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dynamicpanda
Sep 24, 2004, 5:40 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2003
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Hi, im going to Ship Rock, NC this Sunday to do some trad climbing. I have wanted to climb Linn Cove Lullaby for a good while now. I was wondering how well protected/hard this route is. I dont want to start up something stupid. Thanks!
-Jamie
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cjstudent
Sep 24, 2004, 7:12 AM
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Jamie, have you done any other trad leads at Ship? At this level?
Linn Cove is a 5.10a with the crux being on the 2nd pitch.
I consider it very well protected. I know basically exactly what gear *I* place on it, but if you have a set of nuts and some cams u should be fine. It can get alittle rope draggy if you place too much gear in certain places because as you notice, the first pitch goes up, then left, then out right. P1 is totally trad, the belay has two (kinda rusty) bolts. P2 has a bolt at the crux then after that there are plenty of places for gear.
KB Capers is also a route of equal quality. No bolts on KB though, all trad (yay!)
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bumblie
Sep 24, 2004, 7:31 AM
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An alternate start is following the Airlie Gardens start. Proceed with care. It's 5.8 R. The nice thing about this start (besides the fun climbing) is you avoid a lot of rope drag. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your perspective), it's scary - but fairly easy to downclimb.
If you do the standard 1st pitch, take loooong runners or climb it on double ropes.
A standard rack should be fine. You'll want a large friend (#3) for an awkward section just below the 1st belay.
Have fun. It's a great route, w/ a one move crux. It's a fine feather in your cap, if you're just starting to lead 5.10 trad.
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dynamicpanda
Sep 24, 2004, 7:12 PM
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"Jamie, have you done any other trad leads at Ship? At this level?"
I have done 5.10 trad leads out in Yosemite and have lead easier stuff at Ship Rock. I understand that NC style trad is probably alot more scary, but the route looks so cool!
Thanks for all of the info.
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cjstudent
Sep 24, 2004, 9:41 PM
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And it is cool!
Try KB Capers too if u like Linn Cove.
Hit me up sometime, I live in boone. (or have we already talked?)
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the_alpine
Sep 24, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2003
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Lyn Cove Lullaby takes bomber gear, dont worry. Get on the Broach while you're there too! They say its 5.11 but its honestly a jug haul out a roof. Have fun!
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dynamicpanda
Sep 26, 2004, 5:30 PM
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In reply to: Lyn Cove Lullaby takes bomber gear, dont worry. Get on the Broach while you're there too! They say its 5.11 but its honestly a jug haul out a roof. Have fun!
I dunno about the Broach...
I think im gonna go for Linn Cove next weekend. Did Boardwalk, Fire Point, and Hindu Kush today. Ship Rock is an incredible cliff.
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