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krillen


Aug 23, 2001, 12:00 PM
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FALLING!!!!
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Being mostly a trad, sport, TR climber, I'm not very familiar with Bouldering. Sure I've played add-on and done the problems in the gym, but outdoors is a whole different bag baby.

So on that note: Since the fall factor is so much different than roped climbing, How do you control a fall while bouldering?

Do you break fall? Relax? tense up?


broganadams
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Aug 23, 2001, 12:09 PM
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I break the fall if I can't land on my feet. Those big cash padz are amazing I have landed flat on my back and it doesn't hurt. If you are going to boulder and don't want to twist an ankle or get huge bruises buy a pad.


compclimber


Aug 23, 2001, 12:26 PM
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 Think of it as a game of darts, you want to hit the center of the pad. The bigger the pad the easier it is to hit. Have you looked at a Cordless Evil Pad those thing are huge and the extra 2 inches of foam is really nice when you dont bottom out (impact the crash pad with anough force that you can feel the ground) on a highball.


Sometimes a pad is worse, like if the landing are is a sloping slab the pad will just slide down the slab with you on it.


climberchk


Aug 23, 2001, 12:53 PM
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If you’re seriously considering going into bouldering, a crash pad is a must. When you’re shopping for one, I suggest buying one with high-density foam inside. They can get a little pricey, but it’s worth every penny. If you want to check one out, I should suggest going to asanapackworks.com Their “Vertigo Flash Pad” folds out to 6 feet long, perfect for high balls.(They have custom coloring too!)


whateverjrs


Aug 23, 2001, 2:02 PM
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buy a crash pad or have a spotter


krillen


Aug 23, 2001, 2:25 PM
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But Spotters and Crash mats aside, the fall itself, how do you deal with it?


wandt


Aug 23, 2001, 6:35 PM
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I, at least, try to sense when I'm falling and then let my legs go so I can try to land on them. I use my arms and hands on the rock to kind of quickly position my body upright and if possible facing away from the rock. When I hit the ground I let my legs pretty much crumple under my weight and try to roll forward and right. (Why, I don't know. It's just my personal preference.) Though if I land flat on my back I slam both arms down on the ground/mat simultaneously (and as close to when my back hits as possible). A friend of mine in Judo uses that technique to break his falls there, and it seems to work. Just don't slam too hard.

Of course, considering that I tore a mexx of ligaments in my ankle from falling bouldering, and am currently nursing a badly fractured wrist because of a basketball fall (from swinging out at rim-level; not just running and tripping or something.) I may not be the person to give the best advice.


kagunkie


Aug 23, 2001, 8:04 PM
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That sounds like good advise to me. This year Im coming back after two years off from climbing. Iv bouldered in the past but never or rarely would fall wich meant limiting dificulty to about 5.10 where I felt secure and could downclimb or slime through. Now I see things are changing with all these pads and people refining techniques, the game is evolving. I may just go and get one of those pads and do a little jumping myself. Keep that advise coming, theres always someone who can use it!


marcsv


Aug 23, 2001, 8:05 PM
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tuck into a ball and try to kiss my ass goodbye? honestly i never really think about the fall. i always think that i can send this project. if i fall then tough luck right, i try to land on my feet and roll away.


kagunkie


Aug 23, 2001, 10:35 PM
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I could have done without the kiss my ass goodbye thing. I didnt hear anyone say anything about tucking into a ball either. What are you trying to say exactly? It sounds like it may be sarcasm to me. Please accept my appologies if Im wrong. Sarcasm doesnt help anyone and theres no need for it.


marcsv


Aug 23, 2001, 11:52 PM
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see kagunkie, i hope i haven't offended you.
i try to find something comical about everything. but i usually keep it to myself knowing that no one would understand it. i'm not proud of it, but i'm not ashamed of it. its how i get through life without hating it. i hope you understand.

c'mon guys.. ..play nice..

[ This Message was edited by: congo on 2001-08-27 19:28 ]


wandt


Aug 24, 2001, 2:24 AM
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AAAAAHHH!!!!! Unless you would like to literally ram your femurs through your eyesockets, do not curl into a ball. You see, your spine (and subsequently your torso) are not one rigid mass, so when you hit the ground, there's some give, and your shoulders and head will keep moving down a bit more than the rest of you if you land on your feet, bum, or any other somewhat right-way-up position. Your leg bones, however do not bend quite so well, so if you land with your face aligned with your knees, you will get essentially a hard, two fisted punch to the upper cheekbones from extremely rigid fists, with all the momentum of your fall, and most of your own weight behind it. OUCH. Try to keep your knees a bit more spread out.

This bit of wisdom DOES work, as I have repeatedly "tested" it. Not quite voluntarily, but tested nonetheless.


kagunkie


Aug 24, 2001, 7:22 AM
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No offense taken Mark!! I just want to see one honest response get another. Nothing gets more respect in my book than someone who gives honestly from themselves and tries their best to help others wether its on a message board or out in everyday life. People who are honest and helpfull are the ones we should praise!! I appreciate your response.
Keep climbing its a great way of life!!!


krillen


Aug 24, 2001, 7:58 AM
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So the general concensus I'm starting to see is "do the best you can" which I pretty much expected, and breakfall/use your momentum (roll out) when you can. Fair enough.

Oh and if you were attmpting to kiss you ass goobye, woudln't your head be BETWEEN you leg and not above tthem for a kneee to the face [grin].

Thanks guys


kagunkie


Aug 24, 2001, 8:08 AM
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Please explain "break fall" is that a known/commonly used description or is it your own description?


talons05


Aug 26, 2001, 12:10 PM
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I, too, would like "break fall" explained. I've never heard that term. Also, from my experience what works best on falling from any boulder problem:
1. Use a crash pad AND, if possible, a spotter. The spotter can make sure you don't hit your head, the rest is up to you.
2. DO NOT fully tense up your muscles. If you do, you increase the risk of muscle tears.
3. DO NOT fully relax either. If you do, you will simply crumple and probably disjoint a knee.
4. Relax, but be ready to support your weight when you hit. Keep your knees slightly bent, let them bend more when you hit, this will absorb some of that energy.
5. DO NOT try to face away from the rock. Someone suggested this before, and I disagree. This is invitation to get caught or scrape your back, or bang your noggin. Face the rock to anticipate and avoid further problems -- the air behind you won't hurt, I promise.
6. Breathe. Some people hold their breath. You don't want to pop a lung on impact! Ideally, you want to be near the top of a breath when you hit, that is, almost ready to exhale, then, blow out your air when you hit. Tense your ab muscles upon landing so that you don't get your wind knocked out.

That's all I have, questions?


krillen


Aug 26, 2001, 7:15 PM
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Breakfalls are a technique commonly used in Martial Arts. It's where you use your momentum to roll out when you hit the ground or somethgin else like this. The principle is to dissipate the falling force in a different direction and take away from the impact force on your body.


marcsv


Aug 26, 2001, 7:41 PM
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technically breakfall (from experience) is incorporated in judo and aikido. the term they use is ukemi (or what judokas lovingly calls the art of falling) the prnciple goes like this, in an event of a fall, one must disperse the force by increasing the area (impact area if you will). simply put the smaller the area, he greater the force (or impact). practitioners of judo and aikido control the momentum by rolling and stopping the roll by slamming the tatami mats (to increase the area of impact).

hope it made sense its been a while since i handled a judo class.


metoliusmunchkin


Aug 27, 2001, 12:54 PM
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I have a sixteen foot artificial climbing wall in my back yard. I have falled off of that without a rope so many times that I don't even worry about falling off of it anymore. And it's for this reason that I no longer use ropes on it anymore, because I am so used to falling off of it that I"m not worried to do it. You see, I dont have enough time or money for a crash pad, so, I just took an old fouton matress and covered it with a tarp. I've falled straight on my face with that thing, and, as you have guessed, it doesn't hurt. So, what I say is, if you're gonna fall, you're gonna fall, there's no stopping that, so just FALL. And if you have a decent pad to land on, you'll be all set. (Ofcourse this does not apply to any highball boulder problems).
L8erz


congo


Aug 27, 2001, 7:34 PM
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if you want to learn more about breaking a boulder fall, read up on hitting the ground from a skydive, they teach you how to disperse your vertical energy into horizontal energy..
..you basically fall on a slight angle and roll on the ground.. ..it saves alot of broken bones..


jeffe


Aug 28, 2001, 10:41 PM
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The only problem with rolling after the fall is the other rocks on the ground. I got six stitches from rolling after one foot missed my crash pad. When you pop while working a hard problem, you don't get much time to think. You have to plan ahead, figure out the landing zones for the different moves on the problem and do your best. Remember your not always going to fall straight down.


5.13leadsalot
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Sep 6, 2001, 9:23 PM
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How do you disperse your vertical energy it to horizantal energy????


c_plante


Sep 24, 2001, 11:45 PM
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I just don't fall. You know when you're about too, well most of the time. And when you get that feeling that you're going to drop, get that spotter under you as fast as possible, don't take any risks outside of what you can handle. When I spot, and when others spot me, we usually do a variety of things, like grabbing wobbly feet, or pushing up their butts (It sounds bad, but you appreciate it, considering the alternatives) I don't climb with a crash pad since I can't afford it. So a good spotter is not only the next best thing, but probably a better piece of equipment in the long run.


dean585


Oct 10, 2001, 1:49 PM
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I wish I could "just not fall" some boulder problems leave me pretty high off of the ground, and even with a crash pad I still get scared at times. I wish I could get over this because it limits how i push myslef with more difficult problems. Does this happen to anyonme else on here or is it just me. And when I fall it hurts at times so i wish i could be like beer and not use a pad but im certain id be typing from my hospital room next time i visited the forums. : )


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