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Double rope lowering
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beyond_gravity


May 20, 2002, 3:50 PM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2002
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Double rope lowering
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So I was climbing this route that was 43m long. I topped out and got lowered down to find myself 13m from the ground and no more rope left. I ended up clipping into a bolt and hanging there as my belayer tied another rope one and moved his ATC over the knot. Is there a better was of doing this?

Jeremy.


sexton


May 20, 2002, 5:28 PM
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Knowing how long the route is before heading up, and trailing a 2nd rap line? Sorry, that was too easy.

Standard way is to pre rig it by tieing the ropes together and clipping an ATC (or whatever) onto each side of the knot. Belayer gets to knot, clips other device in, then unclips 1st one. If it's not pre-rigged, it gets cumbersome tieing the guy off (meunter-mule) and setting the 2nd device.

You should have known on the way up when the belayer fed rope past the 1/2 point. Then you clip into the anchors and let him rig the lower, or better yet, haul up a 2nd rope.

Lots of accidents have happened by lowering someone off the end when the rope came up short. Hope the belayer was tied in to the other end.


beyond_gravity


May 20, 2002, 6:24 PM
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I mean, how are you going to TR a route over 30m?? And I had a stopper knot in the end of the rope, because i'm allways scared of getting lowered off the end!

Rap On,
Jeremy


dustinap
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May 20, 2002, 6:40 PM
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tie two ropes together with the knot being on the side of the anchor the belayer will be pulling. Having two grigris is great in this situation so you can pass the knot.


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