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Your favorite N.American mountaineering route
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tomclimbs


Sep 23, 2004, 7:16 PM
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Your favorite N.American mountaineering route
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Hello,

After a trip to Nepal (ama Dablam- anyone want to invite me?) fell through I am left wondering what is on the schedule for this spring/summer. I know there are many mountaineering routes in the US and Canada and I was just wondering what your favorites are. So that they may become my favorites and give me something to do next summer. The two I have in mind are the Cassin and the N. Face of Robson. I am looking for stuff that will take a couple of days to complete. Sort of a semi -cheap expedition style fun thing. Anyone have any good ideas for some good stuff. I ain't no mixed monster but am looking to have a good time, and keep some dukets for beer as well.

thanks in advance.



tom


punk


Sep 23, 2004, 8:14 PM
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not so glorified but will keep you busy and will test your hardman will


slavetogravity


Sep 23, 2004, 8:18 PM
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The Bugaboos, makes for a good cheap expedition like trip. Check out my recent photos I submmited on the place. There are no shortage of climbs there that could take you a couple days to do if that's what your looking for. Anything on west face of Howser Tower comes to mind.


lambone


Sep 23, 2004, 9:19 PM
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The North Ridge of Mt Stuart, Wa....is probly the best alpine rock climb I have ever done. Have ever done 4 times at least....it's that good. The full ridge is full value.


tomclimbs


Sep 23, 2004, 9:38 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. We went to Bugs last summer , killer stuff for sure! I was kinda wondering about mountaineering routes, you know - the ones will snow and ice and stuff..

thanks again!!


nebraska


Sep 24, 2004, 12:21 AM
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The notch coloiur and mountaineers routes on Long's peak in CO can be a 1 day in summer but multi day in winter or the shoulder season. Definitely the real deal depending on conditions and an absolutely stunning glacial cirque.

Traversing the presidential range in New Hampshire while not technically challenging vertically can also be a great mountaineering experience in the winter.

N side of mount hood offers several 1 to 3 day kind of trips that are good, as are any of the routes on ranier. Have fun picking!

I maybe looking for a late Oct partner for some california mountaineering 3-5 days at a time. Let me know if you want more details!


kid


Sep 24, 2004, 12:57 AM
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Mount Assiniboine North Face Chinard route with a fully self supported hike in and out should hold you for a few days. You could also bag Lunett and if you were completely commited there is always the east face for a scare. The Hind hut is worth the trip in itself. Bring the crampons and axes for early and late season.


rockprodigy


Sep 24, 2004, 7:34 PM
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The Cassin is probably my favorite, but I wouldn't classify it as anything close to a "fun" and "cheap" climb. It was 3 weeks of very hard work, and several thousand dollars in gear, transportation and food...but then if you've been to Nepal, you probably don't need too much gear. Something that might be more "fun" would be the NW ridge of Hunter or, the Lowe-Kennedy on Hunter, or something like that.

Oh yeah, the N Face of Robson isn't really in the same league as the Cassin. You're comparing a weekend trip with a full-on multi week expedition.


dr.ed
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Sep 24, 2004, 8:14 PM
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There is large range of climbing between the Cassin and Robson... but you can dial in the difficulty and expedition time length going to the Columbia Ice Fields and attempting any number of climbs in that compact area. These range from Mt. Columbia, the Twins, etc. etc., many mega-classics in mountaineering, but managable logistics. Part of an Ice Fields trip could be driving up and doing Robson... which probably is a few day trip if you haven't been there before.


micronut


Sep 25, 2004, 1:51 AM
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WADDINGTON!! Fly in from Tatla Lake


mr_dirt


Sep 25, 2004, 4:20 AM
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This is a bit off center, but Sunlight Peak (down here in the 'Juans) via the west ridge is way cool in the winter. It may not be "expidition" style but it will take you two hard days to shoe in with a sled just to reach the base. More fun than a rain storm on Denali!


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