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wolverine


Oct 1, 2004, 4:38 PM
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new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook
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Matt Wilder's new Hueco bouldering guidebook is out mid November. It's in color! There's a sneak preview of the East Spur Maze here: www.wolverinepublishing.com


anothertucsonclimber


Oct 21, 2004, 10:26 AM
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Re: new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook [In reply to]
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was trying to pre-order the guide on the wolverine website and kept getting an error. Anyone else had this problem?


andy_reagan


Oct 21, 2004, 4:11 PM
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Re: new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook [In reply to]
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what was wrong with sherman's guide?


anothertucsonclimber


Oct 27, 2004, 10:41 AM
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Nothing was wrong with Sherman's guide...!


capttrad


Nov 10, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Re: new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook [In reply to]
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A new guide for a park which is mostly closed, that's cool


anothertucsonclimber


Nov 11, 2004, 1:50 PM
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You're such a dumbass.....! Ever been to Hueco? It's real easy to get to the other areas of the park. Just sign up for a "guide". I'm hopeful that the park will be opened to climbers again one day, now that people are respecting it more!!!!!


capttrad


Nov 11, 2004, 2:37 PM
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Re: new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook [In reply to]
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I think I've been there a few times I've only lived here since 1974........I just have a problem "gettin my mojo" hanging out with a guard.......I'm sorry if I've offended the great hueco gods, but I'm sure their not to happy about the situation either. It took closeing 3/4 of the park down for people to respect it more, that seems odd to me.

Climb On.


moonshine505


Nov 11, 2004, 2:46 PM
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Ummm, what was wrong with shermans was that it was OLD, outdated, and lacked whole areas and hundreds of problems that are in the new guide. These things happen as an area develops, it's not a slam on Verm's book.

Also, (I'm amazed people still feel this way) anyone who thinks Hueco is "mostly closed" hasn't been there in a while or is too nostalgic for the "good old days". I can think of only a few areas that are actually closed (45 degree wall, round room, etc), and they by no means account for "most" of Hueco. You can still climb on over 1700 problems, that's a lot of freaking problems.

My two cents, even if you've got the old guide, do yourself a favor, get the new guide and see for yourself how much more hueco has to offer.


socalbolter


Nov 20, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Re: new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook [In reply to]
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Got my copy in the mail today.

For a while I was on the "Do we really need another guide to Hueco?" bandwagon, but after seeing this guide I'm glad Matt made the effort to produce what is the finest guide I've yet seen.

Full of color action and boulder photos, climber commentary and info on all of the newest regulations and problems, this guide is a must if you plan to visit that little pile of boulders outside of El Paso.


estherator


Nov 22, 2004, 7:16 PM
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There are only 6 boulders or so that are closed due to rock art, erosion, or the burial of human remains.(45 Degree, 5 Bimbos, Cave Kiva, Not without my Daughter...) And over 1000 problems, not to mention routes, and new areas are being developed all the time. (BTW, the round room is open, one of the other guides took the Dallas kids team there yesterday) That said, Matt did a beautiful job with the new book; we're all psyched to have them here at the Rock Ranch. It's clear, concise, and packed with beta on working around the public use plan. (which wasn't even in effect when Sherman's book came out) Anyone who says this park is 3/4 closed is talking out his/her a$$. I know-I live here.


capttrad


Nov 25, 2004, 4:36 PM
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I, fart, live here too. If you want to go, fart, without a guard it's, fart, 3/4 closed. And if roofs make you wet you need to come to Pena.


estherator


Nov 26, 2004, 3:38 PM
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Well, you fart quite a lot, capttrad. Mighty nice of you to keep your distance.

Ant the rest of you on this forum, kindly disregard the captain's gas. Verbal and actual. Have a nice day :lol:


anothertucsonclimber


Nov 30, 2004, 1:48 PM
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I think Matt should have put a FEW MORE pictues of himself in there!!!!


jcinco


Dec 1, 2004, 9:52 AM
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In reply to:
Anyone who says this park is 3/4 closed is talking out his/her a$$.

But anyone who claims that those 3/4 of the park are open is also talking out his/her a$$.

Yeah, the guiding system works if you want to go get a sampling of the rest of the park, but you will find it nearly impossible to pick up any projects outside of north mountain. Maybe if you either know one of the guides pretty well or, ahem, work at the rock ranch, you can get around this. But for the average visitor, it is very very difficult to visit specific areas often.

In reply to:
Ummm, what was wrong with shermans was that it was OLD, outdated, and lacked whole areas and hundreds of problems that are in the new guide. These things happen as an area develops, it's not a slam on Verm's book.

I checked out the guide last night and it is quite impressive. This guide, along with Bloom's new Indian Creek guide, are truly the standards for which all future guidebooks to North America's classic world-class destinations should try to achieve.

However, the Sherman guide is still the best guidebook to Hueco Tanks, hands down. It is outdated in the sense that it doesn't have info on the permit/orientation/guiding system, but most of that info is already out there. It has 98% of the problems that most visitors will be interested in, and topos for the most popular new area are available on drtopo.com for free. In addition, it has probably the best introductory section ever written for a guidebook. IMHO, the Sherman guide is the best guidebook ever written... period.


estherator


Dec 1, 2004, 10:18 AM
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[quote="jcinco"]
In reply to:
But anyone who claims that those 3/4 of the park are open is also talking out his/her a$$.

Yeah, the guiding system works if you want to go get a sampling of the rest of the park, but you will find it nearly impossible to pick up any projects outside of north mountain. Maybe if you either know one of the guides pretty well or, ahem, work at the rock ranch, you can get around this. But for the average visitor, it is very very difficult to visit specific areas often.

The guiding system works well enough for anyone who is willing to place a phone call or two. There are tours to East mtn and East spur pretty much daily. Not one already sheduled? Wanna go to West? Call the ranch and request a tour. We have at 10 guides running around here at any given time during season. Plenty of people projecting. Kinda hard to do from Co, I suppose. But it's kind of hard to project Noth mtn from there, too. If you are down here long enough to project anything, the only excuses for not being able to work a problem are lack of info and laziness. Let me eliminate the former.
Park HQ: 915-857-1135
Rock Ranch: 915-855-0142
Now there's only one. Quicherbichin. Or climb elsewhere. 8^)


t-dog
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Dec 1, 2004, 11:07 AM
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Re: new Hueco Tanks bouldering guidebook [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I just have a problem "gettin my mojo" hanging out with a guard

hummmm, I don't know who you went on tours with, but having just come back from spending 9 days there, I can tell you that the park does not feel at all like it's 3/4 closed. On the two tours I took during that time I got shown around all the classics by really nice, enthusiastic and awesome climber guides who had several double-digit problems under their belt, hardly people I would even consider as being "guards"!!!
Maybe you need to socialize a little more and be a little more friendly to people or something???
BTW, the new guide book rocks, super easy to use, orient yourself and find boulder problems thanks to all the color pictures, even for someone who's never been to Hueco before.

Oh, and before I forget, Hi Esther!!!


jcinco


Dec 1, 2004, 12:04 PM
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In reply to:
If you are down here long enough to project anything, the only excuses for not being able to work a problem are lack of info and laziness. Let me eliminate the former.
Park HQ: 915-857-1135
Rock Ranch: 915-855-0142
Now there's only one. Quicherbichin. Or climb elsewhere. 8^)

This is the internet, sis. Bitchin' is what its all about. ;)

I will proudly bitch about the current set-up at Hueco, and then happily climb there at the next possible opportunity.

Just to bitch about the situation more: the volunteer-guide trips are very short if run by park staff. On only one occasion have I ever gotten lucky and scored a volunteer guide who took us out for the whole day (ex-military dude. What's his name??). You forgot to mention that the Rock Ranch is a commercial operation, guided trips for which are very pricey. I think we'll just have to agree to disagree on what it means to be "open".


photon


Dec 2, 2004, 7:18 AM
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As far as the guidebook goes, so many new problems have been done since the old book it's nice to have an update on that. However, I'd say that most of the problems easier than V10 that aren't in the old guidebook, probably aren't worth doing compared to the one's that are. The plumbs were picked.

don't think ester bouldered at Hueco in the good old days, if she did she would understand why people who did boulder there in that era think the present system sucks. A lot of us went to Hueco for more than just bouldering. It was somewhere in the middle of nowhere, a place to get away from everything, like an already over restricted society . Being in the park bouldering with your bros, farting when you wanted to, was part of the attraction. While the bouldering never changed, it's still one the top 5 areas in the world, the park policy persuades a lot of folks who have already been there a lot to go somewhere else. If you haven't been though, you got to go, steep bouldering just doesn't get any better than Hueco


grayhghost


Dec 2, 2004, 7:34 AM
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Hueco has restrictions on climbing because
climbers abused the freedom granted them.
You can argue all you want about which
user group does the most damage and who
should suffer the consequences but the history
will not be rewriten.
That being said, Hueco is still a world class
destination, evidenced by the world class
climbers who frequent it.
As for Matt's new book, it rocks. The extra
price paid for color printing is well worth it.
Now get of your duff and crank some
over-graded juggy roof problems.


estherator


Dec 2, 2004, 5:09 PM
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In reply to:
Being in the park bouldering with your bros, farting when you wanted to, was part of the attraction.

You too? Why are you guys so gassy? :lol:

Hi Theo! Back in TN? Next time you're back, I'll take you on a tour.

And yes, there are a few sandbagged problems around here. At Hueco, they're all V4!

Pull, Drink, Rest, Repeat


capttrad


Dec 2, 2004, 5:53 PM
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We must just be old, and remember what America was like when people actually had freedoms. I know I don't need the babysitter TP says I need. Hopefully the Tiqua's plan will pull us back into a free hueco, if it gets done. Sorry, just mine and many other locals OP.


jcinco


Dec 2, 2004, 6:08 PM
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In reply to:
Hueco has restrictions on climbing because
climbers abused the freedom granted them.
You can argue all you want about which
user group does the most damage and who
should suffer the consequences but the history
will not be rewriten.

That's quite the bit of revisionist history you've got there.

Even if that were true, the solution is then to shut the whole place down for everybody????

That attitude sounds strangely familiar:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...topic=76069&forum=54


fracture


Dec 2, 2004, 6:48 PM
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In reply to:
However, I'd say that most of the problems easier than V10 that aren't in the old guidebook, probably aren't worth doing compared to the one's that are.

There's a couple really good sub-V10 problems in the New Meadow, which isn't in the old book....


estherator


Dec 4, 2004, 11:44 AM
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MMN...Lobster Claw...

As for Hueco becoming a free for all again, highly unlikely. The problems that are closed due to devegetation/erosion may reopen eventually, but it won't be next year or anything. As for the others, the rock art and Native American burial areas-not a chance. Maybe just before the earth hurtles into the sun :wink:


curt


Dec 4, 2004, 12:11 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Hueco has restrictions on climbing because
climbers abused the freedom granted them.
You can argue all you want about which
user group does the most damage and who
should suffer the consequences but the history
will not be rewriten.

That's quite the bit of revisionist history you've got there.

Utter bullshit is more like it. Texas Parks merely took the opportunity to restrict bouldering in the park because they could. The triggering event for the access restrictions were increasing incidents of vandalism to the native rock art by little gang-bangers from El Paso--something climbers clearly were not participating in. TX Parks knew this quite well, but clamped down on bouldering and climbing anyway.

Hey Esther, are you a guide at Hueco now?

Curt

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