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History of mountaineering in Czarist/Soviet Russia?
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cantdog


Sep 21, 2004, 12:49 PM
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History of mountaineering in Czarist/Soviet Russia?
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I'm doing my culminating research project for college on the development of mountaineering and climbing in Czarist and Soviet Russia, and contrasting that with the development of the sport in the United States. Basically how having a communist rule effected the sport, either through govt funded trips or what not.

Can anyone recommend any books on the history of mountaineering, particularly pertaining to eastern european climbers? Or memoirs of eastern european climbers?

Thanks!


napoleon_in_rags


Dec 1, 2004, 8:18 PM
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Re: History of mountaineering in Czarist/Soviet Russia? [In reply to]
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Anatoliy Boureev must have climbed under the hammer and sickle - He'd be a good start.


mheyman


Dec 1, 2004, 9:41 PM
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Re: History of mountaineering in Czarist/Soviet Russia? [In reply to]
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Boukreev it has a K in it. I don't remeber that wrote anything about the Russian organization in Climb, nor do I know that he wrote anything else. Did he? Climb was his response to Krakaur's (sp) "Into Thin Air"

Off hand I can add

"Degrees of Difficulty"; Vladimir Shatayev, The Mountaineers

"Hero of the Soviet Union"; Alpinist Issue #4 Pavel Shabalin

Both well worth reading if you appreciate climbing history.


kostik


Apr 3, 2006, 9:51 AM
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A little late for your project, perhaps, but I would like to mention the community of 'stolbists' - solo climbers and boulderers who climb at Stolby, a reserve near Krasnoyarsk, Siberia.

http://www.stolby.ru/eng/

First ascent there was documented in 1851. First female ascent in 1895. Around 1910 stolbists united into several communities, called 'companies'. Many companies had their log houses (the izbas) near or on the rocks.

Here's a company called 'Berkuts' in 1914. Notice man:woman ratio almost 50:50.

http://www.stolby.ru/...1/big/berkuty001.jpg

As of now, there are thousands of people who call themselves Stolbists and climb in the Stolby area. During 150 years of their existence, stolbists have developed their own rock climbing terminology, folklore, lots of songs, anecdotes, etc.

Here's a slide show of one stolbist company's outfits:

http://www.stolby.ru/...01_Stolby_odejda.jpg

Click on the arrow to see the next pic. Note the rubber footwear.

Photo and video galleries:

http://www.stolby.ru/Mat/Babiy/index.asp
http://www.stolby.ru/Mat/video.asp
http://www.stolby.ru/Mat/photo.asp

Sorry, they are all in Russian. Just click on the links to view.


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