - flash, him-zip). We are both fairly light (125 lbs). My theory, which could be way off base is, that because the rubber is a bit softer/sticker than others, those that are lighter in weight feel that it's very positive and don't roll off edges etc. My son feels it helped him make the grade on a thin 5.12 face climb that he kept coming off of before. He also had 5.10s which he doesn't like as well. I have both and that is also my opion. Could it be that heavier climbers with the addtional lbs/sq. in on the rubber causes it to roll/slide/break loose whereas some of the rubbers that are just slightly harder C4, sportiva etc. hold well under the addtional weight. Just a theory...

you could be on to something. i think madrock rubber sucks, and that stealth is much better rubber. but my weight bounces between 180 and 200 lbs. anyone else care to chime in with how much you weigh and what you think of madrock rubber?


crimpandgo


Sep 17, 2004, 10:20 PM
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I have used stealth as well. I just find that some climbs require the softer rubber. Weight probably affects it, but I think rock type and temperatures are probably bigger factors. for example, I dont like the mad rocks in the summer as much (you can probably guess why).

I also think fit has something to do with it. I have had a tougher time getting the MRs to fit my feet. Had to buy a couple different pair til I got it right (was buying them too small). I did not like the performance of the shoe until I got the fit dialed in :D

Course this is also why I ditched my mythos. they stretched so much they were useless, and at $137 a pop, I didn't feel it was worth it. I can buy two sets of MRs for that price


Partner gamehendge


Sep 17, 2004, 10:26 PM
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I weigh about 130 and I have a pair of Mugens. Really sticky, wearing out fast, and starting to have holes on the synthetic hides. Great when they were new. I climb/boulder about 3x a week. I do love them for the price and friction, but I'm just as happy w/ my new Evolve Kaos. Not as sticky but holds better edges. I am however looking to find more aggresive shoes for harder routes, really overhanging stuff and bouldering. I'm looking @ the MR Locos or 5.10 v10's.


dlintz


Sep 17, 2004, 10:51 PM
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In reply to:
The reason I posted this question is because I noticed that Yosemite Bum only uses the Trax rubber that Mad Rock uses. I need to get a pair of Stingers resoled but the Boreal rubber stinks so I'm going to have whoever put Stealth on there instead. The price for the resole using Trax is good but if the rubber sucks then forget it, I'll go withthe tried and true Stealth that's on my Southwests!

I'm a little confused. Your original question asked about Mad Rock's rubber yet your explanation post above talks about Yosemite Bum/Evolve's proprietary Trax rubber. If you want to know about the Trax here's my 2 cents:

Good stuff. Earlier this year they changed their formula, it is certainly stickier than the earlier version and very comparable to Stealth. My Kaoses came with the orignal formula and needed a resole after 5 months. My resole with the newer formula starting showing a lot of wear soon after but have actually lasted longer than the original. Of course this could be due to a lot of different factors but I've been climbing just as much and in the same conditions. The newer version smears much better than before yet retains great edging capabilities. Hope this helps.

d.


saskclimber


Sep 17, 2004, 10:59 PM
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Just another instance of where my suggestions for a "rubber" category in the gear guide would come in handy...any thoughts?..


blather


Sep 17, 2004, 11:14 PM
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I love it. Sticky as all get-up, although Yosemite granite chews right through it. One nice touch was my last pair of madrock shoes (Locos) came with an additional set of rubber.


crimpandgo


Sep 17, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Quote:

I love it. Sticky as all get-up, although Yosemite granite chews right through it. One nice touch was my last pair of madrock shoes (Locos) came with an additional set of rubber.

Question:

Do you resole them yourself? or take the to someone to get them resoled?


curt


Sep 17, 2004, 11:19 PM
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I think Mad Rock rubber is great. I have had three pairs of the Phoenix shoes since they first came out in late 2002. I don't notice the rubber wearing out too much faster than stealth either, a little faster maybe, but not too much.

Most people who I know that really dislike Mad Rock rubber have MR shoes with the "dual-density" soles, which are (IMO) a bit of a gimmick anyway. If you get the Phoenix, Flash, Frenzy or other MR shoes with "normal" soles, I doubt you will think the rubber is bad.

Curt


thegreytradster


Sep 17, 2004, 11:55 PM
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Any body know what the pricing and avalability on the single density resole kits is? Is the rubber avalble in sheet form?

Stealth has gone to a die cut fru fru blister packed kit that has doubled the price of a resole. With the sheets of rubber you could get four half soles out of one kit. I'm lookin for a change!
Since I do 'em myself softer/slightly shorter life isn't an issue.


gunkiemike


Sep 18, 2004, 1:15 AM
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In reply to:
Any body know what the pricing and avalability on the single density resole kits is? Is the rubber avalble in sheet form?

Stealth has gone to a die cut fru fru blister packed kit that has doubled the price of a resole. With the sheets of rubber you could get four half soles out of one kit. I'm lookin for a change!
Since I do 'em myself softer/slightly shorter life isn't an issue.

Our local shop has the MR resole kit (with pre-cut half soles) for $15.95. Yes that's more expensive than the old $20 5.10 sheet kit which easily did 4 half soles. But the MR kit is a reasonable thickness (I'd guess 4.5 mm) whereas the only 5.10 kits I've seen were either dot tread or 6mm rubber.


fallenfreesoloist


Sep 18, 2004, 2:39 AM
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people cry and moan about the life lenght of mad rock rubber but th bottom line is, its very sticky, and if thats wat ur looking for theyre great. they dont last as long as other brands-but if u buy a pair hoping they will last a year knowing full well that they wear out faster than other brands, your not too smart. everything has its place. i love them and theyve lasted quite a while for me and i love their smearing and edging. ive used 5.10, mammut, boreal, scarpa, and montrails, and i love mad rocks just as much as any other. theyre also quite comfy(the hooker lace ups). good luck shoe shoppin. safe travels


tnchief


Sep 18, 2004, 3:49 AM
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I had been a die-hard Stealth fan for years, preferring it strongly over Boreal, La Sportiva, and Scarpa rubbers, all of varying models. After climbing in 5.10 Spires, VXs, and Anasazis (lace & slipper), I was convinced I would die wearing Stealth rubber. However, I tried out a pair of MR Flash (lace) and was completely sold. Yes, the rubber is softer, but it is also stickier (particularly when clean). I weigh 175 lbs and don't have trouble with rolling edges (I will admit I climb mostly overhanging southern sandstone). I did notice that the MRs with the dual thickness soles were even softer, so would logically roll more easily.


overlord


Sep 18, 2004, 11:00 AM
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i like it, but my fav is c4.

cant beat the anasazis.


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